what size wheels whith the 30mm eibach springs
what size wheels should i go for if i use the 30mm eibach springs i don't want it to look like a monster truck and i don't want to go any lower as the speed bumps around here are mahoosive i have seen a focus with 18" on and has not been lowered and it looked shite
looking at the focus mk1 threads 17" seem acceptable with the 30mm eibach springs but i have a mk2 and things maby different i don't no witch way around to do things suspension 1st then alloys or other way around
thank you for that it dosent look as bad as i thought it would im still stuck beetween 17" and 18" and i have had this problem for the last 11 month's i keep changing my mind i really dont no witch way to go do they rub at all allso whats the width of the wheels and offset
thank you the picture really helps
thank you the picture really helps
Last edited by sykes2009; Oct 27, 2010 at 05:23 PM.
yeah that looks nice too cheers for the picture for 18" i was thinking some ronal areo's if i go for 17" it would be some black or white pro race 3's i have said before that the st wheels are a big option but i want to be different but i could be different with the st wheels by changing the colour but when i used a offset calculator they didnt fit as good as some other alloys i had seen so
on what to do really
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ET42 7.5"x18" on 225/40 tyres no rubbing at all....IMO with the price of 18's and 18" tyres now I'd defi go 18's, I think if your going to go 17" you need to go real low on the suspension.
Steve
Steve
i got the springs yesterday, my brother in law said he can get them fitted for Ł60 but he doesn't think that the axle alinement can be done is it necessarie im i even right in saying that it needs doing its what i read off the paper that came with the springs
lower it first, nowt worse than a tractor 
id go 18's personally
and yeah ypud be better off checking the tracking when its lowered as it can affect the camber and toe etc, an additional expensive but its better than scrubbing tyres
id go 18's personally
and yeah ypud be better off checking the tracking when its lowered as it can affect the camber and toe etc, an additional expensive but its better than scrubbing tyres
^^^ cheers, yeah im going to lower it first looks like i will have to find somebody else to do it how much do you reckon it will be for springs fitted and alignment,camber checked ect
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I had my rear blade suspension re aligned after fitting eibach springs its easily done on a 3d laser alignment machine, the BIG issue is that the ecentric bolts that are used to adjust the camber are very exposed to the elements and as such they seize up completely so if turned they end up ripping the lower track control arm bushing away from its casing. Your also meant to set the design ride height by loosening the lower track control arm bolts but these seize up also.
When i first fitted the springs the above happened when i tried to adjust the camber and set the ride height and it ended up with me dropping the rear suspension off the car completely and re-building it with new bolts, braided hoses, Poly bushes and having the lot painted and powder coated at a HUGE cost.
If you dont set the ride height then it puts extra twist on the track control arm bushes and they eventually rip away from the outer bush casing.
When i first fitted the springs the above happened when i tried to adjust the camber and set the ride height and it ended up with me dropping the rear suspension off the car completely and re-building it with new bolts, braided hoses, Poly bushes and having the lot painted and powder coated at a HUGE cost.
If you dont set the ride height then it puts extra twist on the track control arm bushes and they eventually rip away from the outer bush casing.
Last edited by Sp3no; Nov 10, 2010 at 01:29 PM.
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when the suspension arm moves it twists the bushing which is fine in standard form, thats one of the jobs of a bush. When you lower the car this puts extra strain or twist on the bushes so that over a short time they will wear out or delaminate from the outer casing, when you set the ride height you loosen the bolts that go through the bush's, lower the car to the ground till you achieve the correct clearance between bottom lower conrol arm and bottom of sub frame then tourqe them back up, this sets the position in suspension travel that strains the bush back to an acceptable stage. One of these bolts is ecentric with an ecentric washer on the rear, as you turn it the lower control arm is pushed out or in to adjust camber, if seized you cannot do this.
This is the propper way of doing it, the other way is to pry bar the rear arms down to drop the springs out then stick the new ones in and leave it like that but the geometry will be wrong and the bushes wont last long.
You hae a MK2 so chances are you will be able to undo the bolts no problem so you wont have to worry about anything i mentioned lol
This is the propper way of doing it, the other way is to pry bar the rear arms down to drop the springs out then stick the new ones in and leave it like that but the geometry will be wrong and the bushes wont last long.
You hae a MK2 so chances are you will be able to undo the bolts no problem so you wont have to worry about anything i mentioned lol
Last edited by Sp3no; Nov 11, 2010 at 12:38 PM.
thank you for explaining it to me if i have the option i would like to do it the correct way,or the best way
i dont suppose it will but could it help if i keep spraying some wd40 for a few days before it would get done
i dont suppose it will but could it help if i keep spraying some wd40 for a few days before it would get done
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