mk4 cvh oil help
#1
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Hi having trouble getting oil to my head 1.6 mk4 escort cvh
Flows fast out the oil sensor port so pumps working but its only trickling out the little holes in the cylinder head.
Does anyone know if these engines have oil bungs? or any other ideas? cheers.
Flows fast out the oil sensor port so pumps working but its only trickling out the little holes in the cylinder head.
Does anyone know if these engines have oil bungs? or any other ideas? cheers.
#2
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have you put oil gauge on to see what oil psi its running? there suffer terrible over the years with caked oil burnt on oil in oil ways on head it causes camshaft and tappets to wear ..
#4
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The gauge should have been here yesterday prob be monday.
Its had the head cleaned skimmed and new tappets and cam but the tappets are still ticking
Its had the head cleaned skimmed and new tappets and cam but the tappets are still ticking
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#10
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Hope you had luck with the rubber gasket not leaking....![Grin](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
Found this on here from a quick search
![Grin](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
Found this on here from a quick search
The oil pressure you quote doesn't sound horrendous, i'm not sure what mine is as i've no pressure gauge. Just looked in Haynes manual, they say minimum oil pressure at 750rpm engine hot is 14.5psi, and 40psi at 2000rpm when hot. .
Last edited by GVK.; 05-07-2020 at 08:15 AM.
#11
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Remember having to clean loads of cvh's back in the day when the strainer blocked up and all the breathers blocked, many unhappy hours doing those. Once they had the black death in the head as you say never sounded right after.
#12
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Hope the pressure gauge arrives the morra will post back let yous know but it is like a tap.
Cheers
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#16
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It could be so many things.
Could be a
-faulty oil pressure gauge
-knackered oil pump
-blocked oil feeds
-blocked strainer
-worn mains
-worn big ends
-worn cam journals
and a few other items.
You can whip the big end bearings off easily enough without dropping the engine if you wanna take a gander. Equally swapping the pump can be done in situ (bit fiddly but not that bad) if you want to take a chance, but if its been running at genuinely 10psi cold, then damage will definitely have been done. A couple of degrees and that oil/engine must have been running at as good as 0psi
Could be a
-faulty oil pressure gauge
-knackered oil pump
-blocked oil feeds
-blocked strainer
-worn mains
-worn big ends
-worn cam journals
and a few other items.
You can whip the big end bearings off easily enough without dropping the engine if you wanna take a gander. Equally swapping the pump can be done in situ (bit fiddly but not that bad) if you want to take a chance, but if its been running at genuinely 10psi cold, then damage will definitely have been done. A couple of degrees and that oil/engine must have been running at as good as 0psi
#17
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Its a brand new gauge ( although cheap)
Cleaned the strainer already.
Forgot to mention the low oil light isnt actually on , it seems like a very small amount getting to head , and the new tappets ( and old ones ) are noisy.
When the old tappets started ticking i got the head done , havent drove about with it rattling.
Also still have a hard time starting it when its cold , all good when you lift the flap under metering head.
Cheers.
Cleaned the strainer already.
Forgot to mention the low oil light isnt actually on , it seems like a very small amount getting to head , and the new tappets ( and old ones ) are noisy.
When the old tappets started ticking i got the head done , havent drove about with it rattling.
Also still have a hard time starting it when its cold , all good when you lift the flap under metering head.
Cheers.
#18
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the std ford oil light is no use when thst comes on its dead anyways.. 10psi cold the engine is in need of full build and i would get a better upgraded oil pump saying your on that way it will be sorted mate.. or other route could be zetec
#19
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#21
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Its a brand new gauge ( although cheap)
Cleaned the strainer already.
Forgot to mention the low oil light isnt actually on , it seems like a very small amount getting to head , and the new tappets ( and old ones ) are noisy.
When the old tappets started ticking i got the head done , havent drove about with it rattling.
Also still have a hard time starting it when its cold , all good when you lift the flap under metering head.
Cheers.
Cleaned the strainer already.
Forgot to mention the low oil light isnt actually on , it seems like a very small amount getting to head , and the new tappets ( and old ones ) are noisy.
When the old tappets started ticking i got the head done , havent drove about with it rattling.
Also still have a hard time starting it when its cold , all good when you lift the flap under metering head.
Cheers.
I know it would be nice to think theres an easy fix here but a proper strip down is the proper way to do it. Luckily the CVH can be rebuilt with your eyes shut and parts are still relatively inexpensive for a standard build.
#22
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A further point if you're just going to swap the pump - I really will be shocked if running cold 10psi hasnt equated to 0psi even semi-warm which means I'd be equally shocked if you havent got metal/swarf floating around all over the place. Whack a new pump on and you'll be throwing all that swarf through a brand new part. Even if the pump was the initial failure, the swarf is only going to cause premature failure of the new part.
If you were seeing 10psi hot I'd be less damning about it all and you'd probably get away with a loss less, but most CVH owners have been there, done that, learned the hard way
If you were seeing 10psi hot I'd be less damning about it all and you'd probably get away with a loss less, but most CVH owners have been there, done that, learned the hard way
#23
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A further point if you're just going to swap the pump - I really will be shocked if running cold 10psi hasnt equated to 0psi even semi-warm which means I'd be equally shocked if you havent got metal/swarf floating around all over the place. Whack a new pump on and you'll be throwing all that swarf through a brand new part. Even if the pump was the initial failure, the swarf is only going to cause premature failure of the new part.
If you were seeing 10psi hot I'd be less damning about it all and you'd probably get away with a loss less, but most CVH owners have been there, done that, learned the hard way
If you were seeing 10psi hot I'd be less damning about it all and you'd probably get away with a loss less, but most CVH owners have been there, done that, learned the hard way
#25
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Decided to get the experience of doing the oil pump but its just catching the end if the crank (about 2 mm ) , do i have to take the back off the oil pump? cheers.
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#28
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I think the only advice you could give is pull the motor out as its dead get it in a engine stand or on trolly and strip it bare.. i would think running no oil psi the bores will be dead so get it rebored with new pistons or try and find a recon bottom end.. how ever the head work you had done that maybe damaged now dependn how long its been run or drove with no oil psi the camshaft and lifters would of suffered
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