Good Day all, I need some help please. I am in the process of doing a coil on plug conversion on my Escort RS Cosworth. I have been trying to fire up but unable to get spark at the coils. I am using a Haltech Elite 1500 and Haltech PDM. What modifications need to be done to the distributor?

 

None.

Wire everything as per the Haltech instructions. The distributor is not needed at all.

Phase sensor is only needed for proper sequential injection and/or ignition.

You can easily run batch fire and wasted spark with just a sensible crank trigger like a 36-1.

You cannot do this with the shitty Ford 4 tooth crank trigger only. In this case you will need to retain the distributor for a phase sensor along with the 4 tooth

If you reach out to Clint at Brands Hatch Performance, he might be able to supply you with a suitable base map or assistance ( for a fee I would think, it's his business )

He offers various kits

https://www.shopbhp.com/collections/...-plug-play-kit

 

Hi Stevieturbo thank yo for your reply. so i have wired everything according to haltech and retained the Ford crank trigger and distributor. We have tried starting but no spark at the plugs. The haltech is reading the phase but it isn't sending the signal for it to fire.

Thank you for the contact i will reach out to him.

 

Do you have a suitable base map/configuration for the ecu to even attempt to start an engine ?

ie. most importantly, crank/cam settings need configured correctly. What is the software telling you ? Is it synced up ? Good rpm reading ?

 

What is the main benefit of running a 36-1 pulley? Is the map more accurate or does the car start up faster?

 

4 tooth crank gives very very little resolution or information to the ecu. It only denotes a TDC event. It cannot distinguish which TDC event though, and in between the teeth.....it's just a waiting game...oh next tooth....wait....oh next tooth

A 36-1 at least gives info every 10deg of rotation and with the missing tooth, gives an identifier for a pair of TDC events. Still lacking, but much improved resolution for crank position and speed. But can still only tell cyl1/4 TDC, not which one is actually on compression/firing etc so can only fire them together, wasted spark, a spark always firing on an exhaust stroke which is a little pointless.

Hence a phase sensor is needed....preferred, this can then tell the ecu, the next TDC event will be cyl1 compression. This then allows proper timed sequential injection events, and one spark per cylinder.

So for ignition the Cossie gets away with things via the distributor for ensuring the right cylinder gets the right sparks ( because the 4 tooth crank cannot ), and the 2 tooth trigger in the dizzy is to indicate where cyl1 is for the somewhat timed injection events.

I wouldn't necessarily say a 36-1 would start any faster or slower than the 4 tooth. It depends on the overall configuration.

Potentially, the 4 tooth/dizzy could initiate starting after any one of those teeth, which happen every 90deg of crank rotation. Whereas the 36-1 only gets that identifier, worst case scenario, almost 360deg of rotation.

4 tooth and no dizzy ( for spark distribution, but used as a phase sensor ), would not be able to attempt to start until the phase trigger has been seen. So worst case that might take a full 720deg of rotation, again worst case.

Of course thereafter a multitooth wheel offers the ecu better resolution as it's always seeing lots of teeth to know/count exactly where the crank position is.

But no need to do dumb shit like Nissan did and have a 360 tooth optical wheel, then mount it on the bloody camshaft after a wobbly belt driving it !!! Madness.

 

When you use just the phase sensor would you have to remove a tooth from the trigger wheel?

 

What do you mean ?

I would highly doubt any ecu would be happy using just the phase sensor to run any engine. That would be the worst possible idea or option with respect to a YB setup.

What exactly do you have at the minute for both crank trigger and phase trigger ?

 

Crank Trigger is untouched. Phase sensor wheel in the distributor only has one lobe.

 

4 tooth crank and single tooth phase/cam should be fine for most ecu's to work with.

Far from ideal, but would work.

 

Any suggestions ? Because i have been stuck trying to get spark with this setup. The ECU sees a home signal but then it doesnt send the signal for it to spark.

 

I've already given you suggestions.

I do not know how you've it wired, I do not know how you've the ecu configured, or whether it's even remotely correct for the crank/cam trigger setup you have.

I do knot know if you have tested if the ecu is actually sending any signal to the coils or not, or indeed how you might be testing. Or are you just saying because you have no spark....it is not sending any signal. Maybe wiring is wrong and it is sending a signal ? Scope the ecu output to determine 100% if there is a signal or not.

I do not know what coils you are using either. There are lots of variables here.

Some basics from Haltech


https://www.youtube.com/@haltech/search?query=trigger

 

As much as I despise downloading their massively bloated software....

They do have inbuilt trigger options for a Cosworth, although oddly they've called it BDA Cosworth, but it does appear to label it 4 tooth crank and 2 tooth home. Obviously if you're removed a tooth from the dizzy, this can never work.

You'd either need to restore it to original, or move to generic multitooth and single tooth home. With appropriate settings thereafter

 

Cheers Stevie

My car has an aftermarket Ecu and a four lug crank but it seems to turn over a few times before starting compared to the weber setup, wasn’t sure if a 36-1 pulley would help.

 

Probably just the ecu tuning or setup

Any engine setup should be capable of starting within two full crank rotations, as any signals it is expecting will happen within that time,

Most will be less than that though when everything is set right.

if it's taking multiple revolutions, something needs adjusted.