FAO s1 restorers/rebuilders
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FAO s1 restorers/rebuilders
as im away to get all the undercarrage of my s1 removed to restore & clean up & poly bush throughout, i.e. wishbones/rear beam etc im obviosly going to come accross allot of stuborn nuts & bolts & was wondering if these are still availible to buy from ford?
also can you still buy brand new petrol tanks & straps from ford also?
any help would be great
regards smits
also can you still buy brand new petrol tanks & straps from ford also?
any help would be great
regards smits
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You can get the odd genuine ford S1 petrol tanks, but they go for a fair bit on money. You can get non genuine ones for about Ł70 though
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Do yourself a favour and buy them in stainless at your local fasteners. Never will you have a stubborn bolt again
Not sure if Ford sell the tanks still but you can easily get pattern ones for about Ł60
Not sure if Ford sell the tanks still but you can easily get pattern ones for about Ł60
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NOTE!!!!DO NOT USE STAINLESS NUTS AND BOLTS ON SUSPENTION, AND LOAD BEARING PARTS AS THIS COULD BE DANGEROUS!! . When using stainless you have to be carful where you use them as they dont have the tensile strenght of the original ht bolts used. Be very cautious of what you are replacing them with. What i would suggest is to strip down all the bits from underneath the car and take down a selection of bolts you want to replace to your local fasteners and get the corect type of nuts and bolts for the job. You will find most of the important bolts will have 8.8 or 10.5 on the head (This denotes the tensile strenght of the bolt in NM). some if not alot of the nuts and bolts can be replaced in stainless but you have to be aware that some you deffo cannot for safey
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Originally Posted by Turbo-Beal
NOTE!!!!DO NOT USE STAINLESS NUTS AND BOLTS ON SUSPENTION, AND LOAD BEARING PARTS AS THIS COULD BE DANGEROUS!! . When using stainless you have to be carful where you use them as they dont have the tensile strenght of the original ht bolts used. Be very cautious of what you are replacing them with. What i would suggest is to strip down all the bits from underneath the car and take down a selection of bolts you want to replace to your local fasteners and get the corect type of nuts and bolts for the job. You will find most of the important bolts will have 8.8 or 10.5 on the head (This denotes the tensile strenght of the bolt in NM). some if not alot of the nuts and bolts can be replaced in stainless but you have to be aware that some you deffo cannot for safey
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I'm also thinking of giving this a go in the next month or so. Not a job that I'm looking forward to tbh.
I bought a pattern fuel tank about a year ago for Ł55 delivered I think.
I bought a pattern fuel tank about a year ago for Ł55 delivered I think.
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Originally Posted by SafeChav
Originally Posted by Turbo-Beal
NOTE!!!!DO NOT USE STAINLESS NUTS AND BOLTS ON SUSPENTION, AND LOAD BEARING PARTS AS THIS COULD BE DANGEROUS!! . When using stainless you have to be carful where you use them as they dont have the tensile strenght of the original ht bolts used. Be very cautious of what you are replacing them with. What i would suggest is to strip down all the bits from underneath the car and take down a selection of bolts you want to replace to your local fasteners and get the corect type of nuts and bolts for the job. You will find most of the important bolts will have 8.8 or 10.5 on the head (This denotes the tensile strenght of the bolt in NM). some if not alot of the nuts and bolts can be replaced in stainless but you have to be aware that some you deffo cannot for safey
#13
It Wasnt Me!
how much would it cost roughly to replace with normal steel/tensile bolts (every nut bolt and washer for the underside of the car?)
I quite fancy doin an underside resto, my main problem is having no where to do it! cant have the car on axle stands for a week or so on the street while the susp is at the Powder coaters
underside of my car is in pretty good shape, under the layer of oil it seems to be ALL in grey primer so its jus a case of removing parts to renew/powder coat and wiping all the oil/dirt off and painting over it in suitable stuff (was looking at white stoneshield, couple of layers?)
I quite fancy doin an underside resto, my main problem is having no where to do it! cant have the car on axle stands for a week or so on the street while the susp is at the Powder coaters
underside of my car is in pretty good shape, under the layer of oil it seems to be ALL in grey primer so its jus a case of removing parts to renew/powder coat and wiping all the oil/dirt off and painting over it in suitable stuff (was looking at white stoneshield, couple of layers?)
#14
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wow thats a difficult question, iv pretty much now replaced every nut and bolt from under the car but iv bought in bulk due to the discounts i get at my local fasteners. I also had to special order a couple of bolts as ford done a couple of sizes that my fasteners had trouble getting hold of. I would say you could do the underneath for sub Ł50. Its so difficult to remember
P.s Just thought i would mention that most ht bolts are designed to be used only once so most of the bolts should realy be replaced once removed
P.s Just thought i would mention that most ht bolts are designed to be used only once so most of the bolts should realy be replaced once removed
#15
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Turbo-Beal, cheers for that Ive jus remembered my pal wullie restored a 16i to concourse and often (usually before most shows) he'd replace every nut bolt and washer as he used it on the road frequently! i'll see if he can tell me also next time he's on.
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Originally Posted by Turbo-Beal
Originally Posted by SafeChav
Originally Posted by Turbo-Beal
NOTE!!!!DO NOT USE STAINLESS NUTS AND BOLTS ON SUSPENTION, AND LOAD BEARING PARTS AS THIS COULD BE DANGEROUS!! . When using stainless you have to be carful where you use them as they dont have the tensile strenght of the original ht bolts used. Be very cautious of what you are replacing them with. What i would suggest is to strip down all the bits from underneath the car and take down a selection of bolts you want to replace to your local fasteners and get the corect type of nuts and bolts for the job. You will find most of the important bolts will have 8.8 or 10.5 on the head (This denotes the tensile strenght of the bolt in NM). some if not alot of the nuts and bolts can be replaced in stainless but you have to be aware that some you deffo cannot for safey
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Originally Posted by SafeChav
Originally Posted by Turbo-Beal
Originally Posted by SafeChav
Originally Posted by Turbo-Beal
NOTE!!!!DO NOT USE STAINLESS NUTS AND BOLTS ON SUSPENTION, AND LOAD BEARING PARTS AS THIS COULD BE DANGEROUS!! . When using stainless you have to be carful where you use them as they dont have the tensile strenght of the original ht bolts used. Be very cautious of what you are replacing them with. What i would suggest is to strip down all the bits from underneath the car and take down a selection of bolts you want to replace to your local fasteners and get the corect type of nuts and bolts for the job. You will find most of the important bolts will have 8.8 or 10.5 on the head (This denotes the tensile strenght of the bolt in NM). some if not alot of the nuts and bolts can be replaced in stainless but you have to be aware that some you deffo cannot for safey
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Stainless fatigues quickly does it not?
I once saw someone try and fit stainless bolts to their rocker cover on a YB engine. He started getting pissed off when they wouldn't tighten down screaming things about stripping threads in the soft alloy head. So he fitted the original bolts which tightened up. The bolts were rated at the same strength but upon comparison, the stainless bolt had grown almost 5mm.
Do NOT use stainless on load beraring components...
Also the yield strength of stainless bolts is lower that steel.
I once saw someone try and fit stainless bolts to their rocker cover on a YB engine. He started getting pissed off when they wouldn't tighten down screaming things about stripping threads in the soft alloy head. So he fitted the original bolts which tightened up. The bolts were rated at the same strength but upon comparison, the stainless bolt had grown almost 5mm.
Do NOT use stainless on load beraring components...
What About Stainless?
Replacing the OEM-plated steel fasteners on the outside of the bike provides a good-looking, low maintenance cure for rusted nuts and bolts. When contemplating replacing OEM fasteners with stainless steel, remember that common stainless steel does not have the strength of common alloy steels and should not be used for critical, highly stressed applications. The stainless steel also has higher friction than steel does which gives less preload at the same torque. When in doubt, keep the OEM steel stuff for critical applications.
Replacing the OEM-plated steel fasteners on the outside of the bike provides a good-looking, low maintenance cure for rusted nuts and bolts. When contemplating replacing OEM fasteners with stainless steel, remember that common stainless steel does not have the strength of common alloy steels and should not be used for critical, highly stressed applications. The stainless steel also has higher friction than steel does which gives less preload at the same torque. When in doubt, keep the OEM steel stuff for critical applications.
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