Running in a new engine, need guidance
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From: Kent
Running in a new engine, need guidance
Hi all
As title im getting near to the stage where i'll be firing up my engine for the first time. The engine has been rebuilt with new pistons/rings etc etc so i need to do it right
I know the cam has to be run in (2500rpm for 20 minutes) but im wondering about things like:
Setting the timing on the dizzy
What oil to use
Running in the engine generally (how many miles, how fast etc)
Can i get a tuning company to run her in?
Any tips?
Any help greatly appreciated
Thanks for looking
As title im getting near to the stage where i'll be firing up my engine for the first time. The engine has been rebuilt with new pistons/rings etc etc so i need to do it right
I know the cam has to be run in (2500rpm for 20 minutes) but im wondering about things like:
Setting the timing on the dizzy
What oil to use
Running in the engine generally (how many miles, how fast etc)
Can i get a tuning company to run her in?
Any tips?
Any help greatly appreciated
Thanks for looking
PassionFord Regular
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 476
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From: exeter, devon
use running-in oil for the first 500-1000 miles then do a oil and filter change with sum decent oil, dont take the engine over 3500rpm for the first 500 miles.
as for timing the dizzy do it once started as best as you can, then recheck after a couple of hundred miles as it will take a while for the rings to bed in etc
dont nurse the engine thou, go up through the gears as normal just keep the revs low
as for timing the dizzy do it once started as best as you can, then recheck after a couple of hundred miles as it will take a while for the rings to bed in etc
dont nurse the engine thou, go up through the gears as normal just keep the revs low
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From: South Wales
use cheap mineral oil to run in for 500 miles then change to fully synthetic!
dont go above 3500 rpm and stay off the boost. dont do the 500 miles on the motorway! keep goin up and down the revs to prevent bore glazing
dont go above 3500 rpm and stay off the boost. dont do the 500 miles on the motorway! keep goin up and down the revs to prevent bore glazing
PassionFord Regular
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: exeter, devon
Originally Posted by addiction
use cheap mineral oil to run in for 500 miles then change to fully synthetic!
dont go above 3500 rpm and stay off the boost. dont do the 500 miles on the motorway! keep goin up and down the revs to prevent bore glazing
dont go above 3500 rpm and stay off the boost. dont do the 500 miles on the motorway! keep goin up and down the revs to prevent bore glazing
Thread Starter
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
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From: Kent
Great info there guys cheers for that
So its a bit of A and B road driving then, ive been told not to leave the car idling for too long while running in, is that true?
So its a bit of A and B road driving then, ive been told not to leave the car idling for too long while running in, is that true?
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From: S/E Kent, Thanet
Have a read, some where in there your read my thoughts, and advice.
https://passionford.com/forum/viewto...632&highlight=
https://passionford.com/forum/viewto...632&highlight=
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From: Cheltenham, Gloucestershire
While we are on the subject.....this whole "running the cam in for 20 mins @ 2500rpm" business........
Why? Whats it meant to do?? Just something thats been bugging me for a while now
Why? Whats it meant to do?? Just something thats been bugging me for a while now
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Originally Posted by SafeChav
While we are on the subject.....this whole "running the cam in for 20 mins @ 2500rpm" business........
Why? Whats it meant to do?? Just something thats been bugging me for a while now
Why? Whats it meant to do?? Just something thats been bugging me for a while now
its one of these unanswered questions like wot came first the chicken or the egg 
and besides it says it on the box
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From: Cheltenham, Gloucestershire
Originally Posted by chunt69
Originally Posted by SafeChav
While we are on the subject.....this whole "running the cam in for 20 mins @ 2500rpm" business........
Why? Whats it meant to do?? Just something thats been bugging me for a while now
Why? Whats it meant to do?? Just something thats been bugging me for a while now
its one of these unanswered questions like wot came first the chicken or the egg and besides it says it on the box
Fuckin chocolate teapots spring to mind
Can anyone tell me WHY
PassionFord Post Whore!!
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From: S/E Kent, Thanet
Originally Posted by SafeChav
While we are on the subject.....this whole "running the cam in for 20 mins @ 2500rpm" business........
Why? Whats it meant to do?? Just something thats been bugging me for a while now
Why? Whats it meant to do?? Just something thats been bugging me for a while now
It needs to be @ 2500 rpm for the oil flow/pressure
and for 20mins, as it needs to beheld with the oil flow/pressure to after oil got to working temp.
Also i think some of its to cover the cam producers back.
i usually do it @ 2500 rpm till oil temp has pasted normal running temps and all adnormal noises have dissappeared.
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From: Cheltenham, Gloucestershire
Originally Posted by Fiecos Dan
Originally Posted by SafeChav
While we are on the subject.....this whole "running the cam in for 20 mins @ 2500rpm" business........
Why? Whats it meant to do?? Just something thats been bugging me for a while now
Why? Whats it meant to do?? Just something thats been bugging me for a while now
It needs to be @ 2500 rpm for the oil flow/pressure
and for 20mins, as it needs to beheld with the oil flow/pressure to after oil got to working temp.
Also i think some of its to cover the cam producers back.
i usually do it @ 2500 rpm till oil temp has pasted normal running temps and all adnormal noises have dissappeared.
Additional to the fact they have very excessive spring pressures, i would of thought raising the RPM that high would ruin it more than anything, especially when the oil is cold and thick............
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From: Earth most of the time
Originally Posted by SafeChav
Originally Posted by Fiecos Dan
Originally Posted by SafeChav
While we are on the subject.....this whole "running the cam in for 20 mins @ 2500rpm" business........
Why? Whats it meant to do?? Just something thats been bugging me for a while now
Why? Whats it meant to do?? Just something thats been bugging me for a while now
It needs to be @ 2500 rpm for the oil flow/pressure
and for 20mins, as it needs to beheld with the oil flow/pressure to after oil got to working temp.
Also i think some of its to cover the cam producers back.
i usually do it @ 2500 rpm till oil temp has pasted normal running temps and all adnormal noises have dissappeared.
Additional to the fact they have very excessive spring pressures, i would of thought raising the RPM that high would ruin it more than anything, especially when the oil is cold and thick............
PassionFord Post Whore!!
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From: S/E Kent, Thanet
Originally Posted by xrmalin
Fiecos Dan
Is this the same for all cvh cams wether its turbo'd or not ?
Is this the same for all cvh cams wether its turbo'd or not ?
same on most engine that i know of.
Safechav.
i believe its the very reason of lack of oil on start up and as oil is cold, is why it needs to be held at those revs,
and as mentioned the cam lube should protect it till oil is present.
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From: Cheltenham, Gloucestershire
Originally Posted by Fiecos Dan
i believe its the very reason of lack of oil on start up and as oil is cold, is why it needs to be held at those revs,
and as mentioned the cam lube should protect it till oil is present.
and as mentioned the cam lube should protect it till oil is present.
Originally Posted by xrmalin
Is this the same for all cvh cams wether its turbo'd or not ?
PassionFord Post Whore!!
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From: S/E Kent, Thanet
Originally Posted by GraphiteGray
Sorry mate i cant read the link, gold members only 
Heres a cut and paste of what i put on the other thread.
Originally Posted by Fiecos Dan
I've tried quite a few different ways of running in,
and found running-in is best by
Always warm up gently, not idleing. and fueling to be 14.2-15.0:1,
whilst at different times, checking everything.
30 minutes between 2500-3000 rpm,
0-50 miles, easy upto 3000rpm, changing the loads. no more than 25% throttle, Change oil.
50-200 miles, as above but to 3500rpm
200-300miles, 50% throttle, 4000 rpm, no boost.
300-400miles, as above but with boost
400-500miles, 50% throttle, 5000 rpm.
oil change,
500-1000miles, full throttle, low boost setting (20psi on my cossie), full RPM.
1000 + Full boost (35psi on my cossie).
Job done
The above way, has given me best results on CVH's and YB's, going by compressions, leak down test's, and longtivity of the whole engine.
i've tried 1000,500 etc ect of ploding around (like most places say) and rings never bed in correctly.
and found running-in is best by
Always warm up gently, not idleing. and fueling to be 14.2-15.0:1,
whilst at different times, checking everything.
30 minutes between 2500-3000 rpm,
0-50 miles, easy upto 3000rpm, changing the loads. no more than 25% throttle, Change oil.
50-200 miles, as above but to 3500rpm
200-300miles, 50% throttle, 4000 rpm, no boost.
300-400miles, as above but with boost
400-500miles, 50% throttle, 5000 rpm.
oil change,
500-1000miles, full throttle, low boost setting (20psi on my cossie), full RPM.
1000 + Full boost (35psi on my cossie).
Job done
The above way, has given me best results on CVH's and YB's, going by compressions, leak down test's, and longtivity of the whole engine.
i've tried 1000,500 etc ect of ploding around (like most places say) and rings never bed in correctly.
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