it may be to late now but what i did with my complete rebuild was before i fitted the cam belt fully i put an old belt around the dizzy drive pully and using a drill as a drive i turned the pully so as to build up oil pressure before i even started the engine,it helped prime the filter fill the gallerys and get oil to the cams.
then i got fuel up to the fuel rail by running the pump with ignition on, then i made sure i had a spark.
having done all that i cranked the engine and it fired first time.
next thing is to let it idle and be sure oil pressure is good and do the usual of looking for leaks etc
let the engine warm up as your going to have to do this at some stage so do it now.bear in mind there will be plenty of funny smells and a strange noise or two. as it warms be sure oil pressure drops, this lets you know that the oil pressure relief valve is closing to maintain hot oil pressure at idle.
keep a close eye on engine temp and let the fans cut in and out as per normal.dont forget to put the heater to hot now and then to get any air out of the system.
if you get to this point then things are looking good
the next step is the most important i.e running in

basically every one has good advise on this and defo use the mineral oil
the secret is not to overload the engine and allow ample time for the metal parts to bed into each other (crank bearings, pistons in cylinders etc)

maybe a slight modification of your own schedule and defo comply with #4

1. After 50 iles of below 3500rpm driving change the oil and filter - again use mineral oil.

2. After 100 miles of below 3500rpm driving change the oil and filter - again use mineral oil.

3. After 300 miles of varied driving change the oil and filter - this time use a recomended brand/grade - opinion varies as which is the best.

4. Clock up at least a thousand miles WITHOUT DRIVING HARD AT ALL then change oil/filter again then continue with your normal oil/filter changes.