Rear Discs?
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Just looking for some info,is it worth uprating to rear discs?
Do they make that much of a difference?Am uprating to a set of Brembo 4-pots on the front with 286mm discs and was just wondering if it would be worth changing to discs on the back at the same time?
Do they make that much of a difference?Am uprating to a set of Brembo 4-pots on the front with 286mm discs and was just wondering if it would be worth changing to discs on the back at the same time?
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From: Vimto Land Nr Warrington, Cheshire
Is it a road car ?
They don't make that much difference (other than looks) as you have to reduce the pressure to them with a reducer anyway.
Makes maintanance and changing pads easier I suppose if thats your thing.
They don't make that much difference (other than looks) as you have to reduce the pressure to them with a reducer anyway.
Makes maintanance and changing pads easier I suppose if thats your thing.
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From: under the cabby... i think.
NUTS RuS
you know you say you have to reduce pressure to them, do you have to put any new reducing valves on the car or can you use the ones that come off the master cylinder and go to the back wheels, if you get what i mean.....
cheers mark.
you know you say you have to reduce pressure to them, do you have to put any new reducing valves on the car or can you use the ones that come off the master cylinder and go to the back wheels, if you get what i mean.....
cheers mark.
Originally Posted by Micky
I used an aftermarket pressure valve,made by Wilwood.You deffo need one fitted as the back brakes lock all the time without.Regards Micky
what car mate?
If its an ERST then its not fantastic, you need to uprate the master cylinder to gain the full benefits as putting the calipers on the rear makes the pedal travel that much further because they need the extra fluid pushing into them.
I learned the hard way
Although on the plus side i only have the under-bonnet compensators, no load apportioning valves, and they dont lock up, nice and smooth, and powerful
If its an ERST then its not fantastic, you need to uprate the master cylinder to gain the full benefits as putting the calipers on the rear makes the pedal travel that much further because they need the extra fluid pushing into them.
I learned the hard way
Although on the plus side i only have the under-bonnet compensators, no load apportioning valves, and they dont lock up, nice and smooth, and powerful
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Pffffffttttttt
Now your asking
I'm still working on that one myself.....?
Take it you got a Series 2 yeah?
I did a little bit of a temporary mod to mine to tie it over until i find a more suitable answer to it, im preparing for my MOT and was a bit worried about the amount of travel in the pedal...?
What set up have you got on yours?
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Now your asking
I'm still working on that one myself.....?
Take it you got a Series 2 yeah?
I did a little bit of a temporary mod to mine to tie it over until i find a more suitable answer to it, im preparing for my MOT and was a bit worried about the amount of travel in the pedal...?
What set up have you got on yours?
Add me to MSN if its any easier
I'm just interested in this "mod" - not that i'll touch mine, I've no problems with pedal travel now.
I run 300MM Focus ST170 front brakes, Cossie rear brakes, ABS fully removed, Rear load compensators still in place.
I run 300MM Focus ST170 front brakes, Cossie rear brakes, ABS fully removed, Rear load compensators still in place.
you can fit rear disks without changing the master cylinder and leaving the rear compensator valves on, and have real good brakes that dont lock up. as for the pedal travel i'd put that down to they need further bleeding,especially if the calipers are towards the rear of the car and not on top of the disk. as they can be buggers to get ALL the air out!
oh i see?
well like i say i havent got the answer im looking for yet?
Im searching for a larger master cylinder, mine being an 84 cabby, had a 22mm master cylinder, i used a 90 spec 23mm master cylinder when doing the conversion as i knew i would need everything i could.
When i initially fitted them the pedal hit the floor n i was tearing my hair out cos i couldnt find the problem.
Then i learnt about the notorious rear caliper bleeding problem.
Now theyre all bled, but the pedal travelled significantly before i could get braking, so ive adjusted the nut within the servo, basically applies a bit of "pre-load", not the best way of doing it however as you can over do it if your not careful ,meaning the brakes are partially on all the time.
What year is your car, and how did you achieve a good pedal?
well like i say i havent got the answer im looking for yet?
Im searching for a larger master cylinder, mine being an 84 cabby, had a 22mm master cylinder, i used a 90 spec 23mm master cylinder when doing the conversion as i knew i would need everything i could.
When i initially fitted them the pedal hit the floor n i was tearing my hair out cos i couldnt find the problem.
Then i learnt about the notorious rear caliper bleeding problem.
Now theyre all bled, but the pedal travelled significantly before i could get braking, so ive adjusted the nut within the servo, basically applies a bit of "pre-load", not the best way of doing it however as you can over do it if your not careful ,meaning the brakes are partially on all the time.
What year is your car, and how did you achieve a good pedal?
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From: OTB (On the Beach), Norfolk
you need a 25mm master cylinder
I have a 23 and its shit
also, got 3i braking system so nothing to change rear setup, waste of time on my car it was and IS
I have a 23 and its shit
also, got 3i braking system so nothing to change rear setup, waste of time on my car it was and IS
Originally Posted by addiction
you can fit rear disks without changing the master cylinder and leaving the rear compensator valves on, and have real good brakes that dont lock up. as for the pedal travel i'd put that down to they need further bleeding,especially if the calipers are towards the rear of the car and not on top of the disk. as they can be buggers to get ALL the air out!
Originally Posted by James Raby
you need a 25mm master cylinder
I have a 23 and its shit
also, got 3i braking system so nothing to change rear setup, waste of time on my car it was and IS
I have a 23 and its shit
also, got 3i braking system so nothing to change rear setup, waste of time on my car it was and IS
Do you know of any 25mm master cylinders that will go straight on?
If im thinking of the right part, you also have to change the brake servo to the matching one for the master cylinder yeah?
And the new servo is FUCKIN MASSIVE, and you have to modify all the servo mount to fit aswell?
And the new servo is FUCKIN MASSIVE, and you have to modify all the servo mount to fit aswell?
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From: Vimto Land Nr Warrington, Cheshire
Originally Posted by Moondust_crust
NUTS RuS
you know you say you have to reduce pressure to them, do you have to put any new reducing valves on the car or can you use the ones that come off the master cylinder and go to the back wheels, if you get what i mean.....
cheers mark.
you know you say you have to reduce pressure to them, do you have to put any new reducing valves on the car or can you use the ones that come off the master cylinder and go to the back wheels, if you get what i mean.....
cheers mark.

Its required even more so if you have re piped them front to front and rear to rear instead of the old cross directional way.
If its bled up correctly pedal travel shouldn't be any different as the system is full of fluid so your not moving a lot around. If you first have to push air before fluid then you will get a long pedal.
Mk5 Escorts 92-94, Mondeos upto 1996 and Mk3 1.6 Orions 90-93 have a 25.4mm master cylinder if you want to look at those for compatability.
I see excatly what you are saying, but surely as the pistons on the back calipers are massive compared to a wheel cylinder, it still needs more fluid to move a small distance, surface area and all that...?
What brakes do you run?
What brakes do you run?
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