S2 not boosting at all!!!!???
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Hi Guys!
Having a little trouble with my scort!
Couple of months back i had a little front ender
not serious only cracked the bumper and done the rad... ive oviously changed the rad (ally) and i got new boost hoses (old ones looked tatty) and now she wont boost up at all! Its like driving a n/a 1600. I know it could have been coincidence but i changed the ovious like plugs leads and brought a grp a coil. After closer inspection i saw a small hairline crack on the exhaust manifold and it was blowing... therefore i thought thats the reason its no boosting, but ive now replaced this and still now joy! ![tiff](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/punchballs.gif)
Anyone got any ideas what it could be?
CheeRS
Matt
Having a little trouble with my scort!
Couple of months back i had a little front ender
![Wall](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/wall.gif)
![tiff](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/punchballs.gif)
Anyone got any ideas what it could be?
CheeRS
Matt
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I did give this a good look over when stripped out...couldnt see any visable cracks? I think ill pressure test it. Whats the best way to do this?
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no not with water. Its got loads of oil init and it wont like loads of water being dumped in there for no reason.
The best way would be to put an air line into the boost pipe and seal it best you can. I normally use a hard plastic cup which fits into the boost pipe with a trye valve on top. I just listen for air leaks and use water with fairy liquid and squrit some if i think there is a leak, if so bubbles will appear from the leaking air.
If you have an MFi system then its unlikely that its an air leak as it wouldnt run very nice at all if it did at all. Unless its been molested to run with the air leak.
Is the actuator connected and the pipes all ok with no splits etc.
The best way would be to put an air line into the boost pipe and seal it best you can. I normally use a hard plastic cup which fits into the boost pipe with a trye valve on top. I just listen for air leaks and use water with fairy liquid and squrit some if i think there is a leak, if so bubbles will appear from the leaking air.
If you have an MFi system then its unlikely that its an air leak as it wouldnt run very nice at all if it did at all. Unless its been molested to run with the air leak.
Is the actuator connected and the pipes all ok with no splits etc.
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no not with water. Its got loads of oil init and it wont like loads of water being dumped in there for no reason.
The best way would be to put an air line into the boost pipe and seal it best you can. I normally use a hard plastic cup which fits into the boost pipe with a trye valve on top. I just listen for air leaks and use water with fairy liquid and squrit some if i think there is a leak, if so bubbles will appear from the leaking air.
If you have an MFi system then its unlikely that its an air leak as it wouldnt run very nice at all if it did at all. Unless its been molested to run with the air leak.
Is the actuator connected and the pipes all ok with no splits etc.
The best way would be to put an air line into the boost pipe and seal it best you can. I normally use a hard plastic cup which fits into the boost pipe with a trye valve on top. I just listen for air leaks and use water with fairy liquid and squrit some if i think there is a leak, if so bubbles will appear from the leaking air.
If you have an MFi system then its unlikely that its an air leak as it wouldnt run very nice at all if it did at all. Unless its been molested to run with the air leak.
Is the actuator connected and the pipes all ok with no splits etc.
Its still running on MFI yes and its idles and runs fine. Yeh double checked everything, Brand new boost hoses, ive check all actuator pipes etc and its connected.
Starting to confuse me now...
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Ill check that after the fmic then. Its not a std actuator its alot bigger and is made from billet ally, has a universal turbos sticker on it, any idea?
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That picture dont look like its from an rst, the wastegate penny is located in the removable cast that the downpipe bolts onto, which dont involve sending the turbo off as that will cost you a packet, but you will most probably need to use oxy blow torch to heat up the nuts as they will most defo break the studs if you try to remove the wategate housing without heat. if you need a new wategate cast i got 2 here PM me if your interested
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i havent touched the actuator ive only taken the elbow off to check everything was ok, wastegate was shut and all looks fine.
Thats why i find it weird, it drives like a n/a engine not boost at all!
Surly if it was a split hose or anything it would still try and boost and just hiss?
Anyone got any ideas?
Thats why i find it weird, it drives like a n/a engine not boost at all!
Surly if it was a split hose or anything it would still try and boost and just hiss?
Anyone got any ideas?
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check your timming, MFI leaks.
you may think, eh.. but RSTurbo MFI engines always, always play up. could be fine one day, the following it could not boost, or run, or whatever. but should if done correctly.
as most have said and MrOddkid.
you may think, eh.. but RSTurbo MFI engines always, always play up. could be fine one day, the following it could not boost, or run, or whatever. but should if done correctly.
as most have said and MrOddkid.
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