...... bloody AP CP2000-8 is slipping if I go over about 17-18psi!
Looks like my new wheels are going on hold and it's time to splash on another new clutch!
On a positive note I must be making fairly good power for it to slip as the boost comes in nice and smooth without much of a torque spike (boost was hitting about 21psi and holding around 18-19psi, just before slipping)

Are there any alternatives to the AP CP2000-35?
As that is the best they do before going paddle which I dont want to do!

Karlos.

PS... it is fucking lively though!!

 

it's paddle time and you know it!!!
they're aren't that bad, bit crappy in traffic, but i've know non paddles to be just as bad e.g. alfa gtv 3.0 v6, heavy fooker as standard.

you should be happy, you've got to be 220-230bhp now.

 

The Cp2000-35 is actually their highest rated clutch for the rst.....the paddle plate makes no difference as regards what torque they can handle. I actually spoke to Ap when i bought one a couple of years ago now and was told i could have the 2000-35 with a paddle plate if i so wished but it would be no better so to speak than the organic plate they use in that clutch as it's the cover that makes the difference. For the record i've had a -35 in for a couple of years with the car running 250bhp/230ft pounds....pod, brunters, trackdays and never had it slip. Be ideal for the sort of power i imagine you're running and nicer to drive than a paddle.

 

Yeah i've had a paddle before and hated it, the CP2000-35 is rated to 61ftlb more than my current CP2000-8 so that should do it I hope, it's just fucking expensive Ł370+ delivery!!!
Still got plenty more boost to go!!

Oh thats good to here!! Cheers!
The paddle with the same cover will hold more torque because the pressure is spread over the surface area of only the 4 paddles, rather than the whole organic plate, so whoever told you that on the phone is a little off the mark! lol

None the less thats the one i'll go for!! Unless there is a better alternative?

 

Sounds well worth the effort

 

nice one Karlos get it on the rollers so i can see some proper graphs
wot turbo is it your using?

 

Mapping isnt finished yet Chris69, although now I havent got to map over 17psi (for now) it will speed things up a bit! lol
I'm running a Turbo Technics Stage 2 T3 (36/55) but without cut back blades.
Once i've finished the mapping for upto 17psi i'll get it to Frost Mototrsport for a power run, they are my closest Dyno Dynamics RR and only Ł25!

 

karlos i have the AP 4 paddle and once its bedded in its not that bad at all tbh

 

Karlos i think there is something wrong with your clutch setup.
My cp2000-8 does not slip at all. never slipped even in 21 psi

 

Fair play mate but I dont want 'not that bad' I want it all good! lol
It's my daily drive and I do a lot of town driving mostly.

I doubt it, there isnt much to go wrong on a clutch and it was fine with running 185lb/ft @ 11psi but now i'm up at 17-19psi and ???lb/ft it's not up to the job!
Remeber it is only rated to 169lb/ft of torque, I know AP underate them a fair bit but still!

I know you are running a CP2000-8 and 250lb/ft but rolling roads can vary by 20-30lb/ft easy so might be closer to my figure?

 

it sholdn't be slipping at that boost. Rear oil seal may be weeping onto the clutch.

 

I agree with rick. Because i bet i have currently more power & torque than karlos and my clutch has never slipped

 

I have the 2000-35 fitted too.Fit and forget.Had no problem when I had 300ft/lb's.But don't have as much torque now,but cope's with anything I throw at it on track.I hate fitting clutch's,hence why I like the fit and forget from the -35.Regards,Micky

 

It's possible
How easy are they to change if i'm doing the clutch, or do I need the crank out? Cant picture it at the moment.

You may be right... I wont know until i take it out in a few weeks.

Yeah it's what i'll get, as you say fit and forget! I'm never going to make any where near 300ftlb.

 

If you're gonna do the rear crank seal at the same time from personal experience i'd change the housing too to make sure it definately ain't gonna leak....you can still get them new from ford too You don't need the crank out, the seal sits in the crankseal housing which bolts to the block fitting over then end of the crank if you can picture that.

 

Hi mate ive got the crank seal tool if you get stuck u can borrow it, as it stops the seal catching on the edge of the crank. let me know what clutch u get as i need one n'all and im undecided weather to get another paddle or the high tourqe one ur on about

 

Cheers Rob!
That would be handy if it is leaking, wont know till the gearbox is off and I can see though!
My thinking is... it's my daily drive so Organic all the way, i've done paddle before and hated it.

Excellent cheers!

 

It's very easy to change the seal once the flywheel is off. The -35 is a very good clutch, but it needs to be treated like a paddle in that the flywheel must be skimmed before fitting it, otherwise it can judder a little. You should also keep a spare clutch cable with you, as it's a heavy cover - i went through 3..

 

Cool thanks!
I keep a spare clutch cable with me now, as i've had one snap before! lol

 

I can 2nd that lol, the pedal is alot heavier than it ever was with previous standard ap4 paddle clutches. Snaps the plastic mk5 quadrants for a pastime lol

 

Anyone know of a stronger cable?

 

I've never snapped a cable to be honest but i'd get a metal quadrant for the pedal conversion if you haven't already!

 

not that i know of ! why don't you just do a simple hydraulic conversion on it ??
no more plastic quadrants no more cables and a much lighter clutch peddle.

 

Pedal conversion is done with an alloy quadrant

Nice idea but are they really that simple, what would I need and how is it done?

 

i done it about 4 years ago it wasn't that hard to do

i may still have some pic's

 

If you have that would be handy! What car did you rob the parts from?

 

i just used a universal master and slave cylinder,and made up some brackets.it was a rear engined m3 fezz.

 

That looks easy! Any pics of the pedal setup?

So I could use (for example) something like these......

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Honda-Civic-CR...d=p3286.c0.m14
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Universal-3-4-...d=p3286.c0.m14

Make up some brakets, and run a pipe between them, job done?

 

i will have to have a look, the master and the slave have to be matched.

 

i used this one the other week on a escort rst,really easy to fit, you just need to drill a 2" hole next the the one for you brakes on the bulk head and then drill a 8mm hole in the peddle 55mm down from the pivot point and use a m8x40 bold and the clevis pin in this link .then you need a slave cylinder job done.

http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product...ducts_id=10439

 

Oh ok! Cheers!
link? lol

 

u had this on the rollers yet karlos?

 

No mate not yet, got another 5psi or so to map in once i've fitted the new clutch!

 

wot spec is your bottom end Karlos?

 

Standard rebuilt mate, but with ARP rod bolts and ACL bearings/shells, so good for around 240ish safely

 

Is me or could you be going a bit over that with a good map and 21/22psi
was just looking at the rest of your spec and wondering.
just wouldn't want you to put a new clutch in and then the bottom end deciding it doesn't like a few extra psi.....

 

Well a Stage 2 T3 is on it's knees at around 230-240ish so should be alright mate!

 

should be interesting to see wot you can get out of it then
you looking for 21/22psi held with a bit of spike or you just gonna see wot it'll do?

 

I'd like to run as much as I can really, just a case of seeing what the turbo can do........ if it can hold 25psi then i'll run 25psi if it can only hold 20psi then thats what i'll run! lol
So long as i'm not detonating, my ACT's are not too high, and i'm not lean it's all good!!

 

your standard bottom end will be a ticking time bomb @25psi lol.