Cosworth ticking under load after oil change?
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Was using Castrol 10W60 on my newly built engine, now 20k on it, all along.
Decided to change to Fuchs Titan Pro S 10W50 as it's a popular choice on here and ever since then there's a ticking sound, tick tick tick, under load. Can't hear it when boost comes on because air filter is too loud.
No ticking on idle, no ticking when I rev the car at idle, can't hear anything on boost, it's only under load from around 1k to 3k rpm.
Used engine flush, emptied old oil and changed the oil to Mobil 1 10W60 today and ticking still there.
Tappets were newly installed at the time of the build so don't think it's them, but I'm no expert.
I put Wynns hydraulic valve lifter treatment in too, still the same.
Heard that it could be pinking also but I don't know how to tell.
Haven't checked fuel pump voltage yet, that's tomorrow.
Anyone have any idea please?
Cheers,
Philip.
Decided to change to Fuchs Titan Pro S 10W50 as it's a popular choice on here and ever since then there's a ticking sound, tick tick tick, under load. Can't hear it when boost comes on because air filter is too loud.
No ticking on idle, no ticking when I rev the car at idle, can't hear anything on boost, it's only under load from around 1k to 3k rpm.
Used engine flush, emptied old oil and changed the oil to Mobil 1 10W60 today and ticking still there.
Tappets were newly installed at the time of the build so don't think it's them, but I'm no expert.
I put Wynns hydraulic valve lifter treatment in too, still the same.
Heard that it could be pinking also but I don't know how to tell.
Haven't checked fuel pump voltage yet, that's tomorrow.
Anyone have any idea please?
Cheers,
Philip.
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Well you need to determine if it is det,and be very careful.
i would always advise you run octane boosters at that power level with your unpredictable fuel quality over there to be safe.
i would always advise you run octane boosters at that power level with your unpredictable fuel quality over there to be safe.
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OK James.
How would I detect detonation?
Is there a procedure you have for checking it or what else can I do to troubleshoot the problem...?
I use octane booster as much as I can.
Cheers.
How would I detect detonation?
Is there a procedure you have for checking it or what else can I do to troubleshoot the problem...?
I use octane booster as much as I can.
Cheers.
You will need det cans really, or just need to know what det sounds like, the issue is if it is detting then your engine will fail very quickly, so you need to be very careful and i would advise a pro checks it over.
Running octane booster is a good idea, but you have to do it all the time, when your not using it will be the time you blow the old girl up.
Running octane booster is a good idea, but you have to do it all the time, when your not using it will be the time you blow the old girl up.
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Super 
Engine builder will look at it Wednesday.
Strange that it came into the engine just after I changed the oil.
I had it draining for almost an hour because I got called away, if that would make any difference....tappets ran bone dry???
I'll see what the mechanic says Wednesday.
Piston slap maybe? It would help if I knew all these bloody sounds
Cheers.
Philip.

Engine builder will look at it Wednesday.
Strange that it came into the engine just after I changed the oil.
I had it draining for almost an hour because I got called away, if that would make any difference....tappets ran bone dry???
I'll see what the mechanic says Wednesday.
Piston slap maybe? It would help if I knew all these bloody sounds

Cheers.
Philip.
It may not be detting at all which is why you really need someone to look over it,
It may well be lifter noise etc, But noises under load always need care and looking at in detail to avoid damage really.
It may well be lifter noise etc, But noises under load always need care and looking at in detail to avoid damage really.
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Understood James, I know it needs to be looked at immediately.
Should have an update this week.
Thanks for the tips
If there's anything else I can do to try and diagnose the problem before carrying it to the builder, feel free to enlighten me!
Alternator was the only thing changed in the last 3 months.
Cheers.
Philip.
Should have an update this week.
Thanks for the tips

If there's anything else I can do to try and diagnose the problem before carrying it to the builder, feel free to enlighten me!
Alternator was the only thing changed in the last 3 months.
Cheers.
Philip.
Well make sure the charge voltage is stable and high enough under load,
other than that, really just get her checked over to find out what the noise is, and go from there, it certainly didn't det here, so if it is detting i would instantly look into fuel grade as an issue,
other than that, really just get her checked over to find out what the noise is, and go from there, it certainly didn't det here, so if it is detting i would instantly look into fuel grade as an issue,
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The V gauge in the car never drops below 14V while driving and under full boost.
14.2V at the battery at idle.
13.2V at fuel pump at full boost 4000rpm in 4th.
Voltages look OK so I presume the alternator is fine.
It sounds like possibly metal tapping or a ticking noise, only when warm, not at cold?!?
Maybe something has come loose in the head............
Losing a few screws myself lately haha
14.2V at the battery at idle.
13.2V at fuel pump at full boost 4000rpm in 4th.
Voltages look OK so I presume the alternator is fine.
It sounds like possibly metal tapping or a ticking noise, only when warm, not at cold?!?

Maybe something has come loose in the head............

Losing a few screws myself lately haha
if its been detting badly it is possible that it has left debris on a plug-pull one out and have a look -use magnifying glass and see if any very minute metal globules on plug-this isnt a definitive test but for the two mins it takes its worth it
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It turns out one of the exhaust manifold bolts (genuine OE Ford) snapped. Nut and washer gone. The front one's near the cambelt also came loose. Tightened them up and boom, ticking gone.
New M10 bolt being installed next week so manifold off and on again....fuppin 3rd time this year



I think a major contributory factor to the breakage was the rose joint on the stage 1 turbo bailey hanger. It wasn't supporting the weight of the T34 and exhaust so I guess, it stressed it out too much. Loads of info on here about that.
Next step is an RS500 damper and spec-r 4X4 head bracket.....only £300 +
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