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How do you tell if a car is mapped or not

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Old Nov 5, 2013 | 10:15 PM
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Default How do you tell if a car is mapped or not

Obviously there are insurance issues if you had an accident and never knew the car was mapped etc .....

But what if you where told it was mapped and there is no receipt to prove how would you know for sure?

My engine light is on and I was told this was because it was mapped I suspect this is bollox but I had it checked by a mate after replacing a few bits we cleared the light it's came back on but with no codes would a map cause this if so would it be worth getting it mapped again to get the light off?

Last edited by turbochild; Nov 5, 2013 at 10:17 PM.
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Old Nov 5, 2013 | 10:22 PM
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Surely if the light is on there must be a fault code? Have you give it chance to log a code by ignition cycle on/run/off a few times?

Assume this is on the Octavia VRS?

To see if it's mapped,one test, is to do a vag-com/vcds MAF airflow test on the live data measuring blocks.

You can roughly work out the bhp from the airflow. (providing the MAF is good)

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Fuel_Trim_Info

Here's a good sanity check for the status of your MAF. Do a full-throttle run all the way to redline in a single gear (second works fine). Group 002 usually shows air mass in g/s (in many modern ECU's, consult your Factory Repair Manual for the specific group for your particular vehicle). Your peak airflow should be roughly 0.80 times your horsepower if you are close to sea level. So, if you have a stock 150 hp 1.8T, expect around 120 g/s. If you see significantly less than that, you MAF may be on the way out. Also note that airflow will be markedly different at higher altitudes due to reduced ambient air pressure, especially with naturally aspirated engines that do not have forced induction to overcome that deficiency. This still works if you are chipped, but "race" programs may make more power through timing, rather than airflow. Therefore, take all readings with a grain of salt.
150hp should see 120 g/s , so that's 120 divided by 0.8 = 150
180hp should see 144 g/s
225hp should see 180 g/s
250hp should see 200 g/s

You get the idea.

Another check is to test the boost pressure, pretty sure most 1.8ts stock run around 0.6-0.8bar.

Further than that you need someone who knows what they're doing with remap files to pull the software off the car and go through it to see if it's stock or 'tuned'.

Last edited by GVK.; Nov 5, 2013 at 10:42 PM.
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Old Nov 5, 2013 | 11:08 PM
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It'll shit all over a standard version.


Cheers,
Grant
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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by GVK.
Surely if the light is on there must be a fault code? Have you give it chance to log a code by ignition cycle on/run/off a few times?

Assume this is on the Octavia VRS?

To see if it's mapped,one test, is to do a vag-com/vcds MAF airflow test on the live data measuring blocks.

You can roughly work out the bhp from the airflow. (providing the MAF is good)

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Fuel_Trim_Info



150hp should see 120 g/s , so that's 120 divided by 0.8 = 150
180hp should see 144 g/s
225hp should see 180 g/s
250hp should see 200 g/s

You get the idea.

Another check is to test the boost pressure, pretty sure most 1.8ts stock run around 0.6-0.8bar.

Further than that you need someone who knows what they're doing with remap files to pull the software off the car and go through it to see if it's stock or 'tuned'.
Sorry yeah it is the vrs have the oil light issue sorted was a sensor but done the pick up pipe and strainer as a precaution gave it a service reset the lights and they stayed off for a few miles then the engine light came on so got my mate to check it no codes I'll try again tomorrow he only has an obd reader thing off eBay if it shows nothing up I'll try get it looked at more in depth I'm lost with the whole figures part but I'm sure they will make sence to my mate! Cheers for your help
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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by RS Grant
It'll shit all over a standard version.


Cheers,
Grant
There is always that Grant plus an explanation that made sence just need to find a standard one lol
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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 09:03 AM
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has it got a de cat on?
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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 09:58 AM
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as the engine lights on...when its warm,
does the water temp gauge sit in the middle at 90?
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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by turbochild
Sorry yeah it is the vrs have the oil light issue sorted was a sensor but done the pick up pipe and strainer as a precaution gave it a service reset the lights and they stayed off for a few miles then the engine light came on so got my mate to check it no codes I'll try again tomorrow he only has an obd reader thing off eBay if it shows nothing up I'll try get it looked at more in depth I'm lost with the whole figures part but I'm sure they will make sence to my mate! Cheers for your help
If he only has an ebay OBD reader, it'll only pick up faults from the engine module. The light can come on with faults from various modules.
Get someone to scan it with VCDS
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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 10:39 AM
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The only way to see if the file has been modified from standard is to read it and compare it to an original file.

Some changes in the file may cause various issues but not increase performance.You may even find some of the DTC structure has been deleted.

Last edited by James @ M Developments.; Nov 6, 2013 at 10:58 AM.
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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by rsminter
as the engine lights on...when its warm,
does the water temp gauge sit in the middle at 90?
The temp gauge sits at 90 which I assumed would be normal
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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 12:58 PM
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yes thats normal so your coolant temp sensor and thermostat is ok.
get yourself one of these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2211215900...84.m1423.l2649
then download the free version from ross-tech
should throw up a fault code then
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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 01:22 PM
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Vag-Com from http://dx.com/p/jtron-090035-can-vag...l-black-232902
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