HI ANY IDEAS WHY MY BATTERY IS GOING FLAT9AFTER 1 WEEK)
I HAVE CHECKED ALL THE NORMAL THINGS LIKE LIGHTS,CD PLAYER& ALARM I ALSO HAVE SPOKEN TO MY LOCAL FORD DEALER BUT STILL NO LUCK
PLEASE HELP CHEERS PAUL

 

could simply be dead cells in the battery,take the battery off and take it to halfords or most spares shops and get them to drop charge it, if the batterys fine then posiblt alternater not charging.

 

CHEERS MATE
BUT I FORGOT TO SEY ITS A NEW BATTERY AND THE GAUGE IS SHOWING ITS CHARGING AT 13 AMPS
CHEERS PAUL

 

is it turning over as if to start but no spark or are you just getting a loud click when you turn the key to start the engine?

 

Old tracker battery

 

sorry or boot light

What you gotta do is get an ohmeter inline on the earth side of battery and see what the current draw is, then remove each fuse 1 by 1 to see which circuit is drawing the current

 

JUST A CLICKING NOISE
WHAT IS A OLD TRACKER BATTERY???
CHEERS PAUL

 

 

Some tracking devices have battery back up, as these batteries age they no longer gharge but drain

 

starter motor.........


had this on mine....went through everything to do with the battery, but wasnt. reckon i could garentee its the starter motor...

 

As per Glen do the heater blowers and lights work when you try to crank? what does voltmeter read when IGN on? could just be the starter

 

when mine went, it was reading 3 quaters on the gauge, but when u go to start it was dropping to half and just under, but if theres nothing there to start the engine then it wont start, hence why its not turning over.......

 

Side issue - my clifford has gone very, very quiet - is this the internal battery? - if so are they easy to change and where do I get one from?

 

I THOUGHT ABOUT THE STARTER MOTOR BUT IF I DISCONECT THE BATTERY AND LEAVE IT 4 A WEEK OR 2 AND RECONECT IT SHE STARTS 1ST TIME
CHEERS PAUL

 

tgsday
Needs a new siren /siren battery, I just put a new siren in mine myself but I know exactly how they fit and where my "brain" is

 

can you bump start the car......

i dont reccomend jump leads, as i used this method and it cooked my ECU.....

as i could get it started but would die near enuff straight away as it wasnt creating a constant connection from the starter motor...

 

Damo - how much do you think it will cost from a dealer?

 

suppply and fit no more than a ton I imagine , BUT they may just put a new battery in ... Mine made some wierd clicking noises sometimes too, thats also why I knocked it on the head

 

 

any updates on this as to the problem....?

 

no but mine is excactly the same lol

 

my battery was going flat all the time when i first bought my escos, turned out to be the fan sensor on the rad was faulty, switching them on unecessary when i left the car. just a suggestion

 

 

Mine did this and its the standard ford Immob (clicking etc), had that taken out, and never had any bother since. Also had the flat battery thing as well, and this was the boot light staying on when the boot was shut.

 

snap

the relay (large green one near the battery) was full of water and teh spring had rotted off iside, so it would pull in ok, but was pure luck the fans stopped(slow speed) when it deerergised

 

same as above...

 

This flat battery scenario seems to be a common thing... I have the same problem Have been putting a battery conditioner on it after every time I drive it. The battery is new too.

 

even now, i cant leave it a week without it going partially flat, i have to leave it with an optimate on when im not using it, and thats with allt eh above probs sort, new tracker battery, fans, boot light, interior light etc etc, just dunno whats drawing the power

 

Easiest way to check what the prob is;;;;


Get a good ameter, remove -ve wires from battery bolt them together, then connect meter in series one end on batt other on wires, DO NOT start car etc..

you will se a draw figure (might be best to sit in car or remove door pin swtich)

it may be as high as 0.2 amps IIRC, till the inerior light relay cuts out after 20 secs or so it should drop quite a bit

I cant remember exactly what mine was, but I THINK it needs to be nearly as low as 0.020 amps

anyway whatever it is, in idle state, one by one remove each fuse in the fuse box/boot area, when you pull one and the current DROPS significantly, THAT is your problem circuit... I found mine to be an OLD tracker battery, which was no longer in use but still connnected!!

 

I should add its not uncommon for aftermarket H/Units to be the problem, apparently Kenwoods are renound for it

 

kenwoods thats wots in mine, lol i might smash it up if its causing mine

ill have to do the amp meter test tomorrow

 

you have to put the meter on a particular way round, ie the red wire to batt black wire toe earth wires... BUT I cant remember which it was

 

doesnt really matter which way round the ammeter goes, it will just read negative instead of positive,

will go through it all at weekend, as its got a new tracker battery, and ive pulled the interior light delay relay as thats faulty anyway

 

I thought my interior light relay was faulty also... IIRC it was like 40 quid but there was nthing wrong with it

 

thats why i removed it and want to make sure it that before buying a new one, wunder whether if due to a low battery voltage, it makes it stick on..>?

 

I found with the relay removed, it confused my alarm into thinking I left the door open ... so just went and bought another

If I can find my old one do you want to borrow it?

 

I had a new interior light fitted as the old one was faulty. Taking my car down to Scotty in next 2 weeks - so will get him to check with ammeter for me. Could it be that the alternator is at fault, mine is orig one still?

Even when driving, SECs shows voltage at about 12.8 - 12.9 not ever into the 13s and if I switch engine off and just have ignition on, the voltage drops quite rapidly to 11.0 - 11.1

It all started when I didn't use the car for a month and battery went flat, then after being charged, I had all sorts of problems with the alarm going off 5 mins after being activated. I then got a new battery, reset the alarm but still goes off after 5 mins and none of the other faults have gone away

 

right, u might find this interesting....


just gone through all my relays and fuses with an ammeter in series with the neg of the battery, car was pulling 120 ma all teh time and no unplugging of ecu,s alarms, tracker etc made any duifference,

un til i tried the yellow one on the back fothe fusebox, the one on its own, which until the other day i didnt know what it was for, it feeds the ford alarm box, whip it out, the red led comes on on the dash, but the battery drain goes from 120ma to 10ma.

fookin ford alarm, not the wipac imobilser, just teh one that stops it cranking if u lock the car with teh key in the door.

only problem now, my toad alarm locks the door when u lock it, but it also makes them deadlock , ok u think, but u have to disarm it twice now to get in, the forst disarm undoes the deadlocks, then the second unlocks the doors, put the gfuse back in and it all works as it shuold but he drain is back to 120 ma, so ive found what was pulling it down, just need to sort out getting it removed alltogether.

 

wired stuff happens aswell with the ford onw powered down, if u slock teh doors while th engine is running, the oil pressure light comes on, if u lock teh door with the alarm, with teh engine running, u cant open them by the handle, u need to press the disarm button twice.

does anybody know what can fail to cause a battery drain of 100 ma in the ford alarm (the one in teh drivers kick well)

 

right, got it sorted,


with it all plugged back in, with my ameter in place of the fuse on the back of the fusebox... with the doors unlocked, wither by the toad, or using the key in the door (or just by unlocking them from insode ) the ford alarm box draws a steady 100ma, as soon as you lock them (again by any means) this drops significantly to 8-10ma.

this would explain why leaving it unlocked and unarmed apartf from teh imobilser) it would flatten the battery enough to cause a dodgy start in a week, and almost completely in 2 weeks.