BMW X5 - anything to look out for?
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BMW X5 - anything to look out for?
Hi all,
Going to look at one of these tomorrow with a view to buy.
It's a 53 plate with 83k on the clock. It's the 3.0d sport auto.
Basically does anyone on here know of anything I should be looking out for?
All comments good and bad much appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Going to look at one of these tomorrow with a view to buy.
It's a 53 plate with 83k on the clock. It's the 3.0d sport auto.
Basically does anyone on here know of anything I should be looking out for?
All comments good and bad much appreciated.
Thanks in advance
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From: North Shields
Thread Starter
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From: North Shields
They also eat front lower suspension joints and drop links, and rear trailing arm bushes wear out pretty quick too..
And make sure you change the engine oil breather cartridge every service, this can block causing turbo failure.
Apart from that they pretty good
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ah yes the E53.. where to start
good cars but most of the owners treat them like crap and batter them over speedbumps with little to zero mechanical sympathy.
power steering high pressure pipes are prone to becoming porous (sp?) and start leaking. bit of a pain to replace due to the way the undertray setup works but any mechanic worth their salt will manage fine
check the intercooler hoses haven't come loose of leak at the joins to the cooler itself. you get replaceable o-rings for these so not a major issue
front arm bushes. at that mileage these will need done if they haven't already been. makes the steering vague, feels awful over bumps and can give the sensation your front discs are warped when they actually aren't. rarely get failed on an mot as the undertray obscures them from view, thankfully the bushes can be replaced seperately from the arms and their not too bad a diy job with access to decent hydraulic press
rear subframe/axle carrier bushes, if these haven't been done they will most likely be hanging out, if you hear a thump from the underside when flooring it from a standstill then these are almost always the culprit, need the special toolkit ideally to replace them as dropping the rear axle would take quite some time
rear brake hoses flexis. these have a solid pipe between two rubber sections and the solid pipe is clipped onto one of the suspension arms and relatively covered by the plastic holder and quite hard to see with the wheel on. make no mistake these rot very quickly and because of where they are most mot testers will not see them. take the rear wheels off ideally and inspect (can't find any pictures sorry)
check rear tyre wear, they are prone to wearing the inner edges of the tyres due to suspension wear or misalignment,
check the handbrake actually holds (because most are automatic nobody really uses there handbrake) they tend to gum up/seize after a few years.
any noises like a horrificly squeaky bed coming from the back of the car are almost certainly the bottom ball joints.
check the gearbox sump for any signs of leakage. their generally made of plastic and have a tendancy to warp and start leaking but then again ideal time to do a gearbox oil change
check the downpipe flexi sections for splitting or damage.The downpipes have the cats on them and cost about £500-600 iirc for the parts alone
check the rear bulb holder contatcs for signs of corrosion/melting/arcing. new holders generally rectify this but sometimes you need to do the clusters too
does the rear suspension sit level (air suspension as standard on the rear axle on uk models and on the front as an option, pretty costly if it goes wrong.
change the crankcase breather/filter assembly with an oil change asap unless it has a definitive record of this having been changed regularly it can clog up and cause turbo failures
check the digital displays on the radio and the instrument cluster (the orange dotmatrix stuff) bmw will tell you it needs a new cluster or radio if these fail £600 odd plus programming for the clusters (if the mileage is unreadable its an mot fail) but there is a company that repairs them though i can't remember who you should be able to google it no bother
thats all i can remember of the top of my head. it sounds bad but this is because i worked in 2 main dealers so i got to see they're worst, and like i said the owners very rarely look after them
hope this helps
good cars but most of the owners treat them like crap and batter them over speedbumps with little to zero mechanical sympathy.
power steering high pressure pipes are prone to becoming porous (sp?) and start leaking. bit of a pain to replace due to the way the undertray setup works but any mechanic worth their salt will manage fine
check the intercooler hoses haven't come loose of leak at the joins to the cooler itself. you get replaceable o-rings for these so not a major issue
front arm bushes. at that mileage these will need done if they haven't already been. makes the steering vague, feels awful over bumps and can give the sensation your front discs are warped when they actually aren't. rarely get failed on an mot as the undertray obscures them from view, thankfully the bushes can be replaced seperately from the arms and their not too bad a diy job with access to decent hydraulic press
rear subframe/axle carrier bushes, if these haven't been done they will most likely be hanging out, if you hear a thump from the underside when flooring it from a standstill then these are almost always the culprit, need the special toolkit ideally to replace them as dropping the rear axle would take quite some time
rear brake hoses flexis. these have a solid pipe between two rubber sections and the solid pipe is clipped onto one of the suspension arms and relatively covered by the plastic holder and quite hard to see with the wheel on. make no mistake these rot very quickly and because of where they are most mot testers will not see them. take the rear wheels off ideally and inspect (can't find any pictures sorry)
check rear tyre wear, they are prone to wearing the inner edges of the tyres due to suspension wear or misalignment,
check the handbrake actually holds (because most are automatic nobody really uses there handbrake) they tend to gum up/seize after a few years.
any noises like a horrificly squeaky bed coming from the back of the car are almost certainly the bottom ball joints.
check the gearbox sump for any signs of leakage. their generally made of plastic and have a tendancy to warp and start leaking but then again ideal time to do a gearbox oil change
check the downpipe flexi sections for splitting or damage.The downpipes have the cats on them and cost about £500-600 iirc for the parts alone
check the rear bulb holder contatcs for signs of corrosion/melting/arcing. new holders generally rectify this but sometimes you need to do the clusters too
does the rear suspension sit level (air suspension as standard on the rear axle on uk models and on the front as an option, pretty costly if it goes wrong.
change the crankcase breather/filter assembly with an oil change asap unless it has a definitive record of this having been changed regularly it can clog up and cause turbo failures
check the digital displays on the radio and the instrument cluster (the orange dotmatrix stuff) bmw will tell you it needs a new cluster or radio if these fail £600 odd plus programming for the clusters (if the mileage is unreadable its an mot fail) but there is a company that repairs them though i can't remember who you should be able to google it no bother
thats all i can remember of the top of my head. it sounds bad but this is because i worked in 2 main dealers so i got to see they're worst, and like i said the owners very rarely look after them
hope this helps
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Change the gearbox oil and filter as soon as you get it and every 50K after that....
They also eat front lower suspension joints and drop links, and rear trailing arm bushes wear out pretty quick too..
And make sure you change the engine oil breather cartridge every service, this can block causing turbo failure.
Apart from that they pretty good
They also eat front lower suspension joints and drop links, and rear trailing arm bushes wear out pretty quick too..
And make sure you change the engine oil breather cartridge every service, this can block causing turbo failure.
Apart from that they pretty good
The car is at a dealer and bog standard so I'm hoping it has t had a hard life.
Proof is in the pudding thoug, going to drive it tomorrow so well find out!
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ah yes the E53.. where to start
good cars but most of the owners treat them like crap and batter them over speedbumps with little to zero mechanical sympathy.
power steering high pressure pipes are prone to becoming porous (sp?) and start leaking. bit of a pain to replace due to the way the undertray setup works but any mechanic worth their salt will manage fine
check the intercooler hoses haven't come loose of leak at the joins to the cooler itself. you get replaceable o-rings for these so not a major issue
front arm bushes. at that mileage these will need done if they haven't already been. makes the steering vague, feels awful over bumps and can give the sensation your front discs are warped when they actually aren't. rarely get failed on an mot as the undertray obscures them from view, thankfully the bushes can be replaced seperately from the arms and their not too bad a diy job with access to decent hydraulic press
rear subframe/axle carrier bushes, if these haven't been done they will most likely be hanging out, if you hear a thump from the underside when flooring it from a standstill then these are almost always the culprit, need the special toolkit ideally to replace them as dropping the rear axle would take quite some time
rear brake hoses flexis. these have a solid pipe between two rubber sections and the solid pipe is clipped onto one of the suspension arms and relatively covered by the plastic holder and quite hard to see with the wheel on. make no mistake these rot very quickly and because of where they are most mot testers will not see them. take the rear wheels off ideally and inspect (can't find any pictures sorry)
check rear tyre wear, they are prone to wearing the inner edges of the tyres due to suspension wear or misalignment,
check the handbrake actually holds (because most are automatic nobody really uses there handbrake) they tend to gum up/seize after a few years.
any noises like a horrificly squeaky bed coming from the back of the car are almost certainly the bottom ball joints.
check the gearbox sump for any signs of leakage. their generally made of plastic and have a tendancy to warp and start leaking but then again ideal time to do a gearbox oil change
check the downpipe flexi sections for splitting or damage.The downpipes have the cats on them and cost about £500-600 iirc for the parts alone
check the rear bulb holder contatcs for signs of corrosion/melting/arcing. new holders generally rectify this but sometimes you need to do the clusters too
does the rear suspension sit level (air suspension as standard on the rear axle on uk models and on the front as an option, pretty costly if it goes wrong.
change the crankcase breather/filter assembly with an oil change asap unless it has a definitive record of this having been changed regularly it can clog up and cause turbo failures
check the digital displays on the radio and the instrument cluster (the orange dotmatrix stuff) bmw will tell you it needs a new cluster or radio if these fail £600 odd plus programming for the clusters (if the mileage is unreadable its an mot fail) but there is a company that repairs them though i can't remember who you should be able to google it no bother
thats all i can remember of the top of my head. it sounds bad but this is because i worked in 2 main dealers so i got to see they're worst, and like i said the owners very rarely look after them
hope this helps
good cars but most of the owners treat them like crap and batter them over speedbumps with little to zero mechanical sympathy.
power steering high pressure pipes are prone to becoming porous (sp?) and start leaking. bit of a pain to replace due to the way the undertray setup works but any mechanic worth their salt will manage fine
check the intercooler hoses haven't come loose of leak at the joins to the cooler itself. you get replaceable o-rings for these so not a major issue
front arm bushes. at that mileage these will need done if they haven't already been. makes the steering vague, feels awful over bumps and can give the sensation your front discs are warped when they actually aren't. rarely get failed on an mot as the undertray obscures them from view, thankfully the bushes can be replaced seperately from the arms and their not too bad a diy job with access to decent hydraulic press
rear subframe/axle carrier bushes, if these haven't been done they will most likely be hanging out, if you hear a thump from the underside when flooring it from a standstill then these are almost always the culprit, need the special toolkit ideally to replace them as dropping the rear axle would take quite some time
rear brake hoses flexis. these have a solid pipe between two rubber sections and the solid pipe is clipped onto one of the suspension arms and relatively covered by the plastic holder and quite hard to see with the wheel on. make no mistake these rot very quickly and because of where they are most mot testers will not see them. take the rear wheels off ideally and inspect (can't find any pictures sorry)
check rear tyre wear, they are prone to wearing the inner edges of the tyres due to suspension wear or misalignment,
check the handbrake actually holds (because most are automatic nobody really uses there handbrake) they tend to gum up/seize after a few years.
any noises like a horrificly squeaky bed coming from the back of the car are almost certainly the bottom ball joints.
check the gearbox sump for any signs of leakage. their generally made of plastic and have a tendancy to warp and start leaking but then again ideal time to do a gearbox oil change
check the downpipe flexi sections for splitting or damage.The downpipes have the cats on them and cost about £500-600 iirc for the parts alone
check the rear bulb holder contatcs for signs of corrosion/melting/arcing. new holders generally rectify this but sometimes you need to do the clusters too
does the rear suspension sit level (air suspension as standard on the rear axle on uk models and on the front as an option, pretty costly if it goes wrong.
change the crankcase breather/filter assembly with an oil change asap unless it has a definitive record of this having been changed regularly it can clog up and cause turbo failures
check the digital displays on the radio and the instrument cluster (the orange dotmatrix stuff) bmw will tell you it needs a new cluster or radio if these fail £600 odd plus programming for the clusters (if the mileage is unreadable its an mot fail) but there is a company that repairs them though i can't remember who you should be able to google it no bother
thats all i can remember of the top of my head. it sounds bad but this is because i worked in 2 main dealers so i got to see they're worst, and like i said the owners very rarely look after them
hope this helps
I've not really looked into these before as they tend to be rough and ready.
This one caught my eye as its low ish mileage, there's zero rust, not even on the tailgate and the interior is like new.
in the garage
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From: sheffield
+1 on the gearbox issue they run the same auto box as the early lm range rover and we seem to be changing a lot of boxs at work due to torque converter and oil pump failure. Seems to be happening a lot to x5's aswell according to the local gearbox place near my work. There not cheap either mate 3k + vat new or 1400 reconditioned luck of the draw really though pal. Cheers.
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From: Rouse Sport heaven ;)
simply put,
every car is riddled with possible faults
drive it, listen, touch and feel everything. (not the seller lol )
get an RAC/AA inspection or, take it to an independant specialist for a health check, not the dealers.
generally good motors, just cunts dont look after them, hence all the above faults get left untill its fucked with lists and lists
plenty about, dont buy the first one you see
4.8iS, best 4x4 i have ever driven, absolutle rocketship, drove the tits, and i dont like 4x4 types, but id have my missus and kids in one, no probs
every car is riddled with possible faults
drive it, listen, touch and feel everything. (not the seller lol )
get an RAC/AA inspection or, take it to an independant specialist for a health check, not the dealers.
generally good motors, just cunts dont look after them, hence all the above faults get left untill its fucked with lists and lists
plenty about, dont buy the first one you see
4.8iS, best 4x4 i have ever driven, absolutle rocketship, drove the tits, and i dont like 4x4 types, but id have my missus and kids in one, no probs
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Thanks for all the replys so far guys!
Really is a big help and much appreciated!
Going to look at a few today....
The million dollar question though is...petrol or diesel?
Personally I'm all for the oil burners but the 3.0i petrol is coming up quite cheap.
What would be your preference and why?
Really is a big help and much appreciated!
Going to look at a few today....
The million dollar question though is...petrol or diesel?
Personally I'm all for the oil burners but the 3.0i petrol is coming up quite cheap.
What would be your preference and why?
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Thanks for all the replys so far guys!
Really is a big help and much appreciated!
Going to look at a few today....
The million dollar question though is...petrol or diesel?
Personally I'm all for the oil burners but the 3.0i petrol is coming up quite cheap.
What would be your preference and why?
Really is a big help and much appreciated!
Going to look at a few today....
The million dollar question though is...petrol or diesel?
Personally I'm all for the oil burners but the 3.0i petrol is coming up quite cheap.
What would be your preference and why?
Sod putting fuel in a non oil-burning 4x4 - particularly when the one in question comes with a tidy 3ltr BMW tdi!
No question for me!
Tom
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Like I said, I'm biased toward the diesel but the petrol is coming up alot cheaper, just wanted to know the pro's and cons?
Some people have said the petrol can be as good on fuel as the diesel but I don't believe that for a second!
My experience of diesel is that regardless of how driven, they will return relatively good economy. Driven carefully and they are exceptionally good.
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If you dont do many miles in it then it could make financial sense to buy the petrol. You will get a better value newer car for same money... and probably better looked after.
Trouble with these cars now is that the older ones are that cheap now that they have slipped into the hands of people who dont look after them properly.... people who don't wanna pay for servicing and proper maintinece are the type who would only normally look at the Diesels because they don't wanna pay for fuelling a petrol...
In reality the difference on fuel is just not that much over a year unless you do proper miles.... one small problem with the higher mileage and more complicated turbo diesel engine will soon wipe out the difference!
My ex mrs had a brand new X5 3.0d.... I tried to pursuade her to swap it for a Cayenne Turbo... she said she would but the fuel difference would be ridiculous. I said go on... what you think it would be in a year then honey? She guessed £10,000.... per year extra on fuel...
I showed her the difference would be £400 with the school run miles she does!!! I SWEAR to this day she never believed me. I showed it to her on paper and on a calculator...
because of STUPID people like this... the price of the 3.0d is soooooo much higher than the petrol ones.
The 3.0d is a SWEET engine and suits the car lovely and if they were the SAME money and SAME condition spec etc... then yes get the TD, but thats not gonna happen..
so I'd get a really well looked after petrol one rather than a ratty ragged and high mileage diesel owned by someone who didn't like servicing it properly!
Trouble with these cars now is that the older ones are that cheap now that they have slipped into the hands of people who dont look after them properly.... people who don't wanna pay for servicing and proper maintinece are the type who would only normally look at the Diesels because they don't wanna pay for fuelling a petrol...
In reality the difference on fuel is just not that much over a year unless you do proper miles.... one small problem with the higher mileage and more complicated turbo diesel engine will soon wipe out the difference!
My ex mrs had a brand new X5 3.0d.... I tried to pursuade her to swap it for a Cayenne Turbo... she said she would but the fuel difference would be ridiculous. I said go on... what you think it would be in a year then honey? She guessed £10,000.... per year extra on fuel...
I showed her the difference would be £400 with the school run miles she does!!! I SWEAR to this day she never believed me. I showed it to her on paper and on a calculator...
because of STUPID people like this... the price of the 3.0d is soooooo much higher than the petrol ones.
The 3.0d is a SWEET engine and suits the car lovely and if they were the SAME money and SAME condition spec etc... then yes get the TD, but thats not gonna happen..
so I'd get a really well looked after petrol one rather than a ratty ragged and high mileage diesel owned by someone who didn't like servicing it properly!
Last edited by Porkie; Oct 26, 2012 at 12:39 PM.
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plus the 4.4/4.6is come with heaps of extras over the diesel as standard. there are even LPG petrol ones out there too.
one of the guys who comes jetsking his a 4.6is LPG and does 20k a year in it but said it drives far nicer than the diesel he had and twice as quick.
bit worse on fuel but the LPG balances that out.
one of the guys who comes jetsking his a 4.6is LPG and does 20k a year in it but said it drives far nicer than the diesel he had and twice as quick.
bit worse on fuel but the LPG balances that out.
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The 3.0l petrol is a good lump,you'd see 40mpg equivalent on LPG,shouldn't be more than £1500 to convert,you may even get a grant towards it.
Fancy one of these but I can't see what it does really that much better than my ml270 Cdi.
Love that x6 though.
Fancy one of these but I can't see what it does really that much better than my ml270 Cdi.
Love that x6 though.
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Well, drove a 55 plate 3.0d exclusive yesterday and an 05 plate 3.0i today.
Have to say they're both lovely cars to drive. The petrol is silky smooth and the diesel has loads of lovely torque!
Personally I think the diesel suits the car better as it feels more beefy, however the petrol had 10k less miles and was a whopping 2k cheaper!
Only thing I didn't like about the diesel was the daft 20" wheels as they ruined the ride IMO.
Fuel consumption was 19.6 ave on the petrol and 25.4 ave on the diesel so not much in it .
Personally I'd have the diesel but the plan is to find the best, lowest mileage car we can afford and not worry if its petrol or diesel!
Thanks for the replys so far people and if you think of any more pros/cons keep them coming!
Have to say they're both lovely cars to drive. The petrol is silky smooth and the diesel has loads of lovely torque!
Personally I think the diesel suits the car better as it feels more beefy, however the petrol had 10k less miles and was a whopping 2k cheaper!
Only thing I didn't like about the diesel was the daft 20" wheels as they ruined the ride IMO.
Fuel consumption was 19.6 ave on the petrol and 25.4 ave on the diesel so not much in it .
Personally I'd have the diesel but the plan is to find the best, lowest mileage car we can afford and not worry if its petrol or diesel!
Thanks for the replys so far people and if you think of any more pros/cons keep them coming!
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From: About that area....
Hi all,
Going to look at one of these tomorrow with a view to buy.
It's a 53 plate with 83k on the clock. It's the 3.0d sport auto.
Basically does anyone on here know of anything I should be looking out for?
All comments good and bad much appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Going to look at one of these tomorrow with a view to buy.
It's a 53 plate with 83k on the clock. It's the 3.0d sport auto.
Basically does anyone on here know of anything I should be looking out for?
All comments good and bad much appreciated.
Thanks in advance
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After much deliberation we can't decide between a very nice 54 plate 3.0d sport with all the toys, from a small independent dealer @ 10995.
OR
A fully specced up 3.0d sport on a 55 from stratstone @ 12495.
Probs going to go for the one from the main agent as their after sales service is superb.
OR
A fully specced up 3.0d sport on a 55 from stratstone @ 12495.
Probs going to go for the one from the main agent as their after sales service is superb.
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we are going to start lookinng for a reasonably big caravan soon so the tow car has been subject of conversation recently
now i know warriors and navaras are awful for engine reliability so we are considering the x5 route
i love our audi am i mad to be considering getting rid for a x5?
now i know warriors and navaras are awful for engine reliability so we are considering the x5 route
i love our audi am i mad to be considering getting rid for a x5?
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Well after looking at a good 10+ of these things.....most of which looked as if they'd been used as a work van!, we put a deposit down on a stone MINT estori blue, 55 plate, 3.0d sport 
Pick it up in about 10 days after the plate transfer.
Picks to follow shortly.
Pick it up in about 10 days after the plate transfer.
Picks to follow shortly.
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^^^^^^ sounds lovely and a great colour too.
I believe the facelift ones like yours have a far superior gearbox than the earlier ones as well so one less headache there.
If you look after them then I'm sure it'll last for years.
I believe the facelift ones like yours have a far superior gearbox than the earlier ones as well so one less headache there.
If you look after them then I'm sure it'll last for years.
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Few more questions, I want to change the crank case breather system. I did this on the wife's previous landy with the BMW td4 engine.
Can anyone give me part numbers or an idea where to buy the bits? And what should I expect to pay?
Next question is SWIRL FLAPS!..is the 55 plate fitted with them and should I be worried about them at 59k?
Last of all is about the 4wd system? I know the earlier cars were permanent but the later models were fitted with the xDrive system. Anyone know what year xDrive came out on the x5?
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the breather filter is cheaper to buy from land rover than bmw, im sure i paid £25 odd for the last one, as for swirl flaps if there there yank em out you will see when remove manifold to do the breather filter, justy watch you dont drop the rubber seals down a inlet, that might just be the 2.0 though, i cant remember off hand
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That's what I thought , found some info on the net that said xDrive was on the facelifted cars...I didn't think this was wright however.
Not bothered either way tbh, just curious as I like to know how to look after a mota properly. Was going to look into any neccesary maintenance on either system.
Not bothered either way tbh, just curious as I like to know how to look after a mota properly. Was going to look into any neccesary maintenance on either system.
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It's still on autotrader but we've 100% bought it. We paid cash and the dealer is in the process of transferring the Mrs' private plate over. As soon as that's done we'll be picking the car up
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the diesel averages 32-34mpg outside of town driving while the 3.0i just guzzles the whole time. the petrol is a good engine but in the x5 it just doesn't have the torque so you end up revving it all the time. also in relation to someone saying the trailing arm bushes wear out it doesn't have trailing arms so i think your dreaming..
gearboxes arent common failures but for the sake of an oil change it's not worth the risk.
swirl flaps were not fitted to the X5's i'm almost certain.
xdrive is a badging for 4wd on the current bmw's but x-drive was around for a good few years on earlier models. the drivetrain on them is very good
gearboxes arent common failures but for the sake of an oil change it's not worth the risk.
swirl flaps were not fitted to the X5's i'm almost certain.
xdrive is a badging for 4wd on the current bmw's but x-drive was around for a good few years on earlier models. the drivetrain on them is very good
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