Help wanted: timing a kent cam with vernier pulley?
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Help wanted: timing a kent cam with vernier pulley?
I got myself a kent CVH34 cam with a vernier pulley, there is only one small problem. How on earth do i time it correctly?
There is no tdc mark on the pulley like on a regular pulley to match up with the mark on the head.
Problem is that i don't have the fitting instructions anymore because there was a small misshap with the box (it met the recyling bin by accident )
So if anyone could give me some pointers how to get it set up correctly you have my eternal gratitude
There is no tdc mark on the pulley like on a regular pulley to match up with the mark on the head.
Problem is that i don't have the fitting instructions anymore because there was a small misshap with the box (it met the recyling bin by accident )
So if anyone could give me some pointers how to get it set up correctly you have my eternal gratitude
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But you have a notch on the crank pulley. I have often measured this to be spot on. Anyhow, using a timing just on the crank , or any other means, turn the crank 119 degrees past the TDC and leave it there. One way is to remove the pulley and carefully measure and mark the 119 degree point with a spot of paint or a felt pen. Then position the cam so that the #1 inlet (closest to the timing belt) is at the center of its lift. For this a special gauge is very usefull. So what you need is something like this:
http://www.opel6070club.com/30eemeli/heittokello.JPG
In a CVH it's easiest to measure from the lifter. I managed to buy a low grade gauge for 20e, which is more than accurate enough for my use. After you have the crank and the cam timed correctly, install the vernier and cam belt. Now, you can test teh timing by turning the crank past your 119 degree mark and verify that your cam maximum lift occurs at the same time.
http://www.opel6070club.com/30eemeli/heittokello.JPG
In a CVH it's easiest to measure from the lifter. I managed to buy a low grade gauge for 20e, which is more than accurate enough for my use. After you have the crank and the cam timed correctly, install the vernier and cam belt. Now, you can test teh timing by turning the crank past your 119 degree mark and verify that your cam maximum lift occurs at the same time.
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Thanks m8, i'll give that a try.
But as i understand it's not as easy as putting on your old original cam-pulley (which does have that tdc mark on it) on, setting it correctly and then fitting the vernier?
Allthough i don't have a gauge for checking the valve lift, it should be visible to the naked eye when it reaches it's center lift.
But i think i'll manage, if not i'll be back soon
But as i understand it's not as easy as putting on your old original cam-pulley (which does have that tdc mark on it) on, setting it correctly and then fitting the vernier?
Allthough i don't have a gauge for checking the valve lift, it should be visible to the naked eye when it reaches it's center lift.
But i think i'll manage, if not i'll be back soon
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No, it's not that visible.
If you want to do it the "not proper" way, then just put your original pulley (stamped KA for RST ?) and the vernier pulley on top of each other and lock the vernier to give the same timing than the standard. Then just install the timing belt. Drive in the cam. Test the performance. Try advancing/retarding a couple of degress and feel how it spools up and where in the RPM range it pulls the best.
If you want to do it the "not proper" way, then just put your original pulley (stamped KA for RST ?) and the vernier pulley on top of each other and lock the vernier to give the same timing than the standard. Then just install the timing belt. Drive in the cam. Test the performance. Try advancing/retarding a couple of degress and feel how it spools up and where in the RPM range it pulls the best.
#5
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If you dont know what you are doing then dont do it your self especially when it comes to timing an engine. Wouldnt it be cheaper to pay the labour charge to have the cam set up properly than to pay out a load of money to have the valves replaced if you F-it up. Where ever you live just take it to the nearest TURBO specialist and be done with it. To get the best out of a performace cam its best to use a timing gauge.
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Originally Posted by JaysS2TURBS
If you dont know what you are doing then dont do it your self especially when it comes to timing an engine. Wouldnt it be cheaper to pay the labour charge to have the cam set up properly than to pay out a load of money to have the valves replaced if you F-it up. Where ever you live just take it to the nearest TURBO specialist and be done with it. To get the best out of a performace cam its best to use a timing gauge.
Here's a more detailed description of timing the cam:
http://www.webcamshafts.com/degreeing.html
#7
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I agee gone are the days of doing it yourself as it wasnt that long ago that ppl would be out with carb balancing kits and gunson mixture kits trying to squeeze the most they could out of there cross flows on there drive on a sunday afternoon,
its all "something needs doing to the car, quick dear get the visa out dear??"
theres no sence of satisfaction anymore its just money???
its all "something needs doing to the car, quick dear get the visa out dear??"
theres no sence of satisfaction anymore its just money???
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Thanks for the help guys. Engine is running like a dream after some trouble with dodgy injectors and a dead ignition-ecu.
Only thing that keeps me from driving now is that during the running in of the cam the coolant reaches a boiling point, bigtime.
Checked the thermostat, but that is working just fine. The coolantpump is brandnew, all hoses are connected up the right way.
Anyone who can help me with this problem?
Only thing that keeps me from driving now is that during the running in of the cam the coolant reaches a boiling point, bigtime.
Checked the thermostat, but that is working just fine. The coolantpump is brandnew, all hoses are connected up the right way.
Anyone who can help me with this problem?
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