its been gone over before, but fuck it, ill ask again.

thinking about nailing a pair on the 3dr with adjustable tca's, but then will loose the arb.

is it really that bad to drive on the road like this?

its got avo monotube coilovers that are as hard as fuckery anyway, so that should cope with the lack of ARB no?

 

why not just fit a front bladed one and be done with it?
it's going to be a bit difficult on a road car you use everyday

 

car wont be used every day, and bladed arbs are perty expensive

 

Your suspension is already way to stiff for road use, so try it .

 

why use compression struts?
are you going to be rallying it smashing it into ditches n stuff?

 

not rallying, but that smashing into ditches part might apply

i just want to be able to adjust the cambe/castor for the odd track day.

car wont be used much on road, and even if it was, im used to driving shitboxes with rock hard suspension

 

I dont like the concept of losing the ARB totally on a road car.

Anyone do a kit with compression struts that has an ARB still?

Or on sierras do they only get used with mega hard track suspension where the ARB doesnt really do anything? (even if its just tied off the compression struts a bit like how they are mounted on a vauxhall nova)

 

What do we think of this set-up?

 

expensive?

 

Dan, if I said that lot could be on your 3 DR for under Ł 200 what would you say?

 

id say tell me more doug!

 

Ah, yes, that kind of thing is exactly what I meant!

Thats essentially what a vauxhall nova has, althogh on that the ARB actually goes onto the tie bars not the arms.

 

Ooooops, forgot a ZERO

 

and then id say, how does that work tho, as the ARB is fixed, so the compression struts wont be able to adjust will they?

 

cunt

 

It certainly looks like it will load up the bushes pretty hard as you adjust it on the car.

 

I dont think it's a comp strut....it's a conventional ARB + bladed ARB in tandem.

 

well, im waiting for a reply from compbrake, ill see what they say first

 

its not bladed tho, its round lol

 

Maybe doug is refering to the flat part that mounts across the car, although I havent seen that before and cant really picture how that works being bladed at that point rather than bladed in the normal place TBH

 

They will say: "Get your wallet out and stop trying to blag kit on the strength of being a journo!".

 

thats why i asked them for a price!

i just want the fooking thing running now, and its costing me lots of money

its booked in to pro alloy for the 1st of march, and that aint fookin cheap

 

same, that just looks like a tie bar between the 2 mounts?

 

Dan, thats exactly how it looks to me mate as well.
Like its essentially compression struts and an arb linked to the normal arb location on the car, and with that "blade" as nothing more than a tie between the two mounts (presumabley as a kind of chassis strengthening)


Thats just how it looks from the pictures though, I dont actually know anything about it, so if Doug does, then listen to him instead I guess!

 

turbo technics did a tca which had pick up points for both the compresision struts and teh normal arb

when i get home i'll see if i can find some pics that were put up about this setup

 

Will be fine on road and even more so on track

Even if your thinking they will upset your handling your braking feel will be improved as the wheel is kept into a tied location instead of moving around on a steel sprung bar and rubber bushes.

 

Very similar to a standard RS1600i setup

 

Thats true, and likewise the positive location is a big bonus for launching if its a 4wd car, or a fwd car (I know obviously yours isnt dan!)

 

I bought a roll bar,comp struts and drop links for my sierra from Rally Design a few weeks ago.
They list them on the website if you have a look.

 

I cant find any details on their site, although they list a kit at 129.99, they dont show any details of it yet.

From what you are saying it has roll bar AND compression struts though yeah. with the droplinks to connect them together.

Got any pics? as that sounds ideal!

 

I have just authorised the reply - you journo's drive a hard bargain

 

Sierra runs like that...

Uses Nuts's Comp struts...

 

i think the kit he's on baout is still the front mounted arb bolted to the rad mount holes and thent he drop links that are bolted to the nose of the compression struts, where the arb nut would normally sit at the front of the tca

 

cheers for the replies everyone

 

Not a for sale post





Si

 

my compbrake struts snapped lucky i was pulling the car off the drive at the time! otherwise i don't like to think what would of happened...

i did contact them and they said they'd never seen this before, though i never got round to sending them back to them for analysis..(plus i already paid money to buy them let alone pay to send them back) anyhoo my mate who builds rally(and runs) various cars said they were really poorly welded.

in terms of driving, i'm running MikeR springs and the body roll was shocking, unless you've got seriously hard suspenion i wouldn't even consider it without an ARB

 

lol cheers si, ill see what the email says tomoz lol

as for them top mounts, i had a set of them on the drift shitter - upon removal 4 out of 6 bolts sheared off in them - alloy and steel dont mix

dont know if id need them on the 3dr tho, if i use adjustable tca's and compression struts, it kind of eliminates the need for esscentric top mounts no?

 

hmm, that is the first time ive heard of them braking mate, and i know of few peeps using them

tbh, the avo sus on the car is that harsh, i was driving to work one day when the boot flew open lol

i stopped to shut it, but on inspection it was cos the bolts holding the latch to the bodyshell had vibrated out lol

even on the softest settings, the sus is hard as fuckery!!!

 

1) Bolts are not supplied with top mounts Dan so it may have been a mis match or something YOU used that maybe caused them to snap ? All the bolt is used for is to hold the top mount in position not to take any load And as those are not supplied why knock the top mount ??

2) Cut and shut welded is one of the reasons why I have moved on to the the fully CNC machined single piece solid billet bar type. That costs us more in the long run but it will bend way before it would ever get the chance to snap. There is no welding to break.

3) Doh an ARB wont STOP body roll, that is down to a combination of springs and dampers. I'd guess your Konis were an unspecified road set-up ? If your mate builds rally cars he shouldnt be building them to road spec unless its going to be a road rally car, in which case sometimes those mods are bend

 

if he wants to control the position of the wheel in the arch more acurratly then buy fitting top mounts that's going to give you more scope for adjustment isn't it?

adding in adjustable tca's and you can put the wheel wherever you want it to go, and without the problems of 4wd to contend with, the world is your lobster really once you've got the basics set up