jck239

Hi,

I have just bought a 88 spec series 2 RST. Completely standard apart from some crappy chrome bits under the engine bay.

1st off, It seams to run really hot. It has a chrome header tank (which i hate) and it always has loads of pressure in. Would that cause it? However the heaters are never very hot. I was sat in traffic for 5 mins and it went straight to red

2nd it takes ages to start. It splutters then will eventually come into life after a few turns and feathering of the throttle.

Also the fuel pump packed up today (2 days of ownership ) it was making a really loud buzzing noise and no doesnt seam to work. Does anyone know of any good places to buy the fuel pumps from.

Im a real n00b with the CVH engines.

Thanks for your help
Jack

1.9 xr2 on 40's

i expect you will find after a drive they header will always have plenty of pressure
mien alws did generally cos tehy turbo is superheating teh water that goes thru it so its always over boiling point, no worrys when iys moving but when you stop it bubbles and pressures up

does teh fan work?
if it doeent you can bridge the sender (blue plug on side of stat housing where top rad hose goes) if its bridges and fan dont come on then its fook if its got power goin to it

has it got a big cooler? csn caus heat up when no air is flowing ie in traffic but a good slim fan will fix that
i had a grs on my estate and could do 140mph then less than a mile of slow to my house and would have thr turbo glowing under the car (burning grass too) but the fan always bought it back to where it should be with no hassle

fuel pumps can be had for a score 2nd hand new i think are about a 1'er and tuners can supply, msport delevlopments maybe

the heater matrix coudl be fucker and been bypassed, look on the bulkhead and if you see the pipes fucked with then you have to replace it

cj_rst

You could have an air lock if the heaters are only getting a bit warm. If you're mechanically minded then check the entire cooling system out and the fan as mentioned above. If you're not sure what you're doing then take it to an expert as it'll save you money down the line and the car will run properly

155lee

iTrader: (10)

what colour is the smoke coming from the exhaust if any?could be the head gasket.is it using water?
i got a pump off ebay for Ł47 brand new,the seller seemed to have a few of them 2 months ago.

jck239

Thanks everyone. I have tried to bleed the cooling system but the water level doenst seam to drop. I think the matrix might be blocked

There is no smoke coming out the back. the water level doesnt drop and it doesnt seam to be using any water.

boothy

iTrader: (14)

try bypassing your matrix join the pipes together then minght help you find out

mr_joe0606

iTrader: (1)

Get a motor sport developments fan switch and thermostat my fans come on just above half way. Sorry not read all the thread am up a ladder lol

joe

ZTSI

sounds like something is blocking the water, is the water being pumped round do you know ( waterpump broken? ) like most rst my fez ran really hot, i changed the thermostat and put a bigger std rad in, and a little water wetter. and well was never a prob again.
i would say fit a std header tank, not a fan of metal ones, I THINK( maybe wrong) that the metal with keep the water hotter plus you can see whats going on with the water better.

jck239

ill get onto it today
Now thats dedication!

the water seams like its being pumped around. When the car is on the move the temp doesnt get near the M on the temp guage. It stays near the bottom.

I have found a replacement fuel pump for Ł25

dave_s2_rst

iTrader: (2)

The water pump has a tiny hole at the bottom of it and if the seals on the water pump were to go it will begin to piss out there.

Check your carpets under the dash for dampness incase the matrix has gone - equally you could simply by pass this to see if it makes a difference.

The msd fan switch and thermo is a great mod and well worthwhile!


get your fuelling/timing checked as it may be all out - I often use grove garage in romford to get my motor sorted.

Headgasket failure will obviously mix oil and water so keep and eye on the oil cap, dipstick, header tank for mayo build up.

TMC225Y

I would replace thermostat and give the heater and radiator a good flush with a hose. If the gauge seems to indicate higher than the temp the engine is, someone may have fitted the wrong gauge sender. Different resistances available for different engines. Check the fan comes on in good time, if not fit new fan switch. Make sure the rad has no cold patches, and that half the fins haven't rotted away. You could fit a cooler thermostat, maybe about 78-80 degrees. Don't run without one, the engine needs it for correct circulation of coolant.

Ebay cheapest for pumps, genuine Bosch ones been about Ł100 for years. If the old pump has been noisy, it may have been drawing too much current. This can overheat the fuel pump relay, worth checking for external melting around pins, it's quite common.

faisal

why not put a cossie pump in it and then not worry later when up ing the power ifff udo lol . sounds like a air lock to me try blleeding iit again. mine did same got it bleeded after a pipe burst. never happened again

jck239

its my daily drive (probs a mistake using a 22yr old car) so I needed it up and running ASAP.

Ive replaced the pump now and it seams to pull a lot better, before the power would peek around 4.5k but now it pulls very happily all the way up to the limiter.

Rob_DOHC

iTrader: (4)

Standard mfi pumps are well up to the job mate, people use them for well over 200bhp,

As said above i would check the gauge sender is the correct jobbie, they are colour coded.

The metal header tank will have nothing to do with anything, but check/replace the header tank cap (cheap), replace the thermostat, check your fan is cutting in etcetc, usual stuff really, bit suspcious about your heater being cool though, i remember mine being really good....

Then take it to some one for a good set up, you will be amazed at the difference this will make, will sort your starting issue out too.


Good luck!

Rob,

cj_rst

Yeah sounds like a heater matrix problem or you still have an air lock, when bleeding did you squeeze the top hose to make sure the water was circulating through the rad etc. If there's trapped air the water won't circulate properly and overheat.

If your car runs cold when on the move then you need a new thermostat. They're only pennies and easy to change. Plus it means you've got to drop the water, refill and bleed which may sort your heaters out too.

Buy a standard header tank while your at it - when you sell the metal one you'll make the money back you spent on a standard header, thermostat + antifreeze anyway!