Hi all

I'm having a few problems with my car. It just had the turbo redone recently (few 000 miles) and doesn't appear to be that.

Basically the car idles poorly (~750rpm) and if the car is reved to about 2000rpm then dropped to idle, the revs drop down below 750 then back up. If I try to move the car just on the clutch, it'll try to stall. All of which I believe is iscv (asked this before). Correct?

Also, at this moment as my car uses a standalone ecu set up and had no dv or recirc fitted as new, I'm seeing how the car runs with an atmospheric dv. It smells rich (has a decat

 

Check all vac pipes on back of inlet manifold

 

Did that first. Forgot to mention. Did the carb cleaner sprayed down the back test then used like a stethoscope of vac hose to listen for anything. Nothing both times. Reset Ecu which improved it a bit

 

Bump if anyone knows??

 

take it for a set up mate

can you not adjust the idle at the tb

 

Man with all the issues you've brought up about your car, you really need to take it to a reputable tuner to work out all the bugs. Cheaper and much less heartache in the long run.

But as for the issues you mentioned, I hope you've put proper plugs in it this time. Otherwise, check your ISCV and MAF sensors, as well as any hairline splits in vaccum hoses. Not that many of them, so check them all.

 

as above book it in, and try and ajust idle, check your speed sensor too

 

Idle is fine. I adjusted it off tb to 900rpm and is much happier. Is it normal for revs to rise slightly when pressing brake pedal firmly on a stationary idle? Sure I had put that question in which is what I really wanted to know.... Strange. Just wondering if it could be a brake vac leak.

It lost 500ml of coolant but no hg symptoms and hasn't dropped anymore that I've noticed. Is it possible for coolant to get into where the plugs are? Just as it splutters for a few seconds initially then not again til next morning and there is water or some fluid visible in exhaust tail pipe.

 

Mate, if u search on here you'll see my various rants and posts about either a problem with my focus or me having a go at a certain tuner etc etc..

My advice is, and this advice im giving you i beg you to take because i didnt and am still offroad after 3 years of heartache...and only now have given in to letting a tuner sort it for me but i may still have to go down the road which is the way i want to show you:

A) either have the pectel ecu unlocked and remapped at an approximate cost of Ł295 + vat for ecu clear reset ( i have been quoted this by cosworth/pi research) and have the pectel remapped by a REPUTABLE TUNER! Which is at an hourly rate plus VAT and it takes a good part of a day..

b) THIS IS THE ADVICE TOTD GAVE ME BUT I DIDNT TAKE "...we had a t230 in before and it gave us so much trouble. In the end it was the ecu! Once we replaced it there were no problems...." Those words will haunt me forever...so please mate START WITH THE ECU...

Please correct me on any info i have given people and also please excuse my grammar.

Just an additional note to anyone who may take notice....does anyone have a set of CHAMPION REC501C sparkplugs lying around for sale? these are the best plugs to use...NGK rs ones just crack..as for densos - theres so much misleading information out there..

 

Can't you use the denso for a focus rs?

 

Yeah, ive ended up using itv 22's........basically it turned out to be a faulty map sensor, fuel pump was on its way out and the wires i used to repair the coil to ecu connector were of a too high resistence so re-soldered with a new connector and et viola got all power back, wheels spinning etc after 6 long years of pissing about in my spare time lol HOWVER on my third go of putting my foot down with full boost THE CLUTCH WENT..HEY HEY NO SURPRISED AT ALL..................but all good ...................

 

Least you're getting there mate get an RS clutch in there