help!
hi, im helping a mate rebuild a cvh hes just bought.iv just stripped it and found the block face to be in a bit of a bad way!!!it seems to be fairly worn between the bores.i was thinking of getting it skimmed but it looks like its been skimmed a few times already!so does anyone know of a good multi-layer gasket he could use or how i could measure the block??or any other ideas??
forgot to mention the head face isnt great but has also had the hell skimmed out it!!but should be ok with abit of wet+dry!!!would low comp pistons be a way to go or hes thinking of buying a used engine off ebay but im not sure thats guna b any better!!
Take the block and head to a local engineers and get them to meassure it up and see if they are any good or not.
Low comp is a big waste of time unless you want silly power (eg:300bhp), will make it more laggy off boost.
Low comp is a big waste of time unless you want silly power (eg:300bhp), will make it more laggy off boost.
local engineer has got the head and says its pretty f***ed!hes done quite abit with cvhs and says its one of the worst hes seen
im just cleanning up the block when i noticed its state!dont really wana go low comp due to lag and cost!its only going to be a standard re-build.
was wondeing would a decompression plate be an idea?i havnt much experiance with cvhs so any ideas welcome

im just cleanning up the block when i noticed its state!dont really wana go low comp due to lag and cost!its only going to be a standard re-build.
was wondeing would a decompression plate be an idea?i havnt much experiance with cvhs so any ideas welcome
Lowering the compression is as I said above pointless, it has the same effect as fitting low comp pistons and will give you more lag!
It will be like driving a car thats done 250'000 miles on the same piston rings!
It will be like driving a car thats done 250'000 miles on the same piston rings!
as above, you only run low comp when you've reached maximum power for a set engine potential, i've run over 200bhp on standard internals, as reliable as any other engine i've run too.
low comp is more laggy as said, plus uses more fuel also, basically needs loads more boost to get the best from them.
find a good known complete engine and fit it, you can spend a lot to sort a bottom end plus gaskets etc. just get a working engine for around Ł400 ready to roll.
low comp is more laggy as said, plus uses more fuel also, basically needs loads more boost to get the best from them.
find a good known complete engine and fit it, you can spend a lot to sort a bottom end plus gaskets etc. just get a working engine for around Ł400 ready to roll.
For Ł400 i'd rebuild!!
Shells/Bearings Ł80, Gasket Set/Bolts Ł50, Rings Ł85, Hone Ł50-Ł100?, Oil pump Ł25, Water pump Ł20.
If you want to do top end as well then add another Ł90 for a cam and lifters.
Job done!
Shells/Bearings Ł80, Gasket Set/Bolts Ł50, Rings Ł85, Hone Ł50-Ł100?, Oil pump Ł25, Water pump Ł20.
If you want to do top end as well then add another Ł90 for a cam and lifters.
Job done!
Last edited by Karlos G; Aug 10, 2009 at 09:02 PM.
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for Ł400 i'd want a solid engine though, head and all.
not much in it i know, but then you've got a bottom end to work with for the future too and spare head for porting etc.
not much in it i know, but then you've got a bottom end to work with for the future too and spare head for porting etc.
iv sorted all gaskets ,bearings and most other internals i just need to find a good block and head to put all the bits in!!!altho if the block is none in then maybe its a sign for zvh!!!!!!!!!!!!!
as above, you only run low comp when you've reached maximum power for a set engine potential, i've run over 200bhp on standard internals, as reliable as any other engine i've run too.
low comp is more laggy as said, plus uses more fuel also, basically needs loads more boost to get the best from them.
find a good known complete engine and fit it, you can spend a lot to sort a bottom end plus gaskets etc. just get a working engine for around Ł400 ready to roll.
low comp is more laggy as said, plus uses more fuel also, basically needs loads more boost to get the best from them.
find a good known complete engine and fit it, you can spend a lot to sort a bottom end plus gaskets etc. just get a working engine for around Ł400 ready to roll.

Do we really need to have an argument about going low comp making an engine drive less responsive off boost?? 
If you lower the compression of an engine from standard it will make less power/torque off boost than it did before, IMO this is not debatable! Even more so on a MFI RST where you cannot compensate for it a little with good mapping.
It's only done to allow bigger boost pressure to be run if your chasing big bhp figures, otherwise it's best to maintain as higher CR as possible....IMO!
If you lower the compression of an engine from standard it will make less power/torque off boost than it did before, IMO this is not debatable! Even more so on a MFI RST where you cannot compensate for it a little with good mapping.
It's only done to allow bigger boost pressure to be run if your chasing big bhp figures, otherwise it's best to maintain as higher CR as possible....IMO!
Last edited by Karlos G; Aug 11, 2009 at 07:26 AM.
Do we really need to have an argument about going low comp making an engine drive less responsive off boost?? 
If you lower the compression of an engine from standard it will make less power/torque off boost than it did before, IMO this is not debatable! Even more so on a MFI RST where you cannot compensate for it a little with good mapping.
It's only done to allow bigger boost pressure to be run if your chasing big bhp figures, otherwise it's best to maintain as higher CR as possible....IMO!
If you lower the compression of an engine from standard it will make less power/torque off boost than it did before, IMO this is not debatable! Even more so on a MFI RST where you cannot compensate for it a little with good mapping.
It's only done to allow bigger boost pressure to be run if your chasing big bhp figures, otherwise it's best to maintain as higher CR as possible....IMO!

It's not BS, as I said above if you lower the compression of an engine from standard it will make less power/torque off boost than it did before.
The actual time it takes to spool up as you say will depend on the overall spec of the engine and turbo etc.. but if you drop the CR making the engine less responsive, dropping gas velocity, taking longer to reach the RPM at which the turbo makes peek boost (or even start to spool for that matter) it will make it laggier!
All i'm trying to point out to the guy is that it will feel slower, less responsive, laggier, off boost if he drops the CR and is not needed unless he's going for really big BHP.
Do you not agree?
The actual time it takes to spool up as you say will depend on the overall spec of the engine and turbo etc.. but if you drop the CR making the engine less responsive, dropping gas velocity, taking longer to reach the RPM at which the turbo makes peek boost (or even start to spool for that matter) it will make it laggier!
All i'm trying to point out to the guy is that it will feel slower, less responsive, laggier, off boost if he drops the CR and is not needed unless he's going for really big BHP.
Do you not agree?
the thing is iv got all the things for a re-build but i have no block or head to build the bits to!!!
i know that if i lower the cp it wil make it lag more as said above.its not a big power build. but the thought behind low comp pistons was then i could skim the head and block so would even out the cp!but the head wont take anymore skimming so i cant do that!!
Cams are the same in all injection 1.6cvh's mate (Ford only has one part number for all), but yes the block will need a hole drilling if it isnt a turbo block.
It's not BS, as I said above if you lower the compression of an engine from standard it will make less power/torque off boost than it did before.
The actual time it takes to spool up as you say will depend on the overall spec of the engine and turbo etc.. but if you drop the CR making the engine less responsive, dropping gas velocity, taking longer to reach the RPM at which the turbo makes peek boost (or even start to spool for that matter) it will make it laggier!
All i'm trying to point out to the guy is that it will feel slower, less responsive, laggier, off boost if he drops the CR and is not needed unless he's going for really big BHP.
Do you not agree?
The actual time it takes to spool up as you say will depend on the overall spec of the engine and turbo etc.. but if you drop the CR making the engine less responsive, dropping gas velocity, taking longer to reach the RPM at which the turbo makes peek boost (or even start to spool for that matter) it will make it laggier!
All i'm trying to point out to the guy is that it will feel slower, less responsive, laggier, off boost if he drops the CR and is not needed unless he's going for really big BHP.
Do you not agree?
anyway am out,until u go away and test a std engine,low comp it then compare the differences then am not going to comment again


