What do you think is the cheapest you can possibly build a zetec turbo engine?, presuming that the management and turbo side of things is taken care of ?

The things I can think of that need doing are:
Fabrication to inlet manifold to allow injectors
New bolt holes for exhaust manifold
Decompression plate
Blocking of breathers and oil return

I know people are going to have a fit for me saying decompression plate, but im just trying to keep things as cheap as poss.

Im just thinking that if I can find an appropriate donor 2ltr zetec engine for say £200 (is this reasonable?), then what other costs I would incur just to get a very basic up & running zetec turbo engine.

Thanks.

 

Well TBh, reliable and cheap dont come together, You could build a cheap Zetec turbo, but how reliable its going to be, is like saying, "how longs a piece of string"

on the block, you need to.

Change con rod bolts to ARP, its a must, no other way round that.

Drill block for oil return from turbo.

Drill hole for new oil breather position

block breath on front of block.

Low compresion, can be done using 3 ways, Skim pistons, de-comp late, or new low come pistons.

also, when buying a second hand block, you dont know the history really, so new big end bearings and main bearings with new seals etc might be worth doing.

Also need to see if its fitted with under piston oil jets. if not they need fitting really.

The Head.

all that need doing, is buying conversion plates for the exhuast and inlet and use Fiesta turbo inlet, with biege injectors, and Fezzy turbo management.

thats prity much as much as i know TBH. Sure theres other with far more info then that.

 

a bigger/better intercooler i a sort of must aswell as act will run pretty high, theres my 2p's worth aswell

 

cheapest way? 1.8 block 2.0 head.

 

I know what your saying about cheap and reliable dont come together, and I agree.

Im just wondering if it's possible to get a kind of rough and ready setup together using low boost, and over time upgrade parts as the wallet allows.

 

teh answer to how long is a pieceof string is ...from the middle to the end times 2!!!

 

Take a look in the restoration room under my new thread mate
might find a rough answer to the questions your asking

Cheers

Matt

 

the heads are the same

 

no there not, the combustion chambers are bigger on the 2.0. The actual valves and ports, yes they are the same, but by putting the 2.0 head on the 1.8 block will lower the compression ratio, because as stated the combustion chamber is bigger on the 2.0 head. makes the cr 9.1:1 i think

 

1.8 esc oh well i take it back, i always thought they were the same in all ways.

 

they are the same just the combustion chamber sizes differ thats all

 

Again I'd like to make a point a point about the head gasket thicknesses. The silvertop zetecs came with a traditional type ~1mm thick fibre/metal head gasket. Common upgrade is the later Focus multilayer gasket which is closer to 0.5mm in thickness. This will naturally increase the CR and bring the pistons very close to the head squish zones. The ST170 gasket is the best by being 4-layer all steel (like Cossie WRC, but 30£) and 1mm thick.
Also "skimming the pistons" is a bad wording as what you want to do is dish them like in "1.8 esc" 's sig. Preferably not even that close to the edge. There's two reasons for this. First, the distance from combustion chamber to the first ring should not be redused, especially not in turbo engines. Secondly, where the head has two flat areas in the combustion chamber, the piston should have matching flat areas to create the squish effect. At TDC the distance between theses surfaces should be 0.5-1.0mm. This brings it also back to the gasket thickness issue...

 

Cheap is CHEAP for a reason and Cheap has a nasty habit of turning out
expensive......