my RS has been sitting in my garage for 7 months, not even touched at all until the other week.

I done an oil change and then tried to start the car, it doesn't.

Car has brand new Fuel pump relay, today.
August a brand new Fuel pump.

what seems to be the cause of it? battery is new but i have tried starting the car loads of times until i fit the relay, would an almost 'flat' battery cause the clicking?

Thanks.

 

might have triggered the fuel cut off but yeh a flat battery will make it click

 

where can i find this fuel cut off?

Thanks for your reply.

 

Change the battery. You've probably flattened the it trying to crank the engine. The clicking is the starter motor.

 

I have a fuel cut of in my spear wheel well little push button on the top hope this helps

joe

 

as joe said its in the boot

 

well lafter re wiring some dodgy wires. i tried again, made no differance, i brought a multimeter to check for power. put + & - on the pump terminal, using the 20v setting and not a volt was present.

is this cut off switch under the spare wheel? ive never seen one in a series 2. let alone heard of there being one there?

anyone got a pic?

 

is there any voltage coming out of the pink relay, you might find it under a little disk ya undo

 

Does it crank over and not fire up or does it click and nothing happen? My cut off swich is located in the boot you gota take the spare wheel out and it's there in the center. I would get the volt meter on the fuel pump relay and to near the pump and does the fuel pump prime when you put ignition on?

Joe

 

i have power at the relay i cant hear it click so thats deffo working. but as i turn the key over the fuel pump makes no noise at all. always thought it clicked but turned put to be the ignition relay when i had my head under the car.

the engine does crank over, it wants to start but as i have no pump priming it just cranks and will not fire up. wierd people saying they have cut off switches as i dont have one.

 

The reason I got 1 is my shell is a xr3. Have you tested to see if you are getting power to the pump?

Joe

 

i assume your shell was an EFi XR3i as i know they had cut off switches.

i have put a multimeter on the pump terminals and got 0.

IE +&- when the key is on ignition.

 

rs shells do not have cut off switches in the boot it is just the xr3i and the serria

 

Thats because the pump does not run constantly only when the engine is running does it run constantly. You will find if you had an assistant turn the key while you had the meter you would briefly see power when the fuel pump primes, pretty sure MFI does this as well, so first check when ignition is switched on if pump primes again assuming MFI does this should think it would.


Martin

 

yes ignition was on, key in posison 2 and immoboliser disarmed.

pump doesn't prime.

 

sounds like pump is naff do ya have power to the pump is the earth bad, try running an earth and live straight to the pump to see if it primes

 

yes i used some 12v speaker wire. i wired it from the battery straight to the pump and nothing happened on turn over.

 

pumps gone then cos it should prime as soon as ya touched it with the live and earth, when was the last time it was used as it might of just dried up solid

 

Had this problem on one of my cossies, took me ages to find the problem, in the end it turned out that the pump had seized because it was sitting for ages, hit it with a plank of wood about 20 times, that free it off, used to do it all the time until I used the car reguarly. Maybe worthy a try giving it a dunt, nothing to lose!

 

Christ sake, its only done about 800 miles on it. the car was last used mid october and it was fitted end of august. i only replaced it as the one before it was fitted from factory. still got it, but has the factory fitted plug ends on it, which i since chopped up the 'loom' for the new style pumps.

 

as rog said but hard wire it straight to the battery so its got constant live and the hit it with a lump of wood/rubber mallet

 

good point someone mentioned not long ago about wacking it with something blunt.

do i need to remove the cradle and hit the pump itself?

 

Hmm you could take it apart, but i didn't bother, i just knocked F**k out of it, depends how rusty it is though!!!!!!!!

 

you should'nt have to, just hit it enough to free the grit/carbon/rust what evers stopping it

 

how much fuel ya got in it aswell by the way

 

i have just under quarter of a tank, all fresh petrol

 

oh fair do's i use to fill up 2 gerry cans with fuel just before i got to the red and then crack of the nut before the filter and send a bit of redx through the pump and lines till it wines then put it back together and fill it back up, good for cleaning the pump out but dont like putting it in cvh engines

 

If you want your Rs to start, do the following.
1. Switch on the ignition and listen for the pump buzzing to prime the fuel lines.
If it buzz's, chances are the relay is ok.
2. Crank the engine and listen for the pump again buzzing. If its buzzing,your ok.
If not, then you could try another fuel pump relay(there are two different circuits inside the relay, one could be faulty).
3. If this does work, check for spark(I had the same problem with mine.No fuel pump or spark.)
Remove one plug and lead and hold it against the head and crank the engine.
You should see and hear the plug firing in front of you. If it does, its a problem on the fuel side only.
If the plug does not fire, its more the likely the distributor causing trouble.
Try plugging in a new distributor, switching on the ignition and spinning the distributor by hand. If you know see spark and hear the fuel pump for a second, you've found the problem. If not, you have some fault finding to do. Or it could also be something as simple as a jammed pump.

I had this problem with my S2 about a year ago. During cranking, the pump would not run(as it should) but when I by-passed the relay, it would work. At first I thought it was the relay(I was wrong). I found I had no spark so suspected the hall sensor in the dizzy as its how the Ecu knows the engine is cranking.If it fails, the engine will still crank but the Ecu will not will be able to see it cranking and so will not switch the pump or coil. I hope this helps.

 

yeh he has a point try taking out the relay and pulling the cover off and check the soldering for any hair line cracks or breaks