Are these shims worth fitting? I've heard they help to prevent tyre wear. Do they help with the handling??

 

They could help, but it depends on what your camber currently is. Toe is also really important for handling and tyre wear.

 

It's just a standard cossie rear axle with standard good condition bushes in the arms and poly bushes beam and diff mount.

 

As I said before when you asked Glenn a must to correct the negative camber as much as possible, it's the best you will get without fitting an adjustable beam.
Just had mine fitted.These are what I purchased.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Sierr...53.m1438.l2649

Thanks. Lee.

 

The camber depends mostly on the ride height. If it's not very low you don't need the camber shims. I would try to get the camber close to -1.5 degrees. In the past I have done that by putting large washers in between the bearing carrier and arm. That way you can tune it better than with just a single shim.

 

I fitted the shims on my XR4x4 as I am running -30 mm springs. Tyre wear is now even where it used to scrub out the inner edges of the tyres.

 

Thanks for that info. Nice and simple like me lol.

 

Worth a try Glenn if you don’t fancy paying out for a beam. I do wonder when you fit these are they machined around the bolt holes on the shim so the bolt head bolts up to a flat surface?

 

I’ve got some anti camber shims
Not used
Ł30 delivered

 

I got on mine. If you lowered you need.. I got 2,7° camber i rear and 2,5° in front. And i got som lowered.

Regards/Jonas

 

I've always thought that the bolts might sit at a funny angle.

 

PMed mate.

 

Not hard to find someone with a milling machine to mill the hub carrier out a little unless you can find some wedge shaped washers

 

That' exactly what I have done when I ditched the back plates to for 4x4 rear brakes.
I am on std ride height with std springs and konis set to mid. Straight line grip isn't bad and tyre wear is good.
Lee will agree it hooks up well.

 

You can buy wedge washers for M10 bolts on eBay for peanuts.
As Marc will say it makes very little difference on bolt mounting.

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.de%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F391 083741542

 

Personally I’d still like the bolt to torque up on a flat surface rather than a hub carrier sat at a slight angle. If it’s your your car and it’s apart anyway you may as well get the wedge washer and do it properly

 

Andy we are talking very minimal amount I personally am fine with it. And all chamber shims are not supplied with wedge washers.

Hey at least they are bolted on with original bolts unlike the Buffty boys who use stainless bolts😂

 

I’m just a funny cunt lol getting to picky with older age

 

Oh yes indeed Paul..lol.

CheeRS.Lee.

 

Lmfao.
The only way thinking about it being perfect as the hubs have round spot faces on them, Is to mount them on a mill with the said shim under it and re spot face the 4 mounting holes.

seems like a big faff imo.

 

Can you repost that link matey.

I was thinking about sorting some washers out for the bolts.

 

Its not working for me Glenn as I do everything on my phone.

just search eBay for M10 wedge washers. Bit tbh I don't think they will work as the hub has counter bored faces.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M10-Taper...xINcVMLF0g-22w

 

Better option:
https://www.elesa-ganter.com/product...eries/din-6319

Spherical washers.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GRAINGER-...cAAOSwopRYduSr

 

But when you use both halves together you end up back at square one do you not?

 

You can angle them like setting the brakes up on a mountain bike

 

If you are going to use wedged washers the angle on the washer needs to be the same as the angle on the camber shims, otherwise you might make an even bigger angle the other way.


I'm not sure how much camber the camber shims actually correct, but I think correcting 1 degree of camber will in most cases be enough. If you correct 1 degree of camber with shims or washers, the difference over a bolt head of 2 cm wide is only 0.35 mm. So your wedged washer should be 0.35 mm thicker on one side than on the other. Personally I don't think it will be an issue just putting the normal bolts back in without any special wedged washers. And I have driven my car like that for probably 50k to 100k miles.

 

Well I will see what the crack is with the shims when I get them and get them fitted

 

To reduce the rear negative camber you can quite simply slot the inner semi trail arm inner pivot mounting point upward.

 

Ah the voice of much experience Tony, very interesting info.

CheeRS.Lee.

 

a few pals of mine at festival park ran around in 2wd cossies like this back in the day