Dave100e

Ive currently got a S1 RST with the following parts fitted:

T3 hybrid stage 1 turbo
Pace double capacity intercooler
-31 actuator, roughly at 1bar.
Ported + Polished head
Kent cam (CVH 34 i think, but mightve been 32 or 36?)
Group A (i think) Head gasket.
Full stainless system.
K+N filter
Unknown ECU reputably from a 225bhp car. He did mention bayoo or bajoo but i cant be 100%.

What would i need to change to make considerably more power. Im looking in the 275bhp to 300bhp region. Is it a fair target or will it be mega money?

Would it need a new ECU altogether?
Can the standard injection system handle it?
Id need bigger injectors, how big?
Can the Turbo do the job?
Can i wind the boost up a bit instead?

I may fit a FMIC soon anyway with a double fan kit so that wouldnt be needed.

Sorry for the questions, but i dont really know much about these engines, im more used to good old fashioned carbs. Cheers.

matts1

I would say obtaining 300bhp and a genuine 300bhp will take some money mate.

Most items will need uprating, box, clutch, engine internals etc etc.

I would get the car RR'd and see how healthy the lump is, then look to what power you can achieve on what budget and go from there.

As for winding the boost up, i would say don't fek about unless you know what your doing, otherwise there will be a loud bang, and recovery truck and a poorly wallet.

You would be suprised what a well set up car can pull like on 200bhp, again a genuine 200bhp, not someone who has stuck a 195 chip in and claims it to be ruuning that power.

The other thing to consider, is how useable you want it, running big power can lead to a car that is a pig to drive normally and can suffer over heating issues and constant breakage.

If you want bigger power, sell up and buy a cossie or similar that have a bigger more powerful block from the get go.

Charlie Chalk

iTrader: (1)

If you want to keep it a CVH, it'll be big money to get decent power, I'd personally build a Zetec Turbo for your power you want.

Friend of mine just built one, I'd say its 250bhp @ 11psi (base map) and its fucking RAPID! It is in a Fiesta though! But it was a damn site cheaper than a 300bhp CVH would be..

Gearbox (CTS Stage 2 or MTX 6speed) , suspension ( Coilovers or a decent shock, TCA's, Polybushed), brakes (ST170 Conversion,Cossie 4 Pots or something like AP's), will also add up the cost too!

A cossie T3 will push an engine to 300, But I'd personally go for a GT28rs. A FMIC is always a good idea too.

Keep us updated on what you do


When you say carbs, what cars you had before?

Turbocabbie

It would be shit loads of money !!
Start looking at budgets of 5k upwards getting the car to run, hold together and stop.

Dave100e

Chassis wise its spot on. Upgraded clutch and a recent gearbox rebuild. The diff is nice and tight too. Brakes are all upgraded including a rear cossie disc conversion. Spax adjustables all round with some healthy strut braces. Its more then up to the job at the moment.

So if the head and turbo are up to the job would the following list do the job?

Pistons.
Rods.
FMIC.
Bottom end balancing.
Good proper mapping session.
18psi or could it handle more?

If i do go and do it ill want an adjustable boost controller to tame it a bit. I dont mind cars that run a bit shit really. Ive been looking at turbo oil coolers, are they a good idea?

Id very much like a 2wd saff, but im 21, and the best quote i got was Ł2500 and im not paying it on principle that its a total rip off. Ill give it a couple of years before i try again.

Ive had a fair few cars in the last 20 months or so that ive been driving.
1967 Triumph MK1 Vitesse 2 litre
1966 mk1 cortina 1600gt spec track car
1968 MK2 cortina 1300 deluxe
1962 100e popular with an ex rally 2.1 pinto and 5 speed box

So its safe to say im used to my webers by now.

gus

iTrader: (1)

think you may be needing to add a management change to that list also

CliffRS4

iTrader: (1)

Or you could buy my zetec lump with everyting there to slot straight in

Block, GT 30 turbo, tubular ex manifold and exhaust, inlet manifold, P8 ecu with wasted spark, antilag and water injection, wiring loom & injectors etc etc

Made 310 bhp & 276 lb ft torque at 12 psi boost.

Currently running 22 psi of boost. Roughly running 360- 370 bhp. Change the lifters and valve springs and have the mapping finished off and you have yourself 440 bhp.

This can be confirmed by Motorsport Developments as they did the mapping.

Engine has done 4322 miles.

Let me know if you want more details. Pictures and spec etc can be provided

gus

iTrader: (1)

now thats your best option



a proper engine

gus

iTrader: (1)

you might need a more capable gearbox aswell


i might know who has one of those

Turbocabbie

The problem with the gearbox is not the diff, its the often main shaft of bearings which gives up, if you have a standard rebuilt box it will last better than a box with a lot of mile son it but do not expect it to last if you put a lot of power through it with heavy launching.

Although you say the chassis is up to the job, having come from a car which was very similar, from my own personal opinion that is far from up to the job. The car would need poly bushes throughout, a better anti roll bar to say the very least.

A CVH with decent management, steel bottom end can handle more than 18 PSI ( I know because I run more than this myself ) However a decent, reliable high powered CVH will cost you big money.

mart rs

iTrader: (5)

a genuine 300 bhp will cost you a fortune to do it rite mate.

if you stay cvh like i have will take a lot of work,
you will need to ditch the ke for cozworth managment,
steel rods low comp pistons big valve head solid lifters t34 turbo cts box ap clutch ect ect


if you gave your car to a tuner an said give me 300+ bhp your looking at well over 8k

;'( lol

cressy

iTrader: (1)

thats just small change for you thow mate

mart rs

iTrader: (5)

you following me lol

Zetecfiesta

martin whats your erst runnin at the mo, bhp wise? its sam btw from the sheffield meets just incase u dunno who i am! lol you gonna be at donny again this weekend? wouldnt mind anothe rlook at your car

im on cossie managment,
kent cam,
vernier pully,
stage 2 ported n polished head
cosworth racing pistons n rods,
helix cluth,
stage 3 t3
cts gearbox
grs front mount,
alloy rad
2x kenlowe fans
k&n
exhaust airfilter

prob more but i cant remember, its not running yet only got all my sensors together on fri and ive been to busy to get it running.

sara

my mates got a jamsport steel 1600 block built up ready for a head pm if interested same spec as mine and stuart collins on here cheers

sara

oh and im still on a standard box lol it loves it

mart rs

iTrader: (5)

hi mate yes i remember you she running between 300 320 now i ditched the 5th injector an t3 (best thing iv ever done) i wont be at donno this weekend as it was rubbish last year lol i will be on track at mallory tho if your going?

marky_g

im on a stock (very healthy) engine

std air box,
std turbo,
front mount cooler,
piper exhaust
collins chip
water/meth injection
18psi

and it made 186bhp at last dyno

so anything up to 200 aint gonna be mega money after that its steel bottom end and management if u want more about 5/10k for 300 bhp cos you'll want a mental box to take it all

Dave100e

Fair enough. Its going to be expensive. I was planning to build up a drift car aswell but the budget i was looking at for both cars would be spent on this engine alone. Not worth it i dont think, and it could be better spent on another car to go faster.

Just out of interest, what would i be looking at paying for a box up to the job?

It is polybushed all round and it has a great rear brace but i havnt fitted a front one yet. I like the turn in it has at the moment and it doesnt wash out and i dont want to upset that balance by stiffening the front up.

A PM will be sent Cliff S1.

Again out of interest, how would i raise my boost? I know id need to adjust the actuator but would it need a remap too? How much boost would a standard bottom end handle?

gus

iTrader: (1)

a bernie box is about 1400 quid i think


long time since i brought mine

kosman

u tryed classic insurance for a saff? mine is a few hundred quid to insure and im only 25

mart rs

iTrader: (5)

yea a cts stage 2+ is 1400 you can get the odd bargain on here tho,

my standard bottom end was taking 1.7 bar an tailing to 1.5 on a stage 3 t3 giving me around 250.