Hi having trouble getting oil to my head 1.6 mk4 escort cvh
Flows fast out the oil sensor port so pumps working but its only trickling out the little holes in the cylinder head.
Does anyone know if these engines have oil bungs? or any other ideas? cheers.

 

have you put oil gauge on to see what oil psi its running? there suffer terrible over the years with caked oil burnt on oil in oil ways on head it causes camshaft and tappets to wear ..

 

i rebuilt my cvh and cold on genuine ford pump its 50 psi when red hot at tick over its about 20 psi thats running 10/40 oil

 

The gauge should have been here yesterday prob be monday.
Its had the head cleaned skimmed and new tappets and cam but the tappets are still ticking

 

Did you prime tappets before fitting? also did u cam lube the camshaft just new cams should be run in when fitted

 

I'd have the sump off and check the strainer too.

 

Yea i had a garage do the head i just put it on and timed it.cheers.

 

Done that mate twice cheers.

 

Best thing will be to check oil psi then you know were you are with that side of it you no..

 

Hope you had luck with the rubber gasket not leaking....

Found this on here from a quick search

 

Remember having to clean loads of cvh's back in the day when the strainer blocked up and all the breathers blocked, many unhappy hours doing those. Once they had the black death in the head as you say never sounded right after.

 

I Wont know until i give it a good run , first time took me 4 hours (kids and all )never done one before but im down to 45mins there very black haha.
Hope the pressure gauge arrives the morra will post back let yous know but it is like a tap.
Cheers

 

Finally got it checked 10 psi when cold ... doesnt get any better
Whats next to learn on the list ?

 

10psi when cold!! :O

Rebuild time!

 

I just spent a few quid doing the head ....
So would this be down to a worn crank? Would like to learn more on it.
Also just checked the pressure relief valve its all good.
Cheers.

 

It could be so many things.

Could be a
-faulty oil pressure gauge
-knackered oil pump
-blocked oil feeds
-blocked strainer
-worn mains
-worn big ends
-worn cam journals

and a few other items.

You can whip the big end bearings off easily enough without dropping the engine if you wanna take a gander. Equally swapping the pump can be done in situ (bit fiddly but not that bad) if you want to take a chance, but if its been running at genuinely 10psi cold, then damage will definitely have been done. A couple of degrees and that oil/engine must have been running at as good as 0psi

 

Its a brand new gauge ( although cheap)
Cleaned the strainer already.

Forgot to mention the low oil light isnt actually on , it seems like a very small amount getting to head , and the new tappets ( and old ones ) are noisy.

When the old tappets started ticking i got the head done , havent drove about with it rattling.

Also still have a hard time starting it when its cold , all good when you lift the flap under metering head.
Cheers.

 

the std ford oil light is no use when thst comes on its dead anyways.. 10psi cold the engine is in need of full build and i would get a better upgraded oil pump saying your on that way it will be sorted mate.. or other route could be zetec

 

Going to try a pump then if not be a new engine. Was wanting to drive it while i saved and learned about a new one. Is there a guide on the zetec conversi0n? theres not many rs turbo engines on ebay! cheers.

 

Is the head gasket the same as what came off? Slim chance the oil gallery feeds are blocked by the HG?

 

Oil light trigger point is basically a "sorry your engines dead so here's a lit up bulb to let you know". Thats why I always fitted a higher pressure trigger oil sender on my CVH's, to give me that couple of seconds chance to save it if the worst happened. Doesnt matter if its been driven, a running engine is a running engine. Can't see what oil pressure really has to do with hard starting an engine or not, I could drain all the oil out of my engine and it will start fine.
I know it would be nice to think theres an easy fix here but a proper strip down is the proper way to do it. Luckily the CVH can be rebuilt with your eyes shut and parts are still relatively inexpensive for a standard build.

 

A further point if you're just going to swap the pump - I really will be shocked if running cold 10psi hasnt equated to 0psi even semi-warm which means I'd be equally shocked if you havent got metal/swarf floating around all over the place. Whack a new pump on and you'll be throwing all that swarf through a brand new part. Even if the pump was the initial failure, the swarf is only going to cause premature failure of the new part.

If you were seeing 10psi hot I'd be less damning about it all and you'd probably get away with a loss less, but most CVH owners have been there, done that, learned the hard way

 

The psi drops to 0 when it warms up , it raises up when i accelarate it and drops down but havent had it over 2000revs. It also starts off not to loud but as it warms up the tapping gets louder.

 

Sorry to say anything other than a rebuild is wasting your time then.

 

Decided to get the experience of doing the oil pump but its just catching the end if the crank (about 2 mm ) , do i have to take the back off the oil pump? cheers.

 

Glad you're ignoring the advice No the backing plate doesnt need to come off

 

I cant get the engine out till nearer winter time so while im stuck in the house i might as well learn it and get all the wee bits and bobs sorted cleaned and replaced. Cheers got it very tight.

 

I think the only advice you could give is pull the motor out as its dead get it in a engine stand or on trolly and strip it bare.. i would think running no oil psi the bores will be dead so get it rebored with new pistons or try and find a recon bottom end.. how ever the head work you had done that maybe damaged now dependn how long its been run or drove with no oil psi the camshaft and lifters would of suffered