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FAO s1 restorers/rebuilders

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Old 14-02-2007, 02:58 PM
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smitsturbo
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Default FAO s1 restorers/rebuilders

as im away to get all the undercarrage of my s1 removed to restore & clean up & poly bush throughout, i.e. wishbones/rear beam etc im obviosly going to come accross allot of stuborn nuts & bolts & was wondering if these are still availible to buy from ford?

also can you still buy brand new petrol tanks & straps from ford also?

any help would be great

regards smits
Old 14-02-2007, 03:16 PM
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gus
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intrested in knowing this also as will be replacing all mu bolts soon


might go for stainless thou


the petrol tank i know cliff s1 got a new one could pm him and ask
Old 14-02-2007, 03:39 PM
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MJC
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You can get the odd genuine ford S1 petrol tanks, but they go for a fair bit on money. You can get non genuine ones for about Ł70 though
Old 14-02-2007, 03:41 PM
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Good post im doing a bit of a restro at the mo and would like some stainless steel one's give it a good freshin up
Old 14-02-2007, 03:43 PM
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JesseT
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Mind that stainless bolts are much weaker and can be dangerous in the wrong places.
Old 14-02-2007, 05:02 PM
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smitsturbo
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Originally Posted by MJC
You can get non genuine ones for about Ł70 though
that'll do me
Old 14-02-2007, 07:01 PM
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SafeChav
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Do yourself a favour and buy them in stainless at your local fasteners. Never will you have a stubborn bolt again

Not sure if Ford sell the tanks still but you can easily get pattern ones for about Ł60
Old 14-02-2007, 07:28 PM
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NOTE!!!!DO NOT USE STAINLESS NUTS AND BOLTS ON SUSPENTION, AND LOAD BEARING PARTS AS THIS COULD BE DANGEROUS!! . When using stainless you have to be carful where you use them as they dont have the tensile strenght of the original ht bolts used. Be very cautious of what you are replacing them with. What i would suggest is to strip down all the bits from underneath the car and take down a selection of bolts you want to replace to your local fasteners and get the corect type of nuts and bolts for the job. You will find most of the important bolts will have 8.8 or 10.5 on the head (This denotes the tensile strenght of the bolt in NM). some if not alot of the nuts and bolts can be replaced in stainless but you have to be aware that some you deffo cannot for safey
Old 14-02-2007, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbo-Beal
NOTE!!!!DO NOT USE STAINLESS NUTS AND BOLTS ON SUSPENTION, AND LOAD BEARING PARTS AS THIS COULD BE DANGEROUS!! . When using stainless you have to be carful where you use them as they dont have the tensile strenght of the original ht bolts used. Be very cautious of what you are replacing them with. What i would suggest is to strip down all the bits from underneath the car and take down a selection of bolts you want to replace to your local fasteners and get the corect type of nuts and bolts for the job. You will find most of the important bolts will have 8.8 or 10.5 on the head (This denotes the tensile strenght of the bolt in NM). some if not alot of the nuts and bolts can be replaced in stainless but you have to be aware that some you deffo cannot for safey
There aren't many bolts that you can't replace, most stainless bolts have the same tensile rating stamped in the head.
Old 14-02-2007, 10:21 PM
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NEWTON
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i got most my new bolts from ford,and a new tank strap
Old 16-02-2007, 12:39 PM
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I'm also thinking of giving this a go in the next month or so. Not a job that I'm looking forward to tbh.

I bought a pattern fuel tank about a year ago for Ł55 delivered I think.
Old 16-02-2007, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by SafeChav
Originally Posted by Turbo-Beal
NOTE!!!!DO NOT USE STAINLESS NUTS AND BOLTS ON SUSPENTION, AND LOAD BEARING PARTS AS THIS COULD BE DANGEROUS!! . When using stainless you have to be carful where you use them as they dont have the tensile strenght of the original ht bolts used. Be very cautious of what you are replacing them with. What i would suggest is to strip down all the bits from underneath the car and take down a selection of bolts you want to replace to your local fasteners and get the corect type of nuts and bolts for the job. You will find most of the important bolts will have 8.8 or 10.5 on the head (This denotes the tensile strenght of the bolt in NM). some if not alot of the nuts and bolts can be replaced in stainless but you have to be aware that some you deffo cannot for safey
There aren't many bolts that you can't replace, most stainless bolts have the same tensile rating stamped in the head.
I beg to differ on the tensile ratings of the stainless nuts and bolts, they have a higher rating than standard steel bolts but not the same as tensile bolts Im just bringing it up cuz i wouldnt want peeps doing a resto on there car with somthing that wasnt adiquate to the job, if you know what i mean im not saying dont use them as it is a great idea but just dont go replacing all the suspention parts with em as imo is a bad idea
Old 16-02-2007, 07:50 PM
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how much would it cost roughly to replace with normal steel/tensile bolts (every nut bolt and washer for the underside of the car?)

I quite fancy doin an underside resto, my main problem is having no where to do it! cant have the car on axle stands for a week or so on the street while the susp is at the Powder coaters

underside of my car is in pretty good shape, under the layer of oil it seems to be ALL in grey primer so its jus a case of removing parts to renew/powder coat and wiping all the oil/dirt off and painting over it in suitable stuff (was looking at white stoneshield, couple of layers?)
Old 16-02-2007, 08:02 PM
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wow thats a difficult question, iv pretty much now replaced every nut and bolt from under the car but iv bought in bulk due to the discounts i get at my local fasteners. I also had to special order a couple of bolts as ford done a couple of sizes that my fasteners had trouble getting hold of. I would say you could do the underneath for sub Ł50. Its so difficult to remember

P.s Just thought i would mention that most ht bolts are designed to be used only once so most of the bolts should realy be replaced once removed
Old 16-02-2007, 08:22 PM
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Turbo-Beal, cheers for that Ive jus remembered my pal wullie restored a 16i to concourse and often (usually before most shows) he'd replace every nut bolt and washer as he used it on the road frequently! i'll see if he can tell me also next time he's on.
Old 17-02-2007, 09:46 AM
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DazC
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Turbo-Beal

Listen to this man. He is talking sense and is correct in every way.
Old 17-02-2007, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbo-Beal
Originally Posted by SafeChav
Originally Posted by Turbo-Beal
NOTE!!!!DO NOT USE STAINLESS NUTS AND BOLTS ON SUSPENTION, AND LOAD BEARING PARTS AS THIS COULD BE DANGEROUS!! . When using stainless you have to be carful where you use them as they dont have the tensile strenght of the original ht bolts used. Be very cautious of what you are replacing them with. What i would suggest is to strip down all the bits from underneath the car and take down a selection of bolts you want to replace to your local fasteners and get the corect type of nuts and bolts for the job. You will find most of the important bolts will have 8.8 or 10.5 on the head (This denotes the tensile strenght of the bolt in NM). some if not alot of the nuts and bolts can be replaced in stainless but you have to be aware that some you deffo cannot for safey
There aren't many bolts that you can't replace, most stainless bolts have the same tensile rating stamped in the head.
I beg to differ on the tensile ratings of the stainless nuts and bolts, they have a higher rating than standard steel bolts but not the same as tensile bolts Im just bringing it up cuz i wouldnt want peeps doing a resto on there car with somthing that wasnt adiquate to the job, if you know what i mean im not saying dont use them as it is a great idea but just dont go replacing all the suspention parts with em as imo is a bad idea
If you look and compare the tensile ratings on the bolts to that of stainless ones you won't find many, if hardly any at all that the stainless ones can't be used for
Old 17-02-2007, 04:44 PM
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I got all my original bolts shot blasted and zinc coated, much cheaper

I even had a new patent tank, but i got that powder coated
Old 17-02-2007, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by SafeChav
Originally Posted by Turbo-Beal
Originally Posted by SafeChav
Originally Posted by Turbo-Beal
NOTE!!!!DO NOT USE STAINLESS NUTS AND BOLTS ON SUSPENTION, AND LOAD BEARING PARTS AS THIS COULD BE DANGEROUS!! . When using stainless you have to be carful where you use them as they dont have the tensile strenght of the original ht bolts used. Be very cautious of what you are replacing them with. What i would suggest is to strip down all the bits from underneath the car and take down a selection of bolts you want to replace to your local fasteners and get the corect type of nuts and bolts for the job. You will find most of the important bolts will have 8.8 or 10.5 on the head (This denotes the tensile strenght of the bolt in NM). some if not alot of the nuts and bolts can be replaced in stainless but you have to be aware that some you deffo cannot for safey
There aren't many bolts that you can't replace, most stainless bolts have the same tensile rating stamped in the head.
I beg to differ on the tensile ratings of the stainless nuts and bolts, they have a higher rating than standard steel bolts but not the same as tensile bolts Im just bringing it up cuz i wouldnt want peeps doing a resto on there car with somthing that wasnt adiquate to the job, if you know what i mean im not saying dont use them as it is a great idea but just dont go replacing all the suspention parts with em as imo is a bad idea
If you look and compare the tensile ratings on the bolts to that of stainless ones you won't find many, if hardly any at all that the stainless ones can't be used for
Well if you look at the suspention components they are all done in 8.8 or 10.5 ht bolts. If you have or are thinking of replacing them with stainless i recon you are asking for trouble imo. I dont know where you got your information from but i would just say be aware of what you are doing. If you think about it logicaly most peeps on here are running highly modified cars. When mr ford was designing his rs turbo it was never manufactured to cope with the sort of power that alot of ppl are running through them nowadays. Realistically you want to be uprating your bolts not running somthing lesser
Old 17-02-2007, 08:33 PM
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DazC
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Stainless fatigues quickly does it not?

I once saw someone try and fit stainless bolts to their rocker cover on a YB engine. He started getting pissed off when they wouldn't tighten down screaming things about stripping threads in the soft alloy head. So he fitted the original bolts which tightened up. The bolts were rated at the same strength but upon comparison, the stainless bolt had grown almost 5mm.

Do NOT use stainless on load beraring components...

What About Stainless?

Replacing the OEM-plated steel fasteners on the outside of the bike provides a good-looking, low maintenance cure for rusted nuts and bolts. When contemplating replacing OEM fasteners with stainless steel, remember that common stainless steel does not have the strength of common alloy steels and should not be used for critical, highly stressed applications. The stainless steel also has higher friction than steel does which gives less preload at the same torque. When in doubt, keep the OEM steel stuff for critical applications.
Also the yield strength of stainless bolts is lower that steel.
Old 17-02-2007, 08:40 PM
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spot on DazC
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