The YB's been staring at me from the corner of the garage too long now and determined to get it in before the end of summer.
Basically as cheap as I can do it! Not after mad power just a good reliable engine. Head will not be ported and it's had a very slight skim. Crank is balanced by GGR.
So....

High comp 12.1 pistons are coming in at around £375
NA newman fast road cams £300 or reprofiled kents £225
Maybe solid followers? fiesta diesels maybe... any idea of what model?
Inlet manifold £105
Machined cossie flywheel to mate to type 9 box £80
4-2-1 Exhaust manifold £239, is there a way to adapt a pinto manifold to fit???
A set of DHLA 40s with 36mm chokes, I have but will have 45s eventually.

These are new prices but always on the look out for second hand parts.
I have megajolt on my pinto that will be transfered over to look after the spark, proper wasted spark leads are £80 but apparently there are alternative HT leads that can be used that fit the coilpack but need a slight doctoring to fit the YB cam cover at 1/3 the price... any ideas?

So theres the guts of a grand and your thinking whats the point!!! It's gonna be shite!! But I'm so sold on having the YB in my capri there's no talkin to me!! Can sell all the excess cossie bits and the pinto and I may get half of it back.
Before you ask I had considered keeping it turbo but the engine came with no turbo, any electricals or ECU, no injectors, no intercooler, and no T5 box to handle the big torque, and with fabrication needed on gearbox mount and propshaft I thought NA is easier.

With the set-up I've described what BHP and Torque figs am I looking at? And any foreseeable problems...?
Anyone selling any of the bits I've listed?
Christ that was long.. Sorry
Thanks

 

Just sell it and use a better engine for n/a like a XE or a S2000 or a duratec

why have a boat anchor of a YB in there when you can get something lighter and cheaper to do the job instead?

 

I'm familiar with this set up as its based on a pinto bottom end, which is the only engine I've worked on... hense it will slot in where the pinto came out, very very simple. No fabrication, straight forward DIY job.

 

surely a zetec would be cheaper

 

you must port the head of a yb or it will be as much use as tits on a kipper, it was designed for turbo application from the outset and as such the ports just are not big enough to flow enough for even 180 bhp,
just noticed your using 40's ..no where near big enough you will get 150 bhp if your lucky and the engine will have as much torque as a warm fart..

steve

 

I see your points and the alternative engine choice would be better both for power and expense, but there is a lot more work and fabrication with mounts and the exhaust is on the other side, plus bell housing probs. This is more than I'm capable of .

The des hammill book says that an unported head would give a bhp fig of 170 with CR of 10:1 and 45s on a 36 choke.
So surely with all the mods i'm considering, I think that would be easily achievable?
This is actually my everyday car and anything over 170ish would be great, although I'm scared that the torque will be down compared to my pinto!
My van will be the daily run around when its off the road.

 

The exhaust isn't really any issue if using alternate make of engine, I know there are some bell housings to go between the red top vaux(XE ?) and the type 9 box so that's easy, engine mounts are so simple it's untrue, so long as you have access to welder, metal, drill grinder etc it's fairly simple, I made my dads to put V8 into his 4i in around 1 hour, used land rover cotton reel mount to go between metal mount on engine and the cross member, been ok for 6-7 years now.
tabetha

 

zetec it - plenty of people have used zetecs in old skool cars without issues

 

Zetecs look crap though And an ST170 setup isn't cheap.

I'd rather have the NA YB aswell. Please let us know how you get on as I'm planning a budgest aspo build soon.

 

Hi im doing a bugdet na cosworth for my mk2 should see 130-150bhp which will be enough for me at the min (Mine will be less than £500 in the car and running) with full alloy rs2000 gear

Then i can go for more or stick my yb turbo lump when i get a bigger garage to work in

I like the idea of a N/A Cosworth because as you say you can build up the engine and put it in on the standard engine mounts with no cutting/fabrication

And they look and sound the bollox

I wouldnt spend Thousands if i was you because you will only be let down and struggle to get the figures you want

1.8 diesel escort lifters are what you need or you can modify standard lifters to solids, then i would send your cams away to reprofiled

Get a nice set of adjustable pulleys, ashley manifold or look out for a second hand tony law one

Inlets are on ebay all the time for £60-£70 and stick the 40s on to get you going with cash put away for the 45 upgrade

Nice flywheel off ebay to fit the type 9

Then when your done enjoy. If you still want more put it up forsale and watch the rewards, people will pay considerably more for a car with a cosworth cam cover than a zetec

Fact

 

Encouragement


Will do! Where abouts are you?
I think a Cosworth under the bonnet looks very impressive too.
It aint gonna be cheap but all in, everything included it's gonna sting to about £1600 (thats all new parts, I know I'll get most stuff second hand so that'll save too) of which I'll get some back from surplus turbo bits and a 2.1 FR pinto.

 

Waow thats damn nice!!!! I've already found loads of used bits but the Irish puts the price up when it comes to delivery

 

Thats not mine that is just a companys show engine hence cheap pump and standard pulleys but it does look good

Do the hard work and say you will organise a courier yourself, plenty bargains out there

 

Indeed there is! Got a pair of piper verniers yesterday for 50 lid. Brand new never fitted

 

What socket do I need to remove the head bolts? Looking into the hole I can see a small allen key on the bolt with a large torx type nut going over it, what type and size is the nut? Are they reusable?

There's a Grp A type head gasket that was used in the rebuild can it be saved? Engine was never run.

Regarding taking the head off I take it its the same procedure as the pinto and with the cams is there a particular method to removal?

Anyone have a pdf of a workshop manual?

 

Just the dry sump setup on that costs about 3 times what he is saying he will do the whole engine for, that cant be the same one, lol

 

Just fit one of these !



I have to say though its no featherweight !

 

I would if I could!!!

Now that the cams are off some off, some of the hyd tappets are squashy and some not, should they all be in squashy mode when being refitted?
The ones with movement squeeze about 3-4 mm the solid ones dont budge at all, seems they're at their open position and wont compress. Whats best to do here?

 

The soft lifters will of drained out, the stiff ones will be full of oil still.

You can press the oil out of them by squeezing them.

 

Stick em in a vice?

 

Thats what I normally do yes, just put something on the face of them so it doesn't damage it.

 

Thanks! More mundane questions coming soon!

Would help if I had a PDF of work shop manual that covers a YB cosworth... Anyone??

 

There is a workshop manual in the technial section I believe, you need to upgrade to gold member to view it though.

 

I do have one, one second I'll check what size it is.

Edit, PM me your email address

 

true chip ,

but if he wanted to dry sump it theres a kit on the market , full twin scavenge ready to fit for less that 800 notes ,

 

Made by who Beefy ?

 

incuding the tank, the remote filter, the lines etc?

 

Probably Turbosport rubbish Chip

As you say complete setup is £1500 - £2000

 

So after buying a shit load of sockets I found the right one!! Took the rest back...

I've taken the head off and I'm concerned about the marks on the pistons
Previous owner said the head had a skim, too much I'm thinking.
I'm gonna be changing these anyway for HC ones so will it be ok??
I've ordered a set of callipers and will measure the thickness, whats an unskimmed head?

Cylinders 1&4 were spotless but 2&3 were oily, any ideas what is going on here?
Looks like the engine was fired up very briefly when out of the car. Maybe the timing was off which resulted in the contact marks.....

The last pic shows the chambers cleaned with a light rub.

One last thing, are the head nut and bolts reusable? I watched wheeler dealers (sorry!) and mr china put the head back on with the used ones

 

yes you can reuse arp head bolts

 

Looks like its been timed up wrong tbh

What cams were in it ?

Check the valves to make sure they are not bent, probably not but worth checking before you put it together.

Also water ( I believe ) would cause everything to look so clean so might of had a head gasket failure as it would be a bit strange for someone to clean only 2 pistons if they had pulled it apart for any reason before you got it.

No idea on head thickness, 138mm springs to mind as a ok figure but I am sure someone can confirm the minimum height, either way if its low you can use a thicker gasket to get over that

 

Both cams have ford stamped on them so I presume they are standard issue..
I should've checked properly but the 2 arrows on the cams were not horizontal about 1 tooth out from each other, no idea where the crank was... Doh!
It was never run for more than a min or two... after being rebuilt.
Why so oily? Gasket was like new....

Think I'll get the valves out for a check, put new stem seals on too maybe.
Thanks for the manual BTW...

 

I think most of the BD range of cams are just reprofiled standard cams or atleast some of them, either way if its been run or turned over a few teeth out then they will touch.

As for the centre 2 pistons is that oil or carbon build up ? oil on them could be valve stem seals or guides maybe.

No worries on the manual !

I'm sure someone on here will offer some advice as I'm not that familiar with a YB although it is a engine so not a whole lot different to anything I've worked on.

 

It's oil on the pistons.... it wiped off easily with a dry towel.. and the chamber is more carbon based.. took a bit of oil to remove it The exhaust manifold spilled out oil when it was removed and left upside down?

Edit- what clearance should I have down the side of the piston and wall? should it be the same for every quarter way round... maybe the oil was coming up from the bottom

 

Head went for pressure test today and all was good.

Got an engine stand so work started on the bottom.
Crank out and pistons too.
Heres a few pics of the bearings, are they useable or shot? Never seen these before so I dont know.
They all look similar. Have +.5 written on back
Was told these were new not that long ago.... who knows??









Info and opinions welcome...

 

good engine build you have going here, just found this thread on google as was thinking of doing the same, any chance you have it built yet?