Hi does anyone on here know what to do when starting up the engine for the first time after a re-build. I am a little worried because I have heard all different stories,I've heard you have to rev it to 3000 revs+I've also heard to just start it up and leave it ticking over. Any help would be appreciated thanks.

 

First thing I would suggest is to turn her over on the starter to check that nothing is clanging away or fouling. Getting oil pressure through to the top end is very important so wind it for a while and check by looking through the rocker cover cap. I took the plugs out so it had no compression to fight and hadn't refitted the fuel line at that point.

I let mine idle and warm up...

just as well - as the rear crank seal failed and a puddle of oil warned me to switch off. 4 - 5 furtive hours later with the box out, clutch refitted etc. I got her going and gave her light revs initially. It was a nervous smelly moment what with everything bedding in and new paint burning off etc.

I have no idea if this was correct but caution appeared to pay off.

Anyone else??

Andy

 

is it a complete rebuild or just top or bottom end?

 

Thanks Andy' Sorry to hear about the oil leak. what a pain got there in the end though just wanted a few opinions as going to do mine the week end and geting a little nervous. as andy said anyone else?

 

LHD220 TURBO

complete rebuild mate

 

I would turn it over by hand a few times then i would disconnect the fuel pump relay and crank it over on the starter motor. Always check for oil getting to the top of the engine too. Good luck mate its an awful feeling when you have just rebuilt an engine.

 

Just pull the dizzy (LT) wire off and wind over till the oil light goes out, then another 5 seconds.
When started keep revs around 1500 or so, for a few minutes, then turn off for 5 minutes, then carry on as normal, this is the way I do it.
tabetha

 

Good advice from the others there but I would like to add what I like to do after the initial start up, as you probally know you should be filling the engine with mineral oil, any cheap stuff you can find will do. I'm in the middle of doing a YB rebuild myself which to be honest is my first but below is the procedure I've used with other engines to good effect. If anyone knows a better way with the YB then please let us know.

1. After 20 miles of below 3500rpm driving change the oil and filter - again use mineral oil.

2. After 20 miles of below 3500rpm driving change the oil and filter - again use mineral oil.

3. After 100 miles of varied driving change the oil and filter - this time use a recomended brand/grade - opinion varies as which is the best.

4. Clock up at least a thousand miles without driving the engine too hard to bed everything in nicely then change oil/filter again then continue with your normal oil/filter changes.

 

it may be to late now but what i did with my complete rebuild was before i fitted the cam belt fully i put an old belt around the dizzy drive pully and using a drill as a drive i turned the pully so as to build up oil pressure before i even started the engine,it helped prime the filter fill the gallerys and get oil to the cams.
then i got fuel up to the fuel rail by running the pump with ignition on, then i made sure i had a spark.
having done all that i cranked the engine and it fired first time.
next thing is to let it idle and be sure oil pressure is good and do the usual of looking for leaks etc
let the engine warm up as your going to have to do this at some stage so do it now.bear in mind there will be plenty of funny smells and a strange noise or two. as it warms be sure oil pressure drops, this lets you know that the oil pressure relief valve is closing to maintain hot oil pressure at idle.
keep a close eye on engine temp and let the fans cut in and out as per normal.dont forget to put the heater to hot now and then to get any air out of the system.
if you get to this point then things are looking good
the next step is the most important i.e running in

basically every one has good advise on this and defo use the mineral oil
the secret is not to overload the engine and allow ample time for the metal parts to bed into each other (crank bearings, pistons in cylinders etc)

maybe a slight modification of your own schedule and defo comply with #4

1. After 50 iles of below 3500rpm driving change the oil and filter - again use mineral oil.

2. After 100 miles of below 3500rpm driving change the oil and filter - again use mineral oil.

3. After 300 miles of varied driving change the oil and filter - this time use a recomended brand/grade - opinion varies as which is the best.

4. Clock up at least a thousand miles WITHOUT DRIVING HARD AT ALL then change oil/filter again then continue with your normal oil/filter changes.

 

I change my oil at 500 miles, with mineral, at which point I am at 5000rpm on a light throttle, briefly, by 1000 miles I am at normal driving, but don't go fully synthetic till at least 2000miles.
Engine require next to no bedding in, as components and machining so much better now.
If you bed it in TOO easy, it will glaze the bores and forever drink oil, be down on power.
The inportant thing is not to let the engine labour so going up a steep hill 5000rpm is better in a lower gear than 1500 in a high gear.
tabetha

 

thanks every one just waiting for my my water pump to turn up now and i will be ready to go thanks again matt.

 

GOOD LUCK,
tabetha

 

thanks mate

 

Hope its ok!!!

When i did my first start after her rebuild it was knocking like mad i nearly died... Lad how rebuilt it came and said just drive it and will be ok ... It was like thank god lol not a nice sound...

 

Fingers crossed - yes the followers can be noisy until the oil really gets in there under pressure - good point - so don't panic!!

 

Can take up to 50 miles of DRIVING to FULLY get quiet from the tappets, mine has so much piston slap when cold next door thinks I'm a farmer off on me tractor!!
tabetha