can somebody plug in my ecu
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From: west cornwall
hi all. i got a slight mis on cylinder no4. will someone plug in my ecu into there saff if i post it off. ive changed or tested the following. spark plugs / cap / leads / rotor arm / faze sencor / compreesion tested all cylinders all good / gapped crank sencor /.swopped injector that doesnt seem to be working to another cylinder and the injector seems to work fine on another cylinder. there is 12 volts to the injector plug that goes to no4. ive put brand new spark plugs in and all three plugs are sooted up but no4 is still shiney with nothing on it. ive also run some new wires to injector plug no4 straight from the ecu but didnt make any difference.im about to send the ecu of to auto dynamix at newton abbot near plymouth james the owner was the work shop manager at motor sport development for ten years so what he doent no isnt worth knowing but he want have anything for a while to test it with. my saff is a 2wd red top stg1 chip. i would be so great full if somebody could do this for me. i highly recomend anyone to auto dynamix if you live in or near the west country he took time to speek to me three times and thanks to stuart at md for allso speaking to me. is the fault in my ecu your thoughts please have i missed something thanks ray
hi all. i got a slight mis on cylinder no4. will someone plug in my ecu into there saff if i post it off. ive changed or tested the following. spark plugs / cap / leads / rotor arm / faze sencor / compreesion tested all cylinders all good / gapped crank sencor /.swopped injector that doesnt seem to be working to another cylinder and the injector seems to work fine on another cylinder. there is 12 volts to the injector plug that goes to no4. ive put brand new spark plugs in and all three plugs are sooted up but no4 is still shiney with nothing on it. ive also run some new wires to injector plug no4 straight from the ecu but didnt make any difference.im about to send the ecu of to auto dynamix at newton abbot near plymouth james the owner was the work shop manager at motor sport development for ten years so what he doent no isnt worth knowing but he want have anything for a while to test it with. my saff is a 2wd red top stg1 chip. i would be so great full if somebody could do this for me. i highly recomend anyone to auto dynamix if you live in or near the west country he took time to speek to me three times and thanks to stuart at md for allso speaking to me. is the fault in my ecu your thoughts please have i missed something thanks ray
Well hat would help you is a set of noid lights, which would show you if the injector is pulsing or not.
Martin
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From: west cornwall
thanks very much i really appreciate your help.if i could post you my ecu i can put a chueqe payable to you or paypal it you for the return postage i will see you ok for this. best phone or text me 07816979215 for your address thanks ray. ive read lots of your posts. i dont have any gear to test injectors other than swop them around. i listened to it through a stethoscope and compared to the other three it sounds different thanks ray
Instead of faffing about changing parts...why not test ?
So you've already confirmed 12v at the injector, and a bone dry plug which would infer it is not injecting any fuel. So no confirm a signal. Whether via a noid light, multimeter, scope, whatever.
So you've already confirmed 12v at the injector, and a bone dry plug which would infer it is not injecting any fuel. So no confirm a signal. Whether via a noid light, multimeter, scope, whatever.
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From: west cornwall
thanks for the reply. ive not tested the signal as im unsure what wires to be probbing. the youtube vid is good i,ll try probbing the wireing as it exits the ecu with my test light. even after read the wireing diagram im unsure. ive probed loads of stuff luckaly i only keep blowing fuses. acording to the vid my test light is the same as his it should simulate a noid lamp. ineed to compare the working supply from a good injector plug to the suspect one engine running. as im not a sparky the tests ive carried out are showing its an ecu driver problem but im not confindant enough in my findings ive ran up new wires to the injector from the ecu abandoning the original wireing.what ive replaced i keep in the boot spare apart from the new plugs. im trying to get a mobile sparky to come out to confirm my findings but they have a funny old way of working around here as they only asnwer there phones when they feel like it and have no answer phone message to say wether there dead or alive. ive got more spare fuses i,ll try what matey said in the vid. but really i need someone to test the ecu for me which is the next step after this thanks once again
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From: west cornwall
i think ive found the problem. i lifted the cover of the ecu and holly shit theres been a small fire in there by the look of it around one of the drivers for the injectors.my next headache is how the f...k that happened. i pluged in a indicator mainbeam dip switch it wasnt for the cossie but of a std sierra for the last mot. and about five year ago i took a power supply of the fuel pump relay on the triger wire to run another fuel pump relay when i re wired the fuel pump from the back to the fuse box i should of just found the triger wire. has anyone got a 2wd saff std ecu for a red top its running a stg1 chip. im assuming i can just put my stg1 chip in a std ecu
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You would need a like for like ecu model in order to swap the chip over. I would guess 2wd saph should have an L6 ecu. Check this link to be sure Bigturbo ecu identification
If L6 i do not believe your stg1 chip will run in L1 or L8. One of the others can confirm for sure. Good luck.
If L6 i do not believe your stg1 chip will run in L1 or L8. One of the others can confirm for sure. Good luck.
The indicator stalk won't have any bearing on it, they are exactly the same anyways.
You have to be careful when testing electronics, for example you can easily damage the injector drivers if you use a random bulb.
Additionally, you mention you have blown fuses, which would mean you have been causing shorts when testing.
As to testing the injector, remove the connector and plug both probes into it, being careful to ensure the two do not touch, which would cause a short. You need it running to do this.
You are correct in that the ECU will be an L6, so provided you get another one you can use your EPROM.
Martin
You have to be careful when testing electronics, for example you can easily damage the injector drivers if you use a random bulb.
Additionally, you mention you have blown fuses, which would mean you have been causing shorts when testing.
As to testing the injector, remove the connector and plug both probes into it, being careful to ensure the two do not touch, which would cause a short. You need it running to do this.
You are correct in that the ECU will be an L6, so provided you get another one you can use your EPROM.
Martin
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Too many posts.. I need a life!!
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From: west cornwall
The indicator stalk won't have any bearing on it, they are exactly the same anyways.
You have to be careful when testing electronics, for example you can easily damage the injector drivers if you use a random bulb.
Additionally, you mention you have blown fuses, which would mean you have been causing shorts when testing.
As to testing the injector, remove the connector and plug both probes into it, being careful to ensure the two do not touch, which would cause a short. You need it running to do this.
You are correct in that the ECU will be an L6, so provided you get another one you can use your EPROM.
Martin
You have to be careful when testing electronics, for example you can easily damage the injector drivers if you use a random bulb.
Additionally, you mention you have blown fuses, which would mean you have been causing shorts when testing.
As to testing the injector, remove the connector and plug both probes into it, being careful to ensure the two do not touch, which would cause a short. You need it running to do this.
You are correct in that the ECU will be an L6, so provided you get another one you can use your EPROM.
Martin
what is the eprom marty is this the chip. i might of been responsable for damaging the ecu when i re wired the fuel pump five year ago. it is posable i could of been back feeding it through the triger wire. when i first did it i couldnt get it to run unless i had the the relay pluged into the old loom and a jumper from the triger wire to my new relay. when i looked yesterday at the way i did it i could of kicked my self.so now ive abandoned the new wireing and gone back to the oe and just used the new heavy duty wire that runs the length of the car back to the pump and the supply for that is from the black and red triger wire other wise it want run or the pump runs all the time but this way everything does what it should and the supply is coming away from the ecu with no chance of back feeding. so just to make sure im getting it checked out by a proper auto electician
I suspect you put +12V through pin 28 which is the FP relay earth.
The easiest way of achieving this is by using the original relay as a trigger for the new one.
Basically the original fuel pump supply becomes the supply for the new relay (in the wheel well), which itself has a new supply (protected via fuse from the battery) to the pump.
Essentially the output of the old relay becomes the input for the new relay.
Martin
Thread Starter
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
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From: west cornwall
Correct, it's the chip.
I suspect you put +12V through pin 28 which is the FP relay earth.
The easiest way of achieving this is by using the original relay as a trigger for the new one.
Basically the original fuel pump supply becomes the supply for the new relay (in the wheel well), which itself has a new supply (protected via fuse from the battery) to the pump.
Essentially the output of the old relay becomes the input for the new relay.
Martin
I suspect you put +12V through pin 28 which is the FP relay earth.
The easiest way of achieving this is by using the original relay as a trigger for the new one.
Basically the original fuel pump supply becomes the supply for the new relay (in the wheel well), which itself has a new supply (protected via fuse from the battery) to the pump.
Essentially the output of the old relay becomes the input for the new relay.
Martin
Thread Starter
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 707
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From: west cornwall
my ecu that fried it self was beyound repare the workshop told me today.i put a bid on a l6 on ebay running greens stg2 chip i think. the workshop looked at the same listing and said your better of increasing my original bid which was £100 to £3/400. but i managed to get one of rs cosworth breakers near portsmouth for £260 all in with post. ebay one ended up going for £157 thats cheap i was going to put max bid of £350 but thats the way it goes. i got one thats the main thing
Thread Starter
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
Joined: May 2011
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From: west cornwall
i sent it to a propper ecu chap near camborne cornwall he,s called manic motors the guys called rob i think really helpfull most of the motortrade use him around here his contact details are 07801413054. have a look at at my new thread in tech help if you could on the set up of my new s/hand ecu thanks for the reply
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