my projected spec for my car! any ideas? (56k go home)
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my projected spec for my car! any ideas? (56k go home)
well ive sold my r5 GTT now so ive got more than enough cash to get the car how i want. so im thinking......
get car upto 300bhp on small turbo management, stronger hybrid turbo.
Breather system
mongoose exhaust (just got one)
mike rainbird spec NUR suspension kit (would love some more info on this)
Radtec small turbo radiator and intercooler kit (aircon is retained)
AP 6 pots, maybe 4 will do
Recaro leather buckets inside (mike rainbird style)
some nice 18x8 new style mos
fully polu bushed all round
Adrenaline frame connectors (booked in for september 4th)
i personally think all the above @ 300bhp would make an awesome road car without going to far, reliable, very quick and still awesome on the track or at least competant on the track.
what do you lot think about the spec im after? overkill or perfect?
get car upto 300bhp on small turbo management, stronger hybrid turbo.
Breather system
mongoose exhaust (just got one)
mike rainbird spec NUR suspension kit (would love some more info on this)
Radtec small turbo radiator and intercooler kit (aircon is retained)
AP 6 pots, maybe 4 will do
Recaro leather buckets inside (mike rainbird style)
some nice 18x8 new style mos
fully polu bushed all round
Adrenaline frame connectors (booked in for september 4th)
i personally think all the above @ 300bhp would make an awesome road car without going to far, reliable, very quick and still awesome on the track or at least competant on the track.
what do you lot think about the spec im after? overkill or perfect?
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mike i no you get asked this alot but please can you post your FULL spec up again please because tbh i kinda want to copy your car, i think your balance is perfect.
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INTERIOR:
Full leather Recaro interior:
Stack ST8130P* - Speedo / Rev counter / oil pressure / fuel pressure / water temperature (before radiator) / oil temperature / battery / fuel level / odometer / tripmeter / manual lap timer.
All idiot lights replaced with custom items.
Exhuast Gas Temperature gauge - Defi*
Water temperature gauge (after radiator) - Defi*
*Peak memory recall and alarm warning on all readouts, with record and play-back on APEXi and Defi items.
Boost pressure gauge - APEXi 2.5 bar*.
Electric sunroof.
12 position boost control - 1.0 to 2.2 bar.
Willans Harnesses.
Momo gear knob.
Pectel Monitor mounted in centre of dash.
WHEELS & TYRES:
Wheels: Compomotive MO cast alloy, 8" x 18", ET15mm offset.
Tyres:
Front: 245/35ZR18, currently Dunlop Super-sport Race
Front: 245/35ZR18, currently Dunlop Super-sport Race
BRAKES:
Front: AP Racing 378mm (15") CP3700-1010/11G8 grooved and ventilated discs (fully floating) with gold anodised aluminium bells. AP Racing CP6235 6-pot differential bores, liquid-cooled, WRC callipers, and stainless-steel braided hoses. Ferodo DS3000 (CP6235D46) pads.
Rear: AP Racing 315mm (12.4") CP3580-64/5G8 grooved and ventilated discs wth gold anodised aluminium bells. AP Racing "Ex-works" Grp A, Ford Motorsport CP3620 4-pot callipers with titanium pistons and stainless-steel braided hoses. Ferodo DS3000 (CP3215D50) pads.
System: Hydraulic, dual-circuit with vacuum servo assistance and Teves ABS. Reyland hydraulic handbrake actuation.
ENGINE:
Type: Ford-Cosworth YBP
Capacity: 2180cc
Bore / Stroke: 92mm/82mm
Compression ratio: 7.54:1
Max. power: 477bhp @ 7010rpm @ 27 PSI**
Torque @ max. power: 358lb.ft
Max. torque: 408lb.ft @ 4520rpm @ 27 PSI**
Power @ max. torque: 351bhp
Specific output: 218bhp per litre.
Power / weight ratio: 335bhp/tonne.
Cylinders: Four, in-line. Accralite 92mm pistons.
Cylinder head: Works spec medium ported head (carried out by Nick Waples), with short duration cams.
Block: Cast iron (200 Series), WRC tri-metallic head gasket and long-studded.
Bottom end: Farndon 82mm crank, WRC high pressure oil pump.
Valve gear: Four valves per cylinder (35mm inlet / 31mm exhaust),
3-angle valves / seats operated by belt-driven twin overhead camshafts and inverted hydraulic bucket tappets operated by Isky valve springs. Big wing (5½ litre) baffled sump and Bailey crankcase breather kit with braided hosing.
Fuel and ignition: Webber-Marrelli fuel injection with P8 ECU, Pectel Super 8 control board, Pectel monitor, water injection, Ford Motorsport leads, distributorless ignition system and ALS board. WRC siamese (side by side) 8-injector inlet manifold. AGP 071 plugs, eight 803 (dark green injectors) and 3 bar MAP sensor. Specially programmed
Ahmed Bayjoo ISS (Intercooler Spray System) chip live mapped on engine dyno.
Cooling: Pro-alloy Motorsport 50mm radiator, Pro-alloy auxiliary radiator (see below - this cools water for cylinder head), SPEC-R header tank, swirl pot and water-cooled power steering reservoir.
Induction: K&N panel filter inside modified standard air box T04E turbo (57 trim) with Maram 247 shaft 360° bearing etc, -31 actuator, Pro-alloy 65mm "super-wide" RS500 air-to-air intercooler and water injection (2 x 0.6mm jet). Boost controlled by Ford Motorsport air injectors.
Installation: Front, longitudinal
Exhaust: Mongoose 3" system with oval tail pipe.
Water injection
SUSPENSION:
Front: Independent by LEDA gas filled adjustable dampers with Eibach 325lb springs. Macpherson struts, set to 3° negative camber, 2mm total toe in (fully adjustable rose jointed TCAs). Standard 29mm anti-roll bar with polyurethane bushes.
Rear: Independent, by semi-trailing arms, LEDA gas filled adjustable dampers with Eibach 171lb springs and standard 22mm anti-roll bar. Grp A 6° Zoo ream beam set to 2°45' negative camber and 3mm total toe-in. Polyurethane rear axle bushes.
Rear bumpsteer:
Bump
60mm - 0.030" toe in
50mm - 0.023" toe in
40mm - 0.015" toe in
30mm - 0.009" toe in
20mm - 0.005" toe in
10mm - 0.003" toe in
Droop
10mm - 0.001" toe out
20mm - 0.002" toe out
30mm - 0.003" toe out
TRANSMISSION:
Type: Front-engine, four-wheel-drive
Gearbox: MT75, five-speed with Swedish (Fixit) gear kit.
Alcon six-plate paddle clutch with Reyland hydraulic actuation.
Front diff:Quaife ATB in thickwall casing.
Rear diff: Quiafe ATB in standard casing.
Internal Ratios (FIXIT Gearkit): 1st 3.00:1; 2nd 1.99:1; 3rd 1.33:1; 4th 1:1; 5th 0.825:1; Reverse 2.75:1; Final drive 3.62:1 giving 24.84 mph/1000rpm in top gear with 225/40x18s. Maximimum speed in gears at 7500rpm (rev limited to 7800):
1st 52mph
2nd 78mph
3rd 116mph
4th 155mph
5th 187mph
STEERING:
Type: Power-assisted rack-&-pinion
Lock-to-lock: 2.4 turns
BODY / CHASSIS:
Type: Pressed-steel monocoque, based on conventional Sierra / Escort, in two-door style.
Chassis construction: In steel, as part of monocoque
Dimensions:
Length: 4211mm Width: 1727mm Height: 1425mm Wheelbase: 2551mm Front track: 1453mm Rear track: 1472mm
Actual Weight: 1425Kg* (on road)
On track weight: 1395kg* (tool kit, spare wheel and rear
MDF shelf removed).
*Measured with half tank of fuel, wet weight without driver (75kg).
**Power is on dyno with no ancilliaries, but dynoed with Mongoose exhaust for as close to true power as possible. Estimated to be approx 450-460bhp in car with power steering / alternator drain etc.
Torque should be around 430lb ft now, as in the car it has been mapped for a 2.2bar (32psi) mid-range spike (3500-5000rpm), tailing off to the original 1.8bar after 6000rpm.
At Bedford
At the Nurburgring
At Snetterton
At ND 2004
Thanks to the following people for helping make the car what it is:
Harvey Gibbs, for building an engine so reliable, that I have hardly seen anything of him for the last two years .
Ahmed Bayjoo for being the God of mapping .
Reyland for the hydraulic clutch, handbrake, rear brakes, paint and patience to put up with a fussy git .
Steve Scott for sourcing some of the hard to get bits at the right prices .
Zoo for the rear beam - does what it says on the tin .
Gary at APT for dropping everything as and when required for bits and pieces .
Bernie at CTS for building up the Swedish gearkit quick-smart last year.
Chris at Carnoisseuar for lending me his Quaife for 6 months while I sorted out my Fixit kit (I'll never forget that ).
Tomas at TG Racing .
Jen for putting up with a hobby that consumes such a big part of my life .
My Mum, Dad, the good Lord, my agent etc etc and not forgetting IMA Racing for all his advice (that I then duly ignored and did the correct way )
#7
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Re: my projected spec for my car! any ideas?
Originally Posted by cahzz
car without going to far, reliable, very quick and still awesome on the track or at least competant on the track.
what do you lot think about the spec im after? overkill or perfect?
what do you lot think about the spec im after? overkill or perfect?
Perfect. Just add polybushes to everything as standard rubbers makes everything under the car very loose.
That's my idea of how Escos should be.
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#8
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azreal, glad you like my spec, its going to be awesome on the road!!!
GREAT minds think alike!!
cant wait till its done!!
GREAT minds think alike!!
cant wait till its done!!
#9
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You might consider front arms and rear beam mods. They give vast improvements to handling (fronts I know from experience, rear form passenger experience and what people say)
#10
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will get one of broms rear beams eventually but i wont have any money left!!!
azreal im HOPING its going to turn out as im imaging a real world stormer!!
really excited about getting the adrenaline frame connectors, think this will give me the biggest difference
azreal im HOPING its going to turn out as im imaging a real world stormer!!
really excited about getting the adrenaline frame connectors, think this will give me the biggest difference
#11
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I really don't know. Escos is pretty stiff bodyshell for it's years.
On standard car it's the suspention that feels loose not chasiss flex. But with suspention mods it should make the difference.
On standard car it's the suspention that feels loose not chasiss flex. But with suspention mods it should make the difference.
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Azreal ive heard some seriously good things about the frame connectors but one question you asked him which concerns me he never answered.
-As the forces are transferred differently throughout the bodyshell - won't it cause cracking of attachment points on extremly bumpy roads?
im possitve the eventual load will cause cracking ect ect in the welded area which will let in water and all sorts, if your stiffening the shell that much then surely the loads are being transfered somewhere else? but where? ad to what effect?
-As the forces are transferred differently throughout the bodyshell - won't it cause cracking of attachment points on extremly bumpy roads?
im possitve the eventual load will cause cracking ect ect in the welded area which will let in water and all sorts, if your stiffening the shell that much then surely the loads are being transfered somewhere else? but where? ad to what effect?
#13
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I think he did right now - check the other thread.
My concern is that whole experience is whith good roads of western Europe not Bilstein-braking Polish roads :-/
My concern is that whole experience is whith good roads of western Europe not Bilstein-braking Polish roads :-/
#14
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well have edited my final spec and now im going to start buying the parts i need!! the fun bit!!!
its going to be a really nice fast road and occasional track toy once ive finished
its going to be a really nice fast road and occasional track toy once ive finished
#16
Caraholic
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I personally think if you do all that, the car will feel VERY underpowered, as 300bhp just won't be enough to push the car anywhere near it's limits . Even with 400+bhp, I struggle to get the car out of shape....
However, IMO, you're going about it the right way, as you can do the engine any time.
However, IMO, you're going about it the right way, as you can do the engine any time.
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I just thought that only thing that I would have done/have done and it's not on the list is the diffs. Centre and rear VC upgrade, possibly ATb in the front
You mean to get it sideways? Well you don't do that by power Anyway you car has A LOT of grip and track oriented handling nothing strange it won't go sideways easily - but I bet it can be done even with ATB's you have.
Modern Grp.N rallycars run no more then 280bhp and they do go sideways from time to time, and they certainly are fun to drive
transmission goes first anyway and that's the costly part...
Originally Posted by Mike Rainbird
I personally think if you do all that, the car will feel VERY underpowered, as 300bhp just won't be enough to push the car anywhere near it's limits . Even with 400+bhp, I struggle to get the car out of shape....
Modern Grp.N rallycars run no more then 280bhp and they do go sideways from time to time, and they certainly are fun to drive
However, IMO, you're going about it the right way, as you can do the engine any time.
transmission goes first anyway and that's the costly part...
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Originally Posted by S1rst
Sounds good!!!
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Originally Posted by Mike Rainbird
I personally think if you do all that, the car will feel VERY underpowered, as 300bhp just won't be enough to push the car anywhere near it's limits . Even with 400+bhp, I struggle to get the car out of shape....
However, IMO, you're going about it the right way, as you can do the engine any time.
However, IMO, you're going about it the right way, as you can do the engine any time.
was it cossymad?? not to sure will search it
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Of course it's easier with LOTS of power but at the same time lots of power makes it very hard to control with poor traction surfaces. I spent quite a lot on rallycross track recently and the more power the hard to control the car (with exeption of Evo wih active differentials which was quite easy).
Still you can unbalance it using the brakes, lift-off, or just by destabilising it with steering I don't get that much opportunity to drive AWD cars powerfull enough to be controled by throttle so I have to find other ways.
I really think there aren't that many people around able to use 300+ bhp car's abilities. Of course you're doing great job at the Ring I must admit
Still you can unbalance it using the brakes, lift-off, or just by destabilising it with steering I don't get that much opportunity to drive AWD cars powerfull enough to be controled by throttle so I have to find other ways.
I really think there aren't that many people around able to use 300+ bhp car's abilities. Of course you're doing great job at the Ring I must admit
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Thanks to the following people for helping make the car what it is:
Harvey Gibbs, for building an engine so reliable, that I have hardly seen anything of him for the last two years
Someone got lucky then !!
Harvey Gibbs, for building an engine so reliable, that I have hardly seen anything of him for the last two years
Someone got lucky then !!
#24
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Originally Posted by Richie Russ
Thanks to the following people for helping make the car what it is:
Harvey Gibbs, for building an engine so reliable, that I have hardly seen anything of him for the last two years
Someone got lucky then !!
Harvey Gibbs, for building an engine so reliable, that I have hardly seen anything of him for the last two years
Someone got lucky then !!
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All im going to say is that the service i have received from Harvey Gibbs has been a total disgrace and the engine i had built has broken 3 times in just 4000 miles !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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richie, what spec do you have and whats gone wrong? am intrested as this is the guy i would get to build my motor
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Well, to be honest matey i cant spill too many beans here, but in my honest opinion and im a fair chap, DO NOT get him to build it for you !!
You'll have pm..
You'll have pm..
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