building up wax protection.
#1
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Carbon Crazy
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From: Stoke on Trent
building up wax protection.
Can you build up layers of wax until the surface is almost glass smooth??
Im used to waxing my shoes in the military and you could build up layers of wax until it was perfectly smooth and glass like. can the same be achieved using car waxs???
Im used to waxing my shoes in the military and you could build up layers of wax until it was perfectly smooth and glass like. can the same be achieved using car waxs???
#2
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From: Suffolk
Yeah its best to do 2-3 layers, but if you can leave 24 hours between coats so the wax fully cures, otherwise you will just be taking the previous layer off when you put a new layer on.. if the wax hasn't cured.
Most people tend to leave 1-2 hours between coats if 24hours is not possible.
Most people tend to leave 1-2 hours between coats if 24hours is not possible.
#3
Best to clay it first mate - that way you know you're starting with a super smooth glass like finish.
I wouldn't wax silver either as the wax can dull the metallic aspect (if you're being anal). I use Poorboys EX-P sealant after a Poorboys ClearKote Vanilla Moose Glaze which is a polish more than a glaze.
I wouldn't wax silver either as the wax can dull the metallic aspect (if you're being anal). I use Poorboys EX-P sealant after a Poorboys ClearKote Vanilla Moose Glaze which is a polish more than a glaze.
#4
as said, its best to clay first. also wax does not layer, detailiers only put 2 coats on to make sure that the car has an evan coat all over, layering wax is a complete waste of time. if your car is silver then a sealant would be a better option, something like nanolex.
#5
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Carbon Crazy
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From: Stoke on Trent
Why not?? it does on shoes. I tried both carnuba wax and synthetic polymer sealants on my military parade shoes and it built up layers no problem. So i dont get why it wont do the same on paint?? Obviously once the first layer of wax/sealant has bonded to the paint then i see no reason why other layers wont bond to the existing sealant???
So far it seems to bead quite well:
Will it eventually perfectly form round beads or just run off???
Still think ive got a way to go to get a decent reflection and shine:
Ive noticed the flakes on the black are standing out loads now compared to how they used to. you can see it on the silver too but its not so strong.
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From: Suffolk
Everyone on detailingworld says to put 2 layers of wax on, as it builds up the protection.
Once you have some wax on there any water will bead up very nicely and run straight off when you drive it.
These are a few pics of the beading on my car, with 2 layers of Dodo Juice Orange Crush wax and Dodo Juice Red Mist sealent..
Once you have some wax on there any water will bead up very nicely and run straight off when you drive it.
These are a few pics of the beading on my car, with 2 layers of Dodo Juice Orange Crush wax and Dodo Juice Red Mist sealent..
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#13
However different times of year will change all that as in hot weather you will need to remove sooner where as in colder weather you can get away with leaving longer.
The swipe test is always a good indicator.
Apply wax to a panel and when you think is is ready to be removed do a swipe with your finger, if it smears it needs longer, if it removes the haze it is ready.
Hope this helps
#15
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Carbon Crazy
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From: Stoke on Trent
Ive noticed the more layers of sealant i put on, the more "flake pop" i am getting and ive started to notice im not improving the quality of reflections much as the flakes standing out effects the reflection. So i wonder if there is a balance to be met???
Id ideally like to get the paint almost like glass.
Id ideally like to get the paint almost like glass.
#16
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From: Suffolk
Ive noticed the more layers of sealant i put on, the more "flake pop" i am getting and ive started to notice im not improving the quality of reflections much as the flakes standing out effects the reflection. So i wonder if there is a balance to be met???
Id ideally like to get the paint almost like glass.
Id ideally like to get the paint almost like glass.
#18
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From: Oswestry, Shropshire
Different waxes have different curing times but most will say on the pot how long they shuold be left.
However different times of year will change all that as in hot weather you will need to remove sooner where as in colder weather you can get away with leaving longer.
The swipe test is always a good indicator.
Apply wax to a panel and when you think is is ready to be removed do a swipe with your finger, if it smears it needs longer, if it removes the haze it is ready.
Hope this helps
However different times of year will change all that as in hot weather you will need to remove sooner where as in colder weather you can get away with leaving longer.
The swipe test is always a good indicator.
Apply wax to a panel and when you think is is ready to be removed do a swipe with your finger, if it smears it needs longer, if it removes the haze it is ready.
Hope this helps
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