Hi Guys!

Having a little trouble with my scort!

Couple of months back i had a little front ender not serious only cracked the bumper and done the rad... ive oviously changed the rad (ally) and i got new boost hoses (old ones looked tatty) and now she wont boost up at all! Its like driving a n/a 1600. I know it could have been coincidence but i changed the ovious like plugs leads and brought a grp a coil. After closer inspection i saw a small hairline crack on the exhaust manifold and it was blowing... therefore i thought thats the reason its no boosting, but ive now replaced this and still now joy!

Anyone got any ideas what it could be?

CheeRS
Matt

 

Is there a leak on the intercooler.

 

I did give this a good look over when stripped out...couldnt see any visable cracks? I think ill pressure test it. Whats the best way to do this?

 

fill it with water

 

no not with water. Its got loads of oil init and it wont like loads of water being dumped in there for no reason.

The best way would be to put an air line into the boost pipe and seal it best you can. I normally use a hard plastic cup which fits into the boost pipe with a trye valve on top. I just listen for air leaks and use water with fairy liquid and squrit some if i think there is a leak, if so bubbles will appear from the leaking air.


If you have an MFi system then its unlikely that its an air leak as it wouldnt run very nice at all if it did at all. Unless its been molested to run with the air leak.

Is the actuator connected and the pipes all ok with no splits etc.

 

Its still running on MFI yes and its idles and runs fine. Yeh double checked everything, Brand new boost hoses, ive check all actuator pipes etc and its connected.

Starting to confuse me now...

 

maybe the shunt on the rad hit the actuator and split the side of it?

 

need to check it like i described in a similar post about 10 mins ago to karlos g.

 

Ill check that after the fmic then. Its not a std actuator its alot bigger and is made from billet ally, has a universal turbos sticker on it, any idea?

 

Could also be the penny is stuck after the impact, i've seen this recently myself on another car.

 

Sorry Karlos could you explain?

 

Inside the exhaust housing there is a penny wheel, this is what the actuator rod opens and closes to control the gas flow, if it's stuck open then you will get no boost.

 

Ok mate ta. And what if it is stuck open? What needs to be changed?

 

TBH I dont know! lol
Looking at the picture the turbo would need to be sent away for repair I would guess.

 

That picture dont look like its from an rst, the wastegate penny is located in the removable cast that the downpipe bolts onto, which dont involve sending the turbo off as that will cost you a packet, but you will most probably need to use oxy blow torch to heat up the nuts as they will most defo break the studs if you try to remove the wategate housing without heat. if you need a new wategate cast i got 2 here PM me if your interested

 

It isnt from a RST T3, was just a generic pic to show what I meant mate.

 

may sound obviouse but you hae et the actuator up properly with abit of preload on the spring etc .....

 

i havent touched the actuator ive only taken the elbow off to check everything was ok, wastegate was shut and all looks fine.

Thats why i find it weird, it drives like a n/a engine not boost at all!

Surly if it was a split hose or anything it would still try and boost and just hiss?

Anyone got any ideas?

 

is the compressor wheel still in good condition.

 

check your timming, MFI leaks.

you may think, eh.. but RSTurbo MFI engines always, always play up. could be fine one day, the following it could not boost, or run, or whatever. but should if done correctly.

as most have said and MrOddkid.