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cearbox or clutch?????

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Old 19-03-2006, 06:06 PM
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webby80
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Default cearbox or clutch?????

right peeps can i pick ur brains had a new clutch kit fitted 2 month back since then a problem has started and it is just getting worse and worse and it goes like this most of the time in fith on motorway or such ill put my foot down to over take the boost comes on revs pic up but no drive it dont accelerate now it started doin it in other gears !!!!!

now i have been told that it could be that they maneged to pop a seal when they where takin the box out and its now sprayin oil over the clutch ??

i dont pretend to know anything about gearboxes and wondered if u lot could help
Old 19-03-2006, 08:00 PM
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John Laverick
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The symptoms do sound like a slipping clutch....it is not possible to damage any oil seals when changing a clutch. [Unless they've done something completely wrong that I can't imagine].

If your crank seal has let go [its behind the flywheel] there is a chance it is getting onto the clutch which is causing the slip. Although in my experaince its unlikely.

Is the car losing/using any oil? If you removed the gearbox/flywheel inspection plate underneath and run your fingers around the inside to see if there is any olil in there it would help.

What was the reason you chaned the clutch in the first place? Did you have the flywheel skimmed? Did you allow the clutch 1k miles to bed in? [if you didn't get the cflywheel skimmed]

What power you running and wht clutch you put in?
Old 20-03-2006, 05:13 PM
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she is running just over 160bhp have done just over 2500 on new clutch fitted that cause the guy who owned it b4 me had fitted a cheap quinten hazel kit and it was bollocksed the one i put in was a borg kit and no i didn't have flywheel skimed
Old 20-03-2006, 05:24 PM
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Was the kit specifically for the RST?

You should let a new clutch bed-in if you don't have the flywheel skimmed to allow the surfaces to mate [although I would recommed for the cost you should always get the flywheel skimmed if in doubt].

Did you inspect the flywheel? What condition was it in?

Try doing some easy miles on the clutch [say 1000] and see if the problems gets any better. If you have been slipping it a lot then its possible you have scored/burnt the faces and it'll never be right.

Also check to see if there is oil coming from under the car/gearbox to see if the clutch is getting contaminated.

If the above doesn't wok it sounds like its box off time again to inspect and find out whats going on.

It could also be that your clutch is a re-condition and not a genuine one so maybe just can't handle the power Don't forget they are only designed for 130lf/ft of torque.
Old 20-03-2006, 05:31 PM
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well it was driven for about 1300 miles nice and easy not cainin it the clutch was a new item for the rs
Old 20-03-2006, 06:18 PM
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When you say new. Was it from Ford? Or a motor factor?

What about the clutch cable and pedal mechanism. Is the clutch cable repleasing properly and fulling? The ratchet and pawl system on Mk4's is notoriously dodgy.
Old 20-03-2006, 06:24 PM
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motor factor mate . the cable and rachet was some thing that crossed my mind
Old 20-03-2006, 08:00 PM
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I'd be suspicious of the motor factor clutch!! I had on ein mine when I was running 170BHP and it sometimes slipped in 4th 5th when driven hard.

Its worth investigating the clutch pedal and making sure its releasing fully. Also check for oil underneath and let us know
Old 23-03-2006, 09:10 PM
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no oil mate . how do i make sure pedal is releasing???
Old 23-03-2006, 10:41 PM
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NUTS RuS
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Yep your clutch is slipping.
Old 24-03-2006, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by NUTS RuS
Yep your clutch is slipping.
I think we got that far
Old 24-03-2006, 08:32 AM
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The ratchet/pawl is designed to take up the slack in the cable when the clutch wears/the cable stretches and is supposed to adjust automatically. Its possible that its stuck in the wrong position [I.E. for the old clutch].

Hmmm…I’ve not really had to do this but….what I would do is one of two things.

1. Mark the position of the clutch release arm on the gearbox with the cable on. THEN remove the cable and you should be able to see if the release arm is sitting in the right position.
2. Get under the dash and see how the spring pawl adjuster works. What you may need to do is reset it. Its difficult to describe but you need to lift the pawl to allow the quadrant through to the start position. You then depress the pedal and it will self adjust.

If it were me though I would replace the lot with the Mk5 Pedal/Quadrant as it’s a much better/reliable system which you can adjust to suit your needs. See the AP website or search on here for info.


Let me know how you get on!!
Old 24-03-2006, 11:16 AM
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Master of the obvious me John
Old 24-03-2006, 09:22 PM
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ta john ill have a go this weekend
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