Guys running 300+ bhp how are you putting down the power?
20-07-2009, 09:48 AM
#81
focus rs 1672
i dnt see anyone disagreein what am sayin in this post
rick,christian,crazycage,jamierst,rs enthuasist to name a few do with u
anyway this is my last post as its obvious u chat shit and havent a clue,uve not brought any useful info to this post except ur opinion of u turbo u used that u dnt know spec of,so bonjour
20-07-2009, 10:51 AM
#82
good bushes or rose joints on all moving suspension parts will make a big difference, good suspension setup, lsd (take your pick here) and very good tyres.
don't be tempted to buy cheap, i've done this all too much and packing 200bhp is hard work on crap rubber, 300bhp is impossible.
i've just ordered new toyo's, fast wear, great grip.
don't be tempted to buy cheap, i've done this all too much and packing 200bhp is hard work on crap rubber, 300bhp is impossible.
i've just ordered new toyo's, fast wear, great grip.
20-07-2009, 12:59 PM
#83
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i dnt see anyone disagreein what am sayin in this post
rick,christian,crazycage,jamierst,rs enthuasist to name a few do with u
anyway this is my last post as its obvious u chat shit and havent a clue,uve not brought any useful info to this post except ur opinion of u turbo u used that u dnt know spec of,so bonjour
rick,christian,crazycage,jamierst,rs enthuasist to name a few do with u
anyway this is my last post as its obvious u chat shit and havent a clue,uve not brought any useful info to this post except ur opinion of u turbo u used that u dnt know spec of,so bonjour
i asked the question on how to handle 300bhp on an rs turbo.
somehow instead of given some sound advice all you have doen is try to tell me the tuner setup my car wrong!
it seems to me that you are just trying to make something out of nothing!
Ore-voir!
20-07-2009, 01:05 PM
#84
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good bushes or rose joints on all moving suspension parts will make a big difference, good suspension setup, lsd (take your pick here) and very good tyres.
don't be tempted to buy cheap, i've done this all too much and packing 200bhp is hard work on crap rubber, 300bhp is impossible.
i've just ordered new toyo's, fast wear, great grip.
don't be tempted to buy cheap, i've done this all too much and packing 200bhp is hard work on crap rubber, 300bhp is impossible.
i've just ordered new toyo's, fast wear, great grip.
geometry set
polybushes to all suspension and anti's
koni kit
yoko s drive tyres wanted toyo r888 but they dont do the size
steering rack ends rose jointed
new bushes to coloum
strut braces
standard lsd but will be upgrading to atb diff with mtzx75 box soon.
is there anything i can add to this?
20-07-2009, 04:43 PM
#85
you could add a staged boost controller to keep it from spinning in lower gears by means of a switch on either gear lever or using a microswitch or two on the selector setup.
equal length drive shafts to help wth torque steer/wheel spin.
uprated anti-roll bars on the front and rear that are stiffer than the standard stuff.
more/less castor on the front wheels, less camber to give maximum road contact, but this would make cornering worse.
get off a diet and plant some weight on.
equal length drive shafts to help wth torque steer/wheel spin.
uprated anti-roll bars on the front and rear that are stiffer than the standard stuff.
more/less castor on the front wheels, less camber to give maximum road contact, but this would make cornering worse.
get off a diet and plant some weight on.
20-07-2009, 05:58 PM
#86
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you could add a staged boost controller to keep it from spinning in lower gears by means of a switch on either gear lever or using a microswitch or two on the selector setup.
equal length drive shafts to help wth torque steer/wheel spin.
uprated anti-roll bars on the front and rear that are stiffer than the standard stuff.
more/less castor on the front wheels, less camber to give maximum road contact, but this would make cornering worse.
get off a diet and plant some weight on.
equal length drive shafts to help wth torque steer/wheel spin.
uprated anti-roll bars on the front and rear that are stiffer than the standard stuff.
more/less castor on the front wheels, less camber to give maximum road contact, but this would make cornering worse.
get off a diet and plant some weight on.
and running stiffer anti roll bars would that make benefits to the traction or just handling?
21-07-2009, 03:05 PM
#92
The fastest cars so far to 60 and 100 so far didnt use anything but standard shafts ie paul roberts fezzy and my escort so i dont know what all the fuss is about tbh.At around 9.6 and 9.7 to a ton you carnt argue with that .
Last edited by Tim; 21-07-2009 at 03:07 PM.
lol
22-07-2009, 12:46 AM
#98
Advanced PassionFord User
All the best,Micky
22-07-2009, 05:18 AM
#100
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Not an RS turbo i know but i am fwd with 535 hp 
i would say buy the best tyres/coilover setup you can afford, i first ran my Volvo 850 with 478 hp and koni fsd shocks and eibachs it was truly shocking and dangerous to drive hard,i chnaged to KW race two way adjustable coilovers and just ordered a set of dunlop do3j's and cannot wait to try it
Russ
i would say buy the best tyres/coilover setup you can afford, i first ran my Volvo 850 with 478 hp and koni fsd shocks and eibachs it was truly shocking and dangerous to drive hard,i chnaged to KW race two way adjustable coilovers and just ordered a set of dunlop do3j's and cannot wait to try it Russ
22-07-2009, 09:45 PM
#101
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Not an RS turbo i know but i am fwd with 535 hp i would say buy the best tyres/coilover setup you can afford, i first ran my Volvo 850 with 478 hp and koni fsd shocks and eibachs it was truly shocking and dangerous to drive hard,i chnaged to KW race two way adjustable coilovers and just ordered a set of dunlop do3j's and cannot wait to try it
Russ
i would say buy the best tyres/coilover setup you can afford, i first ran my Volvo 850 with 478 hp and koni fsd shocks and eibachs it was truly shocking and dangerous to drive hard,i chnaged to KW race two way adjustable coilovers and just ordered a set of dunlop do3j's and cannot wait to try it Russ
23-08-2009, 07:51 AM
#106
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Okay before i had no wheelspin at all after first gear, but now i have mitsu turbo and 21 psi of boost so the 1-2 gears there is so little grip when full throttle that i have to think what to do. 3-4-5 gears i can press full throttle, otherwise it will spin wheels.
My mate offered me 205/50/15 R888 (used) for 150£, should i try those?
There was earlier some talk about is laggy turbo bad thing in traction, i would say it is. My turbo produces full boost at 3500rpm and power comes just then. So traction is gone.
I want to go drive quarter mile maybe next summer, car goes in september to winter garaging.
My mate offered me 205/50/15 R888 (used) for 150£, should i try those?
There was earlier some talk about is laggy turbo bad thing in traction, i would say it is. My turbo produces full boost at 3500rpm and power comes just then. So traction is gone.
I want to go drive quarter mile maybe next summer, car goes in september to winter garaging.
23-08-2009, 07:58 AM
#107
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Okay before i had no wheelspin at all after first gear, but now i have mitsu turbo and 21 psi of boost so the 1-2 gears there is so little grip when full throttle that i have to think what to do. 3-4-5 gears i can press full throttle, otherwise it will spin wheels.
My mate offered me 205/50/15 R888 (used) for 150£, should i try those?
There was earlier some talk about is laggy turbo bad thing in traction, i would say it is. My turbo produces full boost at 3500rpm and power comes just then. So traction is gone.
I want to go drive quarter mile maybe next summer, car goes in september to winter garaging.
My mate offered me 205/50/15 R888 (used) for 150£, should i try those?
There was earlier some talk about is laggy turbo bad thing in traction, i would say it is. My turbo produces full boost at 3500rpm and power comes just then. So traction is gone.
I want to go drive quarter mile maybe next summer, car goes in september to winter garaging.
23-08-2009, 01:45 PM
#111
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23-08-2009, 02:29 PM
#112
gus
nearly finished the inside,rubbed it all back to bare metal by hand
inlet is ready for welding
ill only be buying wiring for it this year now as ive got a few big holidays early next year
nearly finished the inside,rubbed it all back to bare metal by hand
inlet is ready for welding
ill only be buying wiring for it this year now as ive got a few big holidays early next year
23-08-2009, 04:14 PM
#113
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Fook all this talk of 300 bhp is getting me worried as thats the kind of power am headed for out of my 16oo ish cvh windmill, gotech pro x, EFI inlet, 2wd throttle body, dark greens, gt2860rs, steel rods + forged pistons, spankin new atb diff, standard rims + yoko pradas, rose jointed tca's, poly bushes will be fitted but....... what else as dont want a thing that cant be driven??
23-08-2009, 04:39 PM
#114
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Fook all this talk of 300 bhp is getting me worried as thats the kind of power am headed for out of my 16oo ish cvh windmill, gotech pro x, EFI inlet, 2wd throttle body, dark greens, gt2860rs, steel rods + forged pistons, spankin new atb diff, standard rims + yoko pradas, rose jointed tca's, poly bushes will be fitted but....... what else as dont want a thing that cant be driven??
23-08-2009, 05:13 PM
#115
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head spec i aint sure of because the standard original head isnt being used and the replacement head came in the boot of an old rust bucket s2 lol and is new to me with no proof or spec etc, it did have piper cam & vernier (nice pink colour lol) fitted, ports are all opened up and very smooth and non standard what would appear to be stainless steel valves or similar were fitted..........the engine builder Simon from sitech says its all good.
23-08-2009, 05:32 PM
#116
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head spec i aint sure of because the standard original head isnt being used and the replacement head came in the boot of an old rust bucket s2 lol and is new to me with no proof or spec etc, it did have piper cam & vernier (nice pink colour lol) fitted, ports are all opened up and very smooth and non standard what would appear to be stainless steel valves or similar were fitted..........the engine builder Simon from sitech says its all good.
23-08-2009, 05:42 PM
#117
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Thanx, injectors will be good enough for running the engine in and not too much drama to change them out for something else later on as i served my time as a spanner grease monkey but aint no engine builder or guru in the performance stakes, what injectors would u suggest for better fueling?
23-08-2009, 05:47 PM
#118
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Thanx, injectors will be good enough for running the engine in and not too much drama to change them out for something else later on as i served my time as a spanner grease monkey but aint no engine builder or guru in the performance stakes, what injectors would u suggest for better fueling?
it sounds like you have a good chance of getting 300+ from what you have so imo i would not use the 803s , mine where pretty much maxed out on my old cvh at 280hp, some astra vxr injectors will do the job easy and are much cheaper about £80 for the four new.
24-08-2009, 06:36 AM
#119
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your right its no big job to change them over but it will mean you will have to pay for a full remap .
it sounds like you have a good chance of getting 300+ from what you have so imo i would not use the 803s , mine where pretty much maxed out on my old cvh at 280hp, some astra vxr injectors will do the job easy and are much cheaper about £80 for the four new.
it sounds like you have a good chance of getting 300+ from what you have so imo i would not use the 803s , mine where pretty much maxed out on my old cvh at 280hp, some astra vxr injectors will do the job easy and are much cheaper about £80 for the four new.
24-08-2009, 07:57 AM
#120
