RSTurboSI

iTrader: (1)

As title, this crops up more times than anything else within this forums.


Ok so you're CVH Engine wont start. Fire up.
Here goes. what you need to know


The first most common problem that the CVH suffer with are. Fuel & Spark like any other engine that has been produced. Start off with removing the spark plugs to make sure there is fuel getting into the cylinders to fire up the engine. Once you have removed them one by one, check they are wet and have fuel within them, clean them up or buy new ones. Remove the plug and and place into a ht lead then onto the body work of the car and place your head out the door, stand up and crank over the engine, this should then spark, make sure you can see the HT lead & spark plug. Copy this for all 4 spark plugs and HTleads.

Now you have Fuel and you have spark.

The second most common problem that the CVH suffer with is the meaturning unit. Once you have fitted all plugs back in and made sure that the HT Lead setup is correct 1-3-4-2 remove the air filter and place a flat head screw driver inside the meaturning unit flap, causing the flap to stay open, crank it over two times, and it should make a wired Squeal nose. Replace the air filter and then try fire it up. This should solve the air problem.

What this does is force air through the system and remove any blocked hoses, or air feeds, and then ables you to fire up the CVH engine

Now sometimes when you fiddle with things and start to mess with the engines you don’t notice that you have knocked a plug from somewhere, so start behind the inlet and make sure that the colours match, Brown is fuel, Black is air and blue is cold start. If they are incorrect the CVH will struggle.

Cold morning problems.

The cold start is normally plugged in and puts the correct amount of fuel to fire up the engine, if the engine wont fire up with it placed on, then remove this to add some more fuel into the cylinder to fire up the engine, make sure you place this back on as soon as you have it running, why you ask? Because once this is removed it wont be able to indicate that its running and will carry on chucking more fuel in, and could send your fuel mapping ECU out and then could well run lean, if it runs lean you will have some major problems.

Make sure you do your checks and do them step by step remembering what’s been done, to identify the problems, if you’re not able to do this then make sure you know what’s done, and of course, don’t let lots of people mess with it, you’ll lose track to what’s been done, best way is to send it off or play yourself. So then the starting problem don’t come back.

If your using the Ford tuning book you may not of noticed that the HTlead setup is in correct, which I have had a lot of words with the manufacture



HT lead’s I are incorrect.

As I’m not able to get to my car I cant tell you the setup, but its 1-3-4-2.. the book says so but is incorrect as in the starting and finishing point is not right.
If they are incorrect then you’ll notice it will run lumpy, or it will POP when you try fire the CVH engine up.


Please add your starting helps.

24vcossiemat

handy thread for owners this mate. well done

RSTurboSI

iTrader: (1)

Just problems that i have come across since owning mine in late 2006.
as you know, CVH engines can be a ball ach.

C'mon folk add what you have dsicoverd that would stop the engine from Fireing.

Bar a statermotor.

RSTurboSI

iTrader: (1)

Ok next bit of info

The next part is a start motor. Which would also lead into starting problems.
The problem with starter motors is that they get so hot the insides melt, like a snickers bar inside your pocket, the solenoids can stick or break up inside the starter motor.

Funny enough the starter motor always fails when you are out, or a bit of distance from your home, you normally have AA cover but this time you don’t. Yes you are stupid, but its time to become clever.

If your starter motor is just clicking. Umm wired one ay. Sometimes they do stick and a hammer can relive it and get it cranking.

Before you get the hammer out don’t bother. As you could well damage more than you wanted, and you don’t have a jack to get under.

Check that the cable bolts are tight, as sometimes they come lose over heat. Remove the terminals on your battery as the last thing you want is an shock, and give it a try if you think your hard, because its more than funny.. and hurts.

Once done so and they are tight and its still sticking, clicking. Then get yourself a earth jump lead. Eh? Your having me on right? Nope.

Your starter is frozen and it will soon give up. Get the earth on the brass cable within the starter motor, if you look down from the front of the car, you’ll see it, place it on the brass cable and on the earth on your battery, Turn it once, you’ll see smoke and you’ll see spark, ONLY ONCE! This wont damage your battery of blow up your car, or even more so mess with any cables, this will free the starter up! 100% Fact.


Word up. Always carry some jump leads, tow rope, and some oil, oh and don’t forget your tools. Pref.

10mm spanner, 13 mill and a 19mill. Maybe even a ratchet with 08/14 ect.

You are thinking why a 19? Because if you ever need to check the engine isn’t seased you do it by hand.

RSTurboSI

iTrader: (1)

Bump

mk1trb

tell you what i noticed yesterday, i changed the dizzy on my turbo and put the elads back on the same way they came off but all i got was a loud bang, turns out the leads were wrong for the new dizzy but right for the old, they were 2 sequences out if you get me, never experienced this before but a mate did,

RSTurboSI

iTrader: (1)

strange. But yes ive also done the same as you spent 1 week looking into it, FUCK all on the net, and noone noticed this, even had oli call me a fucking NOB for it, books says one thing. got someone from here to send me a photo of the HTleads and gave it ago,

walla.

Some dissy caps do have a different setup of course some are re-makes, Gen ford ones are the best i say