I see that few members have problems with turbo lag, turbo kicks hard at 4000 rpm, not before. On mz rst boost start rising on about 2000+ rpm but hard kick comming at 4000 rpm. I think it is too late.

Is possible that problem is in ignition timing?

because I am sure that my mechanics dont remove map hose and dont set rpm to about 850, when setting ignition, and few people told me if set ignition like he, ignition can be too retard. if u understand my english

 

retarded ignition makes the turbo come in earlier, so it won't be that.

 

ok. is normal that "biggest kick" comming at 4000 ? I feel that turbo pulling car at 3000 but at 4000 pulling is hardest. maube T3 is guilty for that?

 

what cam are you using?

 

Got a dump valve?

 

Whats your full spec?

 

engine is standard. dont have dump valve. Boost is 0.5 bar (about 7 psi i think). and car goes well but pull hard at 4000 rpm. everything is ok (wastegate is ok, hoses are ok, turbo ok)

 

engine is standard. dont have dump valve. Boost is 0.5 bar (about 7 psi i think). and car goes well but pull hard at 4000 rpm. everything is ok (wastegate is ok, hoses are ok, turbo ok)

 

Just one question, I put here one picture (dont laugh this is only ilustration), I dont know which "toth" is correct, on place X, because here is few toths. thanks

 

If its std,


then it should be hitting 7-8 psi before 2500 rpm, and pulling from the same.


The largest pointer is TDC, which is the 2nd from the front.

 

thanks. what can be reason of my "lating boost"

 

cracked exhaust housing, worn cam.

 

and/or a Boost leak.

 

I will check but I am almost sure there is no leaks...maybe worn cam... car have about 170 000 km, and if cam is never changer it means it is eaten ?

 

yes

 

mostly like the case mate, that the lobs have worn away on the cam

 

ok... just quick question: how much costs new (original rst) cam?

I will remove valve cover and see cam soon. thanks guys

 

About £80 - £110 for cam and followers.

 

thanks

 

Do you have proper preload on the actuator arm?

 

how you mean preload? sorry my english is not so good.

I set actuator to 0.5 bar (see boost on gauge)

 

just one more thing, when I removing actuator to clean it, this iron piece falls from somewhere (maybe under one of the actuator screws?) , any ideas?

 

could be a spacer for the actuator, as someone might of fitted a incorrect actuator arm length.

try 8 mm preload, but you need to really pressure test the actuator.

 

That's the wastegate lever arm.

 

yes, actuator spacer. I try to refit this piece but looks bad, when I put it under any of two screws, actuator rod going too far from turbo " moving metal piece" (dont know name).

Fiecos dan: you mean that I shorten rod for 8 mm? I dont know what is preload :/

thanks mate

 

Preload is the amount the actuator arm is pulled to fit on to the wastegate.


usually preload is 4-6mm, but can be as much as 12mm, as long as the wastegate can still be opened 5-6mm when actuator is fitted.

 

damn...i dont understand this... you mean, I can try to rotating one part of actuator arm and shortened it? and have more boost?

sorry Dan for being boring

p.s. when I pulling actuator arm on wastegate, wastegate is fully open (fully right)

 

Yes, its adjustable,

with a 11mm spanner, undo lock nut, then turn to shorten or extened.

(shorten will give more boost, roughly 2 turns will see 0.5 psi )


looking from underneath, if the wastegate is fully anti clockwise, this is fully shut.

 

You mean that I set higher boost and turbo will start boosting earlyer?
good idea but I dont have chipped ecu and I can add 0.2 bar extra, now I have 0.5 bar.

 

just one more question, how much air pressure can take original rs turbo actuator?

 

a std actuator if in good condition can be set to 15+ psi with either a bleed tap, or another boost controller.


i'm not telling you to up the boost, but Test where it comes in.

 

I set boost to 0.7 bar, car goes better but again on higher rpm. but ok, I dont want be boring. Thanks again Dan