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Brake problem....now sorted

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Old 28-05-2006, 11:14 PM
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turbo.jon
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Default Brake problem....now sorted

Just got me car back on road but ive got 1 problem when i start car up in the morning and drive to end road my foot nearly hits the floor when trying to brake and car starts to stutter and nearlly stalls.now car has had abs taken off but this was ages ago and its also had 2 new rear brake cylinders for last mot.ive tried bleeding the system but there is air coming from drivers rear all others are fine.to me it sound like might have a dodgy brake line but just want check if anyone can think of anything else as its weird how it make car stall nearly????

cheers
jon
Old 29-05-2006, 12:41 AM
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Micky
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Sounds like you've an air leak on the vacum pipe between the servo and the inlet manifold.Regards Micky
Old 29-05-2006, 12:46 AM
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vroooom ptssssh
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as Micky said, that was my first thought.
Old 29-05-2006, 11:17 AM
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SafeChav
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With the engine off, is the pedal solid?

RS's are very sensitive to leaky servo's just had to change mine, they suffer more when cold, after about a minute or so of running, mine used to play up really bad.

Do you know how to test the brake servo?
Old 29-05-2006, 02:09 PM
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turbo.jon
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Originally Posted by SafeChav
With the engine off, is the pedal solid?

RS's are very sensitive to leaky servo's just had to change mine, they suffer more when cold, after about a minute or so of running, mine used to play up really bad.

Do you know how to test the brake servo?
when not running pedal does not go rock soild thats why i thought its got a leak in brake pipes as there is air in system.im not sure how to check brake servo if its working ok how do you do it?????

cheers
jon
Old 29-05-2006, 02:30 PM
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SafeChav
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If the pedal doesnt go rock hard after a few pushes with the engine off then there is something up.

The way you test the servo is to run the engine, switch off, and it should retain the vacuum inside so you have a few presses until it goes hard, and then you push and hold the pedal and re-start and it should sink.

If the pedal goes rock hard as soon as you turn off, or if you hold your foot on it and switch off and the pedal forces your foot up then the servos leaking.

However if the pedal will not go firm then that test can't be done. You need to check for leaking calipers/wheel cylinders, split/corroded pipes, and a failing master cylinder.

A pressure bleeder is sometimes helpful.....
Old 29-05-2006, 02:35 PM
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turbo.jon
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Cool cheers mate ive got a feeling its going to be the small pipe from brake cylinder to rubber pipe on the rear thats fooked as i had problem with brakes for last mot and had to change other 1.so will give it a try and replace it see what happens it s got be something on that bit as its the only side thats got air in system still.
Old 29-05-2006, 02:37 PM
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SafeChav
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You can tell a lot by looking, you will see fluid leaking wherever the problem is.

If youve got a pressure bleeder connect that up and leave it, without opening any bleed nipples, it will pressurise the system and make leaks more obvious
Old 01-06-2006, 06:52 PM
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turbo.jon
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Right ive now fitted new goodridge brake hoses and replaced both of the little metal brake pipes on the rear brakes on the front its had goodridge hoses fitted i then bleed the system and im still getting trouble from drivers side rear i did bleed it and got no air but drive it up road and its a bit better when try bleed it again there is air in it again also the handbrake does not lock the wheel up on this side only the other could this have anything to do with it????

cheers
jon
Old 01-06-2006, 07:04 PM
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notSteveS2
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not sure but mayb the gaskets on read drums calipers r gone matey?!

like i sed not 100% as dont no loads bout rear brakes
Old 02-06-2006, 09:23 AM
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ivorbiggun
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sounds like the apportioning valves...
Get a pal to sit in the boot and bounce up and down(thereby activating the apportioning valves)whilst you're bleeding the rear again/No ones asked yet but is the car on the ground when you're bleeding the rears?You cannot bleed it correctly with the rear in the air.
Old 02-06-2006, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ivorbiggun
sounds like the apportioning valves...
Get a pal to sit in the boot and bounce up and down(thereby activating the apportioning valves)whilst you're bleeding the rear again/No ones asked yet but is the car on the ground when you're bleeding the rears?You cannot bleed it correctly with the rear in the air.
its not got the apportioning valves at rear its had abs removed and all new lines fitted and it now has regulating valve in the engine bay.the car is sitting on the floor not jacked up or anything.im going to try another brake cylinder tomorow see where i get then......
Old 02-06-2006, 05:40 PM
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If need be mate, disconnect the rear line that is causing problems at the master cylinder, and put a bolt and washer in, and try again, this will identify if the problem lies with the master cylinder or the wheel cylinder.

Have you had the drums off?
Old 02-06-2006, 08:47 PM
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turbo.jon
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Originally Posted by SafeChav
If need be mate, disconnect the rear line that is causing problems at the master cylinder, and put a bolt and washer in, and try again, this will identify if the problem lies with the master cylinder or the wheel cylinder.

Have you had the drums off?

Will give it a go in morning ive had drums off to have a look and i fitted a new brake cylinder and still did not sort it so its got to be pipe from master cyl to rear brakes thats fooked or the master cylindr but will check all this tomorow.it do seam weird the hand brake dont work on this side too

cheers
jon
Old 02-06-2006, 09:23 PM
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You've got a fault in that drum i reckon mate.......u sure the auto adjuster hasn't seized up or something.

Can you get a picture?
Old 02-06-2006, 09:43 PM
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turbo.jon
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Originally Posted by SafeChav
You've got a fault in that drum i reckon mate.......u sure the auto adjuster hasn't seized up or something.

Can you get a picture?

Not got pic at moment its just made me think just before xmas i had rear wheel bearing let go big time and it snapped wheel off at around 50mph and the rear drum is what hit the floor so might have done something then but it all looks ok nothing bent,but will get a pic tomorow.....


jon
Old 03-06-2006, 08:37 AM
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Thats co-incidental........thats more than likely the cause of any problems.

That pic could help a lot
Old 03-06-2006, 11:48 AM
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well been out in it this morning and it looks like its ok brakes are a lot better and foot didnt hit floor when i went up road only problem still is peddle does not go rock solid when engine not running it goes hard but not rock hard so u cant push it any further and the hand brake still fooked so going outside in a min to take pic and have look again......



jon
Old 03-06-2006, 03:17 PM
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Right pics not too clear as cam is $hit ive just changed the brake cylinder again i only done it last week and it seams to have sorted it ive got no air in system now ive not driven it since but should be ok...well still cant sort handbrake out ive had a look under car at all cable it looks like its been adjusted to as far as it will go as there is a spin lock thing an it wont go any further would this be the reason i would have thought both wheels would not lock up though if this was the reason????

cheers
jon
Old 03-06-2006, 03:20 PM
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I bet you the handbrake problem is caused by the brake shoes catching, i had this problem before i was ripping my hair out.

If you look behind the backplate, there is a little black plunger, i hadnt pushed mine back out and the handbrake lever was catching on it inside the drum, and the handbrake wouldnt work........worth a check
Old 03-06-2006, 05:34 PM
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turbo.jon
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found the problem it looks like i need new brake shoes as the side the handbrake use there is not a lot left on it no where near as much as other side thats why the peddle brakes lock wheels up and the handbrake dont thanks for your help safechav

cheers
jon
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