Turbo best for the Erst?
#2
all depends on the rest of your engine, different turbo for different specs, got to take into account the airflow, how you want the car to drive, fast boosting or loads of boost more lagg etc, different exhaust housing/compressor wheels/etc etc. Speak to vince at cr turbo's and he can spec you one to go with what you want and the rest of your engine
#3
Colossal Pervert
If it's a standard engine/management, and if you intend to keep it 200bhp or less, i'd go for a standard turbo but put a 0.48 exhaust housing on it with a -31 and suitable chip/intercooler.
#5
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#6
Colossal Pervert
I guess that depends if you like doing things properly. The standard turbo gets inefficient over 185bhp, so I prefer to do the right thing and run a larger turbine housing. You're not going to get a genuine 200bhp on a standard engine with a .36
#7
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Thanks for your answeres.
I have a kent cam cvh 34. Im going to build a charge cooler instead of the regular intercooler, but my charge cooler will be more effective than the one on the market. The air intake will be in the front, not in in the engine area. I want cold air in the engine. chiped ecu with upgraded fuel ecu is in the car now.
I was thinking of buying a tubular manifold from the ebay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ford-1-6-CVH-e...3286.m20.l1116 but then I have to use a different turbo.
I want 200 horse power in the end of my building. I have a brand new clutch that is stronger than the original.
Magnesium wheels that doesent weight something at all.
maybe I buy MS in the future too.
br butchi
I have a kent cam cvh 34. Im going to build a charge cooler instead of the regular intercooler, but my charge cooler will be more effective than the one on the market. The air intake will be in the front, not in in the engine area. I want cold air in the engine. chiped ecu with upgraded fuel ecu is in the car now.
I was thinking of buying a tubular manifold from the ebay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ford-1-6-CVH-e...3286.m20.l1116 but then I have to use a different turbo.
I want 200 horse power in the end of my building. I have a brand new clutch that is stronger than the original.
Magnesium wheels that doesent weight something at all.
maybe I buy MS in the future too.
br butchi
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#8
Colossal Pervert
I'd definately go for a .48, and if you intend to go above about 220bhp in the future then i'd seriously consider a larger compressor too (eg, 50 or 55 trim)..
#11
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The best road turbo would be the Stage 2, which gives you a 55 trim 2ed cossie compressor and 360 thrust. These turbos will give 215hp on a std engine other than cam and cooler. If you go for a proper cylinder head, you can ring 240hp out of them, with lots of torque and a nice broad power curve.
#12
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Rick, how about exhaust temps with .36 exhaust housing and this stage 2 compressor wheel..?
What you say if i would drive absolut standard turbo with proper ic and 15 psi of boost.
I have programmable EFI naturally, standard head and cvh 35 cam properly timed.
What you say if i would drive absolut standard turbo with proper ic and 15 psi of boost.
I have programmable EFI naturally, standard head and cvh 35 cam properly timed.
#14
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EGT's rarely over 500C at the down pipe, so 700 ish turbo. It's much the same as running a T34 on a YB ar 33psi, or a 500 T4 engine. You are according to theory out of the turbo's power range. However, in practise it works. I've has my own RST for 9 years, a daily driver untl last March, and it has never melted anything. 0.48's on 1600's are laggy - i know as i've got one and mapped lots. It's just not worth the sacrifices on a 200hp engine.
Antii, exhaust temps aren't worth worrying about once the car is mapped properly on a bar of boost. The std turbo will work at 15psi, but it's working hard, and it's life will be shortened. However, this is what the majority of chipped RST's are, and have been for 20 years. If you can spare the cash, go for a stage 2 turbo. A little more power, and it isn't spinning as fast. Will last too, Turbo Technics are comforable with theirs upto 22psi.
Antii, exhaust temps aren't worth worrying about once the car is mapped properly on a bar of boost. The std turbo will work at 15psi, but it's working hard, and it's life will be shortened. However, this is what the majority of chipped RST's are, and have been for 20 years. If you can spare the cash, go for a stage 2 turbo. A little more power, and it isn't spinning as fast. Will last too, Turbo Technics are comforable with theirs upto 22psi.
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EGT's rarely over 500C at the down pipe, so 700 ish turbo. It's much the same as running a T34 on a YB ar 33psi, or a 500 T4 engine. You are according to theory out of the turbo's power range. However, in practise it works. I've has my own RST for 9 years, a daily driver untl last March, and it has never melted anything. 0.48's on 1600's are laggy - i know as i've got one and mapped lots. It's just not worth the sacrifices on a 200hp engine.
Antii, exhaust temps aren't worth worrying about once the car is mapped properly on a bar of boost. The std turbo will work at 15psi, but it's working hard, and it's life will be shortened. However, this is what the majority of chipped RST's are, and have been for 20 years. If you can spare the cash, go for a stage 2 turbo. A little more power, and it isn't spinning as fast. Will last too, Turbo Technics are comforable with theirs upto 22psi.
Antii, exhaust temps aren't worth worrying about once the car is mapped properly on a bar of boost. The std turbo will work at 15psi, but it's working hard, and it's life will be shortened. However, this is what the majority of chipped RST's are, and have been for 20 years. If you can spare the cash, go for a stage 2 turbo. A little more power, and it isn't spinning as fast. Will last too, Turbo Technics are comforable with theirs upto 22psi.
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