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building up wax protection.

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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 12:09 AM
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Default building up wax protection.

Can you build up layers of wax until the surface is almost glass smooth??

Im used to waxing my shoes in the military and you could build up layers of wax until it was perfectly smooth and glass like. can the same be achieved using car waxs???
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 12:34 AM
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Yeah its best to do 2-3 layers, but if you can leave 24 hours between coats so the wax fully cures, otherwise you will just be taking the previous layer off when you put a new layer on.. if the wax hasn't cured.

Most people tend to leave 1-2 hours between coats if 24hours is not possible.
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 07:17 AM
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Best to clay it first mate - that way you know you're starting with a super smooth glass like finish.
I wouldn't wax silver either as the wax can dull the metallic aspect (if you're being anal). I use Poorboys EX-P sealant after a Poorboys ClearKote Vanilla Moose Glaze which is a polish more than a glaze.
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 08:05 AM
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as said, its best to clay first. also wax does not layer, detailiers only put 2 coats on to make sure that the car has an evan coat all over, layering wax is a complete waste of time. if your car is silver then a sealant would be a better option, something like nanolex.
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Puma_dal
I wouldn't wax silver either as the wax can dull the metallic aspect (if you're being anal).
Im using polymer based sealant anyway rather than pure carnuba based waxs.

Originally Posted by craig todd
also wax does not layer, layering wax is a complete waste of time.
Why not?? it does on shoes. I tried both carnuba wax and synthetic polymer sealants on my military parade shoes and it built up layers no problem. So i dont get why it wont do the same on paint?? Obviously once the first layer of wax/sealant has bonded to the paint then i see no reason why other layers wont bond to the existing sealant???

So far it seems to bead quite well:

Will it eventually perfectly form round beads or just run off???

Still think ive got a way to go to get a decent reflection and shine:




Ive noticed the flakes on the black are standing out loads now compared to how they used to. you can see it on the silver too but its not so strong.
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 11:22 PM
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Everyone on detailingworld says to put 2 layers of wax on, as it builds up the protection.

Once you have some wax on there any water will bead up very nicely and run straight off when you drive it.

These are a few pics of the beading on my car, with 2 layers of Dodo Juice Orange Crush wax and Dodo Juice Red Mist sealent..



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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 12:13 AM
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im sorry but i really cant get excited about nor care less about how water beads on my car lol!
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 12:22 AM
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@ botters. Its just a good indication that there is a good level of wax/sealant protection on the paint as the sealants repel the water so it beads.
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 05:11 PM
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when you say leave it an hour or 2 between coats, is that leaving the wax on for that long, then removing, or removing then waiting a few hours?
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 10:25 PM
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after its been buffed dan..wait an hour than another layer.
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 07:11 AM
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Cool, how long are you meant to leave a layer on for then? i never really know, i usually leave it 15 mins or so?
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 08:22 AM
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i havent used a wax for ages mate.iuse a sealent think its normaly when the wax hazes..just dont let it fully cake on..

what wax u using?
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by WongRS
Cool, how long are you meant to leave a layer on for then? i never really know, i usually leave it 15 mins or so?
Different waxes have different curing times but most will say on the pot how long they shuold be left.
However different times of year will change all that as in hot weather you will need to remove sooner where as in colder weather you can get away with leaving longer.
The swipe test is always a good indicator.
Apply wax to a panel and when you think is is ready to be removed do a swipe with your finger, if it smears it needs longer, if it removes the haze it is ready.

Hope this helps
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by WongRS
Cool, how long are you meant to leave a layer on for then? i never really know, i usually leave it 15 mins or so?
15mins is about right, obviously some waxes can differ.
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 11:38 PM
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Ive noticed the more layers of sealant i put on, the more "flake pop" i am getting and ive started to notice im not improving the quality of reflections much as the flakes standing out effects the reflection. So i wonder if there is a balance to be met???

Id ideally like to get the paint almost like glass.
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by warrenpenalver
Ive noticed the more layers of sealant i put on, the more "flake pop" i am getting and ive started to notice im not improving the quality of reflections much as the flakes standing out effects the reflection. So i wonder if there is a balance to be met???

Id ideally like to get the paint almost like glass.
Have you clay'd the paint? That's the best way to it like glass.
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 12:34 AM
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yep. done that and machine polished it with a bit of tuition.
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Gav Diamond
Different waxes have different curing times but most will say on the pot how long they shuold be left.
However different times of year will change all that as in hot weather you will need to remove sooner where as in colder weather you can get away with leaving longer.
The swipe test is always a good indicator.
Apply wax to a panel and when you think is is ready to be removed do a swipe with your finger, if it smears it needs longer, if it removes the haze it is ready.

Hope this helps
Cool, thanks for that, i had a rough idea, just wanted to double check!
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