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bottom pulley's with trigger ring

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Old Apr 29, 2010 | 10:21 PM
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From: seaham
Default bottom pulley's with trigger ring

Ive got cosworth management on my escort and am using sierra 1.8 bottom pulley that i dont realy like it because its so close to the chassis leg and if i want to renew the timing belt or remove the gearbox ive got to drop the engine out. Its also got a adjustable trigger wheel and i dont get why i would need to adjust it.
am going to drop the engine out because the bearing's have gone in my box so i would like to change the pulley when the engines out,
Is there anywhere i can get a cvh bottom pulley with a 4 tooth trigger wheel and bracket for cps or has anyone got any ideas of something i can do
thanks lee
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Old Apr 29, 2010 | 11:54 PM
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Dont need to drop it out at all. remove the mount and jack it up on a tilt.
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by little bram
Ive got cosworth management on my escort and am using sierra 1.8 bottom pulley that i dont realy like it because its so close to the chassis leg and if i want to renew the timing belt or remove the gearbox ive got to drop the engine out. Its also got a adjustable trigger wheel and i dont get why i would need to adjust it.
am going to drop the engine out because the bearing's have gone in my box so i would like to change the pulley when the engines out,
Is there anywhere i can get a cvh bottom pulley with a 4 tooth trigger wheel and bracket for cps or has anyone got any ideas of something i can do
thanks lee
Gadget did do them but I don't think he's got any left? Theres nothing wrong with the Sierra set up TBH. You can move the engine further over by undoing the engine mount bolts and using a pry bar, push the whole lot over and do the bolts back up. Its not too much trouble to change a cambelt, just take the engine mount off and jack the engine up like I did to Conors. It's not as if you'll be chaging cambelts and gearboxes regularly?

The trigger ring is adjustable because it alows you to fine tune the timing in relation to the sensor.
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 02:53 PM
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[quote=conor.rst;4875569]Dont need to drop it out at all. remove the mount and jack it up on a tilt.[/quote

Jack it up? If i can'nt drop it down far enough to get the bottom pulley off then how can you jack it up to do it.
if i take the engine mount off then try to drop it down, when the engine tilts the pulley is going to hit the chassis leg and its the same thing when am trying to remove the box. when i remove the gearbox mount the pulley will hit before the box has drop far enough.
Its not that i can'nt do timing belts mate. Just dont want to scratch the death out of my chassis leg and dont what the fuck on of droping the engine out.

thanks lee
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by muz
Gadget did do them but I don't think he's got any left? Theres nothing wrong with the Sierra set up TBH. You can move the engine further over by undoing the engine mount bolts and using a pry bar, push the whole lot over and do the bolts back up. Its not too much trouble to change a cambelt, just take the engine mount off and jack the engine up like I did to Conors. It's not as if you'll be chaging cambelts and gearboxes regularly?

The trigger ring is adjustable because it alows you to fine tune the timing in relation to the sensor.
Like ive just said i dont want to kill my chassis leg so prying it over with a pry bar is'nt going to happen and i dont think it would move far anyway realy. And cant see why anyone would need to fine tune a cps. On this management the cps tels the ecu when each piston is at tdc. if am wrong then fair enough.
who is Gadget never heard of them?

thanks lee
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by little bram
Like ive just said i dont want to kill my chassis leg so prying it over with a pry bar is'nt going to happen and i dont think it would move far anyway realy. And cant see why anyone would need to fine tune a cps. On this management the cps tels the ecu when each piston is at tdc. if am wrong then fair enough.
who is Gadget never heard of them?

thanks lee

I've just fitted Cossie management to Conors car and you can jack the engine up enough to take the bottom pully off, but you cant lower the engine enough to do it. But it is tight I agree.



Correct the CPS tells the ECU when its at TDC but your using a Seirra pully which would have origionally used a 36 tooth ring, and the cosworth set up requires a 4 tooth ring. If its one of Jano's I think he has them made out of steel for a better signal than the origional alloy ones then they have to be added to the Sierra pully. Being adjustable makes it easier to set 100% correct at TDC as you are mixing and matching parts.

Gary (gadget) used to make a different system but not sure what happend with that.

It doesn't require much force to pry the engine over, and the engine mount is adjustable for this very purpose. Putting some padding behind it means you wont damage the paint. Conors bottom pully is a good 8-10mm away from the Chassis now.

I havent tried to change a gearbox in place with this set up admitedly, but its so easy to take an RST engine out I would rather take it out to change a box anyway.
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by muz
I've just fitted Cossie management to Conors car and you can jack the engine up enough to take the bottom pully off, but you cant lower the engine enough to do it. But it is tight I agree.



Correct the CPS tells the ECU when its at TDC but your using a Seirra pully which would have origionally used a 36 tooth ring, and the cosworth set up requires a 4 tooth ring. If its one of Jano's I think he has them made out of steel for a better signal than the origional alloy ones then they have to be added to the Sierra pully. Being adjustable makes it easier to set 100% correct at TDC as you are mixing and matching parts.

Gary (gadget) used to make a different system but not sure what happend with that.

It doesn't require much force to pry the engine over, and the engine mount is adjustable for this very purpose. Putting some padding behind it means you wont damage the paint. Conors bottom pully is a good 8-10mm away from the Chassis now.

I havent tried to change a gearbox in place with this set up admitedly, but its so easy to take an RST engine out I would rather take it out to change a box anyway.

It dosnt bother me how close the pulley is to the leg. its just that once the engine is in it looks to me like it cant come off without droping the full engine down.
So when you jack the engine up you can remove the pulley. It must be jacked up afair bit to remove it.
Was just asking to see if anyone made a smaller pulley that can be removed when the engine is in, like NMS. can'nt see them putting a sierra pulley on.

thanks lee
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 06:24 PM
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i have jano's cossie managment on mine. i also have about a 8-10mm gap between pulley and chassis. i changed my belts fine a few weeks ago. when i last took the pulley off i droped the engine down. but i had problems about a year ago when my enine mount was so worn i had 2-4mm clearance between pulley and chassis leg. so check that your mounts in good condition also.
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 07:50 PM
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I'd PM Gadget (search for his user name) and ask him. I'm happy with the Sierra set up but I can see what you mean.
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 08:08 PM
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I to managed to get the pulley off mine last time i had done cossie management by dropping the engine down, did take couple little bits of paint off admitedly.

Im getting bit desperate for one of those tdc holders/brackets so i can start getting all the car back together. Hope i dont have as much trouble trying to get it to run this time round.
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Old May 1, 2010 | 07:40 PM
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I'm going through hell gattin mine to run, but I'm determined to do so
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Old May 2, 2010 | 08:43 AM
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What problems you having studabear? When i did it first time round i just couldnt get it to fire at all, was trying all sorts but couldnt afford to get it to jano as had lost my job so just sold it all and put standard mfi back on. Now, 2 years later ive decided to do it all again lol. Have you got any pics of your engine bay please mate, dont think ive seen yours and im having trouble getting onto janos site for some reason.
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Old May 2, 2010 | 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by studabear
I'm going through hell gattin mine to run, but I'm determined to do so
Why mate whats up with it.
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Old May 2, 2010 | 09:50 AM
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no spark or injector pulse, when cranking. its to do with sensor alignment, just waiting on a tool to get tdc set to perfectionthen gonna have another good look at it, I know all components are good, there all new or have been tested

Essexmikesi have you tried gettin in touch with jano if your having problems getting on okc? what pictures are you after? I've got a project thread on okc in the secure section
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Old May 2, 2010 | 10:43 AM
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Nah its really weird, i can get on there at home but when im round my gfs i cant seem to get my password right lol.

When i had done cossie management before, i was getting fuel and a spark but nothing was happening, just kept turning over, couple of coughs but nothing else.

I'll have to have a look when im on there next, just wanted to see what the overall engine bay looks like on yours.

Ive got to build mine up again this time round, is just a bare engine in a bay at the minute, need to get jano to skim my top pulley and waiting for him to get the top sensor bracket and throttle linkage so i can start building up all pulley etc and time it up again.
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Old May 2, 2010 | 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by studabear
no spark or injector pulse, when cranking. its to do with sensor alignment, just waiting on a tool to get tdc set to perfectionthen gonna have another good look at it, I know all components are good, there all new or have been tested

Essexmikesi have you tried gettin in touch with jano if your having problems getting on okc? what pictures are you after? I've got a project thread on okc in the secure section
Would'nt think having no spark would have anythink to do with senser alignment mate. are you running a coil pack or not. i would be cheaking the wiring. you would get a spark if your sensors are not aligned just would spark at the wrong time.
What tool are you waiting for?

Last edited by little bram; May 2, 2010 at 12:05 PM.
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Old May 2, 2010 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by EssexMikeSi
Nah its really weird, i can get on there at home but when im round my gfs i cant seem to get my password right lol.

When i had done cossie management before, i was getting fuel and a spark but nothing was happening, just kept turning over, couple of coughs but nothing else.

I'll have to have a look when im on there next, just wanted to see what the overall engine bay looks like on yours.

Ive got to build mine up again this time round, is just a bare engine in a bay at the minute, need to get jano to skim my top pulley and waiting for him to get the top sensor bracket and throttle linkage so i can start building up all pulley etc and time it up again.
My car was the same as that mate. was like that for month's could'nt get my head around it. the problem was the cps wiring had to be changed around. once i did that it fired up.
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Old May 3, 2010 | 11:34 AM
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i driven to essex last wenesday, jano tried my loom and ecu on a car he had in, it started perfectly, I get spark when the ignition is switched on. so I know my coil and ignition modules are good, its running wasted spark. tool I'm waiting for is to get tdc aligned to absolute perfection, then I can set the bottom trigger ring up, if I don't get it running then I'm gonna have it trailered to jano
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