For anyone interested in Ka Sport IB5 Gearbox fitting...
Reason for fitment is that it's a stronger box than our BC box's, larger bearings, much more ribbed bell housing, which all helps prevent shaft movement under high torque loads resulting in broken teeth and snapped shafts 
It also has a built in hydraulic release bearing so no more heavy pedal when running a proper clutch or snapping cables
Using a couple of spare blocks I had, a spare BC box, and my Ka box I offered it up....
The gearbox bolts up fine, although it does have one bolt hole missing compared to a BC box (upper left, see pics).
The cradle also bolts up to the IB5 fine, but it is tilted up at the back compared to the BC box, this would result in the engine tilting backwards at quite an angle if left as is.

Back half of the IB5 casing is almost identical to the MK3 Escort BC box's, but the front half is very different.

How it should sit...

How it does sit...

How it sits now...




Extended the slot in the cradle on the left hand side about 15mm to allow the mount to sit lower, ground back left hand bracket and re-drilled lower, re-drilled right hand bracket.
Looks close enough to me
After fitment...
Had to grind a hole bigger in the cradle as the box was sitting on it and vibrating quite a bit, elongated the engine mount top hole to allow it to rotate a fraction.
May have gone a bit bigger than needed but I did it in situ
lol
Easier way may be to grind a bit off the gearbox first but I couldnt be arsed to take it out again.


It also has a built in hydraulic release bearing so no more heavy pedal when running a proper clutch or snapping cables

Using a couple of spare blocks I had, a spare BC box, and my Ka box I offered it up....
The gearbox bolts up fine, although it does have one bolt hole missing compared to a BC box (upper left, see pics).
The cradle also bolts up to the IB5 fine, but it is tilted up at the back compared to the BC box, this would result in the engine tilting backwards at quite an angle if left as is.

Back half of the IB5 casing is almost identical to the MK3 Escort BC box's, but the front half is very different.

How it should sit...

How it does sit...

How it sits now...




Extended the slot in the cradle on the left hand side about 15mm to allow the mount to sit lower, ground back left hand bracket and re-drilled lower, re-drilled right hand bracket.
Looks close enough to me

After fitment...
Had to grind a hole bigger in the cradle as the box was sitting on it and vibrating quite a bit, elongated the engine mount top hole to allow it to rotate a fraction.
May have gone a bit bigger than needed but I did it in situ
Easier way may be to grind a bit off the gearbox first but I couldnt be arsed to take it out again.

Last edited by Karlos G; Sep 13, 2010 at 05:22 PM.
you'll end up making the engine sit higher for sure, measure from the work top to the bottom of the cradle, i'd reckon on about an inch with thos pics, will effect oil pickup a tad i'd think.
i remember a discussion on xrtwo.com and compared the ka and puma against bc boxes and showed how the non bc boxes tilted the engines at some degree.
prob won't cause any issue really though, just engine will sit higher due to having to re-triangulate with respect to cradle and gearbox.
i remember a discussion on xrtwo.com and compared the ka and puma against bc boxes and showed how the non bc boxes tilted the engines at some degree.
prob won't cause any issue really though, just engine will sit higher due to having to re-triangulate with respect to cradle and gearbox.
you'll end up making the engine sit higher for sure, measure from the work top to the bottom of the cradle, i'd reckon on about an inch with thos pics, will effect oil pickup a tad i'd think.
i remember a discussion on xrtwo.com and compared the ka and puma against bc boxes and showed how the non bc boxes tilted the engines at some degree.
prob won't cause any issue really though, just engine will sit higher due to having to re-triangulate with respect to cradle and gearbox.
i remember a discussion on xrtwo.com and compared the ka and puma against bc boxes and showed how the non bc boxes tilted the engines at some degree.
prob won't cause any issue really though, just engine will sit higher due to having to re-triangulate with respect to cradle and gearbox.
Read the first post mate!
lol
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so simple to do as well compared to drilling or welding or cutting! any gearbox specialist can transfer parts over and will charge max 150-200 quid labour.
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this route we are suggesting may benefit other people who may not want the hassle of drilling or modifying the box to fit the cradle.
its a very easy job to change the hosuing and the benefits are pretty much the same.
now stop banging your head
karlos i was refering to the title for other people!
this route we are suggesting may benefit other people who may not want the hassle of drilling or modifying the box to fit the cradle.
its a very easy job to change the hosuing and the benefits are pretty much the same.
now stop banging your head
this route we are suggesting may benefit other people who may not want the hassle of drilling or modifying the box to fit the cradle.
its a very easy job to change the hosuing and the benefits are pretty much the same.
now stop banging your head

So I'll contiue banging my head
lol
I've got a brand new racing puma LSD to drop in, but you can fit a RST one if you wanted yes.
Basically what I will have is a CTS Stage 2 box for Ł350 instead of Ł1200, and with a hydraulic clutch
You are going to have big issues with the driveshafts as well. The back end needs to sit where it should originally. The angle from the box to the hub as increased massively. The plunge has been changed massively. I suspect when on full droop the shaft is going to pop out at best. By the looks of it the diff is going to be starved of oil as well.
Last edited by keldsyke; Jul 10, 2010 at 08:44 AM.
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You are going to have big issues with the driveshafts as well. The back end needs to sit where it should originally. The angle from the box to the hub as increased massively. The plunge has been changed massively. I suspect when on full droop the shaft is going to pop out at best. By the looks of it the diff is going to be starved of oil as well.
You are going to have big issues with the driveshafts as well. The back end needs to sit where it should originally. The angle from the box to the hub as increased massively. The plunge has been changed massively. I suspect when on full droop the shaft is going to pop out at best. By the looks of it the diff is going to be starved of oil as well.
I dont know how it sits originally in the Ka, but the filler hole is not lower than the diff at it's current angle so should be fine.
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Then there is the hassle of having your old BC housing machined out to take the IB5 bearings, which unless you are a machine shop you cannot do yourself, and doing that looses 75% of the benifits of the box... Stronger casing so less flex (why do you think CTS uses IB5 casing 99% of the time
and cts in most of their conversions use bc casing machined to except the big bearings unless now they have changed they box conversion?
Last edited by morph; Jul 10, 2010 at 10:38 AM.
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the left hand side sits lower than normal which your going to pivot around (i.e. making the right hand bracket to lift that end of the gearbox up to return engine to normal able). As that left hand side is staying the same its going to make the whole thing taller. Dont know about you but my charge carrier is very close to the bonnet as it is and cant afford to go any higher. Im not knocking what your doing as im dying to find a halfway house between hacking my car about to fit a st170 or similar and having a reasonably 'easy' fix.
Yeah I see what your saying mate, but I literally just hung it on there for illustration, as I said in the first post "How it will sit very roughly" it's in no way accurate to how it will be when finished.
Both brackets are going to be altered to keep the engine the same height, and if I need to drop it a little more then a couple of spacers between the cradle and chasis will sort that out easy enough
At least thats my plan....
lol
Rear starter mate.
Both brackets are going to be altered to keep the engine the same height, and if I need to drop it a little more then a couple of spacers between the cradle and chasis will sort that out easy enough

At least thats my plan....
Rear starter mate.
Last edited by Karlos G; Jul 10, 2010 at 08:18 PM.
I think it will be fine mate, and thanks very much for posting the pictures up, its been a massive help! can you bung up a link to your hydraulic clutch conversion post as i need to do this before i put my engine in!
Rob,
Rob,
Here you go Rob https://passionford.com/forum/ford-e...8-04-10-a.html
I'm going out in a bit to grind and drill so should have a more accurate pic of how it will fit in a while......
I'm going out in a bit to grind and drill so should have a more accurate pic of how it will fit in a while......
(before it went for powder coating).
Last edited by crazycage; Jul 11, 2010 at 08:34 AM.
95% Done!
Extended the slot in the cradle on the left hand side about 15mm to allow the mount to sit lower, ground back left hand bracket and re-drilled lower, re-drilled right hand bracket.
Looks close enough to me
Just got one more hole to drill on the left bracket at the top, probably going to run with just two on the right as they are evenly spaced.
Pics updated in first post.
Extended the slot in the cradle on the left hand side about 15mm to allow the mount to sit lower, ground back left hand bracket and re-drilled lower, re-drilled right hand bracket.
Looks close enough to me

Just got one more hole to drill on the left bracket at the top, probably going to run with just two on the right as they are evenly spaced.
Pics updated in first post.
Last edited by Karlos G; Jul 11, 2010 at 03:08 PM.
Cheers!
Yeah it was really easy to do, and for an almost direct fit it's the best box you can get cheaply! I paid Ł75 and it has done 11K Miles so may as well be new
Fed up of running ancient BC box's with shafts, gears, and syncro's that have done 200K and just had the bearings changed every now and then as part of a 'rebuild'
lol
Plus the reinforced casing, and hydraulic clutch, just make it even more worth while IMO
Yeah it was really easy to do, and for an almost direct fit it's the best box you can get cheaply! I paid Ł75 and it has done 11K Miles so may as well be new

Fed up of running ancient BC box's with shafts, gears, and syncro's that have done 200K and just had the bearings changed every now and then as part of a 'rebuild'
lolPlus the reinforced casing, and hydraulic clutch, just make it even more worth while IMO
when you say the difference is the rear starter do you mean Ka has front starter? I am a little confused, I have just fitted a ib5 from a escort straight into my mk3 fiesta, and converted to the rear starter. It all bolted stright in, replacing my series 2 lsd box. I dont understand why the Ka one seems to sit so different on the escort cradle?
when you say the difference is the rear starter do you mean Ka has front starter? I am a little confused, I have just fitted a ib5 from a escort straight into my mk3 fiesta, and converted to the rear starter. It all bolted stright in, replacing my series 2 lsd box. I dont understand why the Ka one seems to sit so different on the escort cradle?
when you say the difference is the rear starter do you mean Ka has front starter? I am a little confused, I have just fitted a ib5 from a escort straight into my mk3 fiesta, and converted to the rear starter. It all bolted stright in, replacing my series 2 lsd box. I dont understand why the Ka one seems to sit so different on the escort cradle?
How did you fit a rear starter to a Fiesta the oil filter is in the way, is it not a CVH lump in there?




sits quite nice in the cradle now doesnt it. Fast looking like a very good option this