Efi
#1
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Efi
right finished my efi conversion, starts on the key, but when i drive up the road its as flat as anything, i could ride a bike faster, any ideas?
these r the only things i havnt done at the mo, i got the iscv to atmosphere instead of going to the crossover pipe
ive got the original brake servo pipe cut and joined to a take off on the inlet instead of the proper push type efi servo pipe
would these cause this problem^?
if i blank the pipe on the iscv off, it cuts out
if i disconect the iscv it also cuts out out
its not chipped yet, so standard boost with a bleed valve thats wound all the way in
the idle is very low too, but the idle screw is wound out as far as possible
when driving its like the exhaust is blocked, (was fine on mfi)
when i rev it on idle i get chatter so turbo must be spinning up
any help would be grateful chaps
these r the only things i havnt done at the mo, i got the iscv to atmosphere instead of going to the crossover pipe
ive got the original brake servo pipe cut and joined to a take off on the inlet instead of the proper push type efi servo pipe
would these cause this problem^?
if i blank the pipe on the iscv off, it cuts out
if i disconect the iscv it also cuts out out
its not chipped yet, so standard boost with a bleed valve thats wound all the way in
the idle is very low too, but the idle screw is wound out as far as possible
when driving its like the exhaust is blocked, (was fine on mfi)
when i rev it on idle i get chatter so turbo must be spinning up
any help would be grateful chaps
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You can't adjust the idle with the screw as far as im aware, the ECU has the idle speed programmed in and therefore controls it.
You sure you've got everything plugged up?
You sure you've got everything plugged up?
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If the idle control valve is going to atmosphere do you have the charge carrier vlaneked or are you still using the escort one? Also wouldnt you lose some boost through the idle control valve runing to atmosphere or does it completely shut off when not being used. With regards to idle like safe chav says its predetermined by the ecu you can set base idle with iscv disconnected and adjust the screw you mention should be around 600rpm i think. Is the valve operating properly and not all gummed up?
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Im pretty sure its ok to run them with a breather filter on the ISCV, i'm sure ive seen cars at shows like this.
Good point though im sure someone will know for definate
Good point though im sure someone will know for definate
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Originally Posted by tim10_10
If the idle control valve is going to atmosphere do you have the charge carrier vlaneked or are you still using the escort one? Also wouldnt you lose some boost through the idle control valve runing to atmosphere or does it completely shut off when not being used. With regards to idle like safe chav says its predetermined by the ecu you can set base idle with iscv disconnected and adjust the screw you mention should be around 600rpm i think. Is the valve operating properly and not all gummed up?
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Right went to play with it just now, is it at all possible that the timing could be out? would this cause this?
when i put the 1.8 sierra pulley on i put it in gear to tighten the pulley up, i know the crank isnt locked untill the gears lock up, so the engine turns abit before it locks, could at this point the belt mayb jumped a tooth? i also found the belt cracked so its about to go at anythime
when i put the 1.8 sierra pulley on i put it in gear to tighten the pulley up, i know the crank isnt locked untill the gears lock up, so the engine turns abit before it locks, could at this point the belt mayb jumped a tooth? i also found the belt cracked so its about to go at anythime
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#8
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Well first things first get that belt changed before you really cause some damage.
You should really get the bottom pulley on and tighten it as tight as you can by hand, then time it up and tighten the tensioner etc, then tighten the bottom pulley bolt
You should really get the bottom pulley on and tighten it as tight as you can by hand, then time it up and tighten the tensioner etc, then tighten the bottom pulley bolt
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Originally Posted by SafeChav
Well first things first get that belt changed before you really cause some damage.
You should really get the bottom pulley on and tighten it as tight as you can by hand, then time it up and tighten the tensioner etc, then tighten the bottom pulley bolt
You should really get the bottom pulley on and tighten it as tight as you can by hand, then time it up and tighten the tensioner etc, then tighten the bottom pulley bolt
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Not necessarily, but like you say when you spin the bottom end over without the belt tightened you could well of jumped a tooth cos the belts loose, so by timing it up first you can then tighten the bottom pulley bolt and it wont jump any teeth or anything
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Originally Posted by SafeChav
Well either way get that belt off, don't even risk it for the sake of a Ł10 belt!!!!!!
what i did notice tho was that the crank pulley had very slight play in it even when tight, could this affect the cps signal?
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ive got sierra pulley, i can only explain the movement as the same sort of play you get in a turbo shaft, very little, but im wondering if this is enough to affect the cps signal causing it to be really flat?
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Well, being loose isn't good..........it should really not move at all because it gets sandwiched between the belt pulley and the bolt.
But movement is more then likely going to affect the signal.
When you change the belt, clean up the back of the pulley etc, if theres bit of dirt etc stuck to it making the contact faces uneven this won't help, use some emery paper or whatever.....if you get me?
But movement is more then likely going to affect the signal.
When you change the belt, clean up the back of the pulley etc, if theres bit of dirt etc stuck to it making the contact faces uneven this won't help, use some emery paper or whatever.....if you get me?
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i found this on rs bible
"The E-DIS 4 module uses the SAW signal to control the DIS coil. If the EEC-IV module develops a fault, a Limited Operation Strategy (LOS) comes into effect allowing the driver to continue the journey but with restricted power and economy"
this is like what mine feels like
"The E-DIS 4 module uses the SAW signal to control the DIS coil. If the EEC-IV module develops a fault, a Limited Operation Strategy (LOS) comes into effect allowing the driver to continue the journey but with restricted power and economy"
this is like what mine feels like
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Fuck me ur havin a laugh just been packing a head up for eBay and im sweating like a paedophile in a playground, let alone working on the car
Ive got a Series 1 to fix for someone this week anyway, and i get to use it while hes away on work
Ive got a Series 1 to fix for someone this week anyway, and i get to use it while hes away on work
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Originally Posted by Rab
Glad it's all running mate. Get it chipped and set up. It'll fly.
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Originally Posted by SafeChav
Originally Posted by Rab
Glad it's all running mate. Get it chipped and set up. It'll fly.
I'll leave the 'satisfying' of the boys to you mate
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Originally Posted by Rab
Originally Posted by SafeChav
Originally Posted by Rab
Glad it's all running mate. Get it chipped and set up. It'll fly.
I'll leave the 'satisfying' of the boys to you mate
what can i possibly come back to that with.........
ive clearly been taught by the best MASTER
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