I have a 88 2wd saff. Swapped the engine out of a running doner car and finneshed it all and ive never got it to start since. My original engine started ok before but the bores were gone and smoked badly hence the engine swap. So ive fitted a new phase sensor and tdc sensor (both gapped correctly). plugs leads cap rotor . new 3 bar map sensor new group a coil . new battery . fresh fuel , new filter .new timming belt and im sure i have lined it all up to the workshop manual correctly.

I am getting spark on all leads and plugs, And the injectors have been sent away to be cleaned and tested they are spraying out fuel ok when i pull out the rail.

Only way i ever get it started it with a tow in 1st gear and neads to be about 3000 revs then it runs roughly. it starts off the key after that and still runs rough leave it a day and it wont start off key.

I am lost anyone have any ideas what could be the problem. something is telling me its the dizzy allignment but its bang on the mark ive swapped the temp sensors surely i cant have 2 sets faulty ?

Any help would be greatly appreciated .

 

Throttle position sensor tested and set correctly mate?
Fuel regulator could be a long shot?

ISC valve - tried disconnecting that?

uuuuummmmmmmmmmm???

 

is phase sensor the right way round,

 

IMO its either phase or crank sensor related. have another look at these two again. can you boorow/buy another of these to rule out faulty sensor?

Edit* its sparking isnt it? Hmmm, i think that rules out crank sensor. whats the lugs like on crank pulley?

 

Right just home from shed. I got it fired up after towing it again and it was running really rough so i just sat and reved it to about 3-4000 rpm just letting it warm up. Then gave it some big revs near red line it and it seems to clear its self, it even idles. by now its at running temperature and it starts off the key without throttle and revs no problem but not perfect misses now and again but it runs.

cant drive it too far as its not legal. It needed towed for about 2 mins in first at 3500 rpm before it would start, now its warm it starts off key.

Ill see in the morning if it will start when its cold.

 

sounds like compression mate try and check it from cold.

 

it does sound like compression, can you get a test on it?

 

I havnt done a compession test yet but had the head off to check the bores and rings before i put the engine in the car, they were fine so got a group a gasket and new bolts and fitted it back in.

Went out today and tried to start it and it just floods itself. Took a plug out to make sure its sparking and it was, looked down the hole and there was fuel on the piston.

 

It's not crank sensor, or lugs/gap.
Make sure the phase is plugged in the right way around, red wire nearest the plug in dizzy side.
The gap is not crucial so long as it sees one.
Make sure you are aligning on the LUG nearest the V groove when doing the cam belt, and that at this position the scribe mark on the dizzy body is bang in the middle of the rotor arm sight wise.
As you say it sounds like phase as if out it will fuel all the time, not as meant to do.
It is defo mixture, this would be the first thing, then check output of tps/map.
tabetha

 

not 2&3 cylinders that are filled up is it?

 

if i was you i would start from the begining check the timeing 100% check the dizy is set right and / and no play in the dizy shaft / then the faz censer / roter / cap / leads round the right way and the leads are spot on check the plugs / and plugs set right . then with all the plugs out get a long rod and put it down number 1 plug hole and ruck the motor back forth to make shower it is TDC then check all the timing marks agen then with all the plugs still out do a compreshion test on all the cilinders then pve it a go.......and if you have a mate with a cosworth put your bits on his car ...O i forgot have a good look at the 4 lugs on the bottom pully and make shower they are spot on and none of then chipped or dented

 

Ok thanks i will be checking all those things tomorow and hopefully find something wrong.

 

Might be the followers not pumping up m8,

Steve

 

Here is my half finished engine bay starting to look a bit better just cant get the bugger to run .




Ive taken pics of all the timing mark to show you im sure there are all ok, also fitted the two temp sensors i got from matt lewis and it still wont start just floods itself.done a compresion test and the were all even at 11 bar.

 

Coolant Temp Sensor Checking :
Remove rear of ecu plug cover. Check resistance between pins 29 and 11. Should be 800 to 5000 ohms (depends on temp). If outside this range, check sensor and/or wiring.