Marts

iTrader: (1)

In-car does seem a hell of a lot better way of doing this. When I spoke to the guy that has done all the work on mine recently, he said its a pain cos of getting in and out of the car to do the adjusting..... now for the sake of some extra tubing, adjusting from the comfort of the recaro makes much more sense!

Talking of tubing... copper or braided?

kidsRS

iTrader: (6)

Where do you route them to get them in and out of the car nice and neat?

vroooom ptssssh

2 front outlets on my master cylinder go to the front brakes, one rear blanked off, single line going to the bias valve which is under my rear seat (now thinking thats a bad idea if I need to adjust it for wet/dry, how essential is that?) then out the bias valve to a T piece to both rear wheels....

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

As regards wet/dry settings, i'd just set it for the wet (worst case sceneario) and so long as the fronts lock up first you know your good for the dry! Who really needs that little bit extra breaking at the rear that you can have in the dry compared to the wet?? Waste of time IMO, set it and forget it is what I say that way it can be fitted anywhere and less pipes to run!
I've heard (no actual experince) that really long braided will swell under pressure and give a spoungy feel to your brakes, so should use copper for long lengths.

JamboRS

no mate

so whats the point of having rear brakes that u cant use
u seem to have a theory on everything but it never works in reality,so going by ur theory id have rear brakes when its wet and no rear braking when its dry,not really ideal is it
why do cars have rear brakes then if there not needed,to balance out the braking,try braking with the fronts only and see what happens

vroooom ptssssh

My car's just going to be a road car, will probably never see the track so I dont know how important the 2 settings would be...ideally I wont use it in the wet but im sure i'll get caught out!

Karlos, my braided lines run from M/S to front calipers, the rear line runs from M/S to bulkhead where it joins to copper pipe, the rear of the car is all copper.

Christian and Beccy

iTrader: (14)

Mine is 100% TFE Steel braided pipe and has been for 6-7 years.

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

I heard wrong! lol

Eh? What are you talking about???
What I ment was if you've got them set so they dont lock up first in the wet then they are definately not going to lock up first in the dry are they?!
Like every car is setup out of the factory... balanced!!
The hole point of this mod is that people dont have the 'handbrake' effect when braking hard with rear disc setup's wet or dry!

Marts

iTrader: (1)

I have looked for an underside pic so I could draw on where I think it would all go and work, but I couldn't find one! Going by your pic above, the line goes from the rear outlet, under the car and then pushed thru a drilled and grommeted hole into the valve, then again thru another hole, back under the car, into a t-piece and then to the brakes? Either that or it's thru the bulkhead, under the carpet... But I doubt that. Am I close?

I'm liking the in-car idea more than the bay or hidden approach, but if what karlos says is right about setting in wet only, those other ways are better....

Why do simple thoughts grow into a awkward confusion
All these pics do help tho

JamboRS

by setting up for wet condition ur not gettin the full benefit of the rear brakes when its dry,u could prob bring the backs in more when its dry therefore gettin the full advantage of the set up,as i said i had no troubles with my set up for wet and dry and therefore would do the same again and not put up with a compromise,ideally u would like to have one setting for both as per new cars but thats not how it works,tried tested and experienced by myself

it could be said for high boost low boost,2 settings for difference circumstances,would u then go midway or use low boost as a compromise,no u would get the most by having the 2 settings and using them as u see fit,same as bias valve,theres no compromise when it comes to braking

im sure mines was a drilled hole with a grommet for the incoming pipe and the outgoing came out around the handbrake area,i no longer have the car so cant check for u mate or i would have

T28 RST

I had 300mm discs with standard calipers up front and rear discs with no bias valve, braking was great and it never locked the rears up.

AVA done the rear conversion.

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Thats good to hear! I've got 300mm Focus set up here waiting to go on and was hoping it might be enough to balance it out.

Micky

My car is only used on track,and my bias valve was set up in the dry.Since then I've never had to touch it,and that include's wet trackdays.Regards,Micky

JamboRS

im basing my experience on 4 pots up front davie as thats what i had,cant comment on std front calipers as i never used them therefore never experienced them,so i use my info from what ive experienced and not what ive heard/read/been told
although that said my mate with the white rst had issues on std front and rear discs,but he never drove it hard anyway,still if it was my car id have used a bias valve on it

T28 RST

Marts

iTrader: (1)

OK, its time to laugh at my artistic deficiency.... Is it similar to this?


If not, use this to correct me


Im definately gonna do this now... i have to, i've used to much brain power on it not to

drsrst2zvh

This has got me thinking now i have just bought an entire 2wd set-up for my car i.e 4 pots up front and 2wd reaer disc conversion i take it i dont require a bias valve?

Marts

iTrader: (1)

you are never gonna get a straight forward answer mate. Most are for the valve, others aren't. For the sake of a few quid, it can save more than just a dented wing!

Just re-read the thread and check the similar threads links below... then you decide

Marts

iTrader: (1)

Anyone gonna help me with my poor attempt of art? Please?

JamboRS

u will defo need a bias valve with 4 pots up front

Marts

iTrader: (1)

I got my hands on a new Wilwood Valve now, courtesy of Bryan_RST (thanks mate ) so all i need now is the t-piece and some brake hose lol

S*d it, im getting there slowly Think Im gonna have a mate look at it as he works alongside ATS Euromaster... mates rates innit

JesseT

Are you really sure that you can bias more brakes to the rear when it's dry? I would think of the opposite because of all the weight transfer.

The more grip there is available, the more the fronts can brake, making the rear extremely light under braking.

In wet/snow/ice, the car brakes much more level, which means that you can use more rear bias.

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

lol Now thats an interesting point!?

JamboRS

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spid...t-science.html

similar topic here,though this one actually has people experienced using bias valves and even presents some info to back it up,not like the theorys that go about here.download the spreadsheet,some gd info

T28 RST

Now thats an interesting point

JamboRS

cant be that interesting
this threads gone quiet

Marts

iTrader: (1)

I tried to view it when ya posted it, but was on iPhone, like I am now. Will check it out later....