right finished my efi conversion, starts on the key, but when i drive up the road its as flat as anything, i could ride a bike faster, any ideas?

these r the only things i havnt done at the mo, i got the iscv to atmosphere instead of going to the crossover pipe

ive got the original brake servo pipe cut and joined to a take off on the inlet instead of the proper push type efi servo pipe

would these cause this problem^?

if i blank the pipe on the iscv off, it cuts out
if i disconect the iscv it also cuts out out

its not chipped yet, so standard boost with a bleed valve thats wound all the way in

the idle is very low too, but the idle screw is wound out as far as possible

when driving its like the exhaust is blocked, (was fine on mfi)
when i rev it on idle i get chatter so turbo must be spinning up

any help would be grateful chaps

 

i havnt set up base idle yet, would this make much difference to the lack of power driving? or only the idle?

running OFAC by the way

 

You can't adjust the idle with the screw as far as im aware, the ECU has the idle speed programmed in and therefore controls it.

You sure you've got everything plugged up?

 

If the idle control valve is going to atmosphere do you have the charge carrier vlaneked or are you still using the escort one? Also wouldnt you lose some boost through the idle control valve runing to atmosphere or does it completely shut off when not being used. With regards to idle like safe chav says its predetermined by the ecu you can set base idle with iscv disconnected and adjust the screw you mention should be around 600rpm i think. Is the valve operating properly and not all gummed up?

 

Im pretty sure its ok to run them with a breather filter on the ISCV, i'm sure ive seen cars at shows like this.

Good point though im sure someone will know for definate

 

im using erst carrier, i did a resistance check on the valve and that was in spec but duno if its gummed up, if i diconnect the iscv to set the idle it cuts out

 

Right went to play with it just now, is it at all possible that the timing could be out? would this cause this?

when i put the 1.8 sierra pulley on i put it in gear to tighten the pulley up, i know the crank isnt locked untill the gears lock up, so the engine turns abit before it locks, could at this point the belt mayb jumped a tooth? i also found the belt cracked so its about to go at anythime

 

Well first things first get that belt changed before you really cause some damage.

You should really get the bottom pulley on and tighten it as tight as you can by hand, then time it up and tighten the tensioner etc, then tighten the bottom pulley bolt

 

so with you saying that theres a chance ive could have done what i explained? cos the belts at its weakest and isnt gona holds at much strain?

 

Not necessarily, but like you say when you spin the bottom end over without the belt tightened you could well of jumped a tooth cos the belts loose, so by timing it up first you can then tighten the bottom pulley bolt and it wont jump any teeth or anything

 

Just checked timing its spot on

 

Well either way get that belt off, don't even risk it for the sake of a Ł10 belt!!!!!!

 

yeh defo

what i did notice tho was that the crank pulley had very slight play in it even when tight, could this affect the cps signal?

 

Are you talking the actual cam belt pulley or the sierra pulley?

To be honest though nothing should be loose really

 

ive got sierra pulley, i can only explain the movement as the same sort of play you get in a turbo shaft, very little, but im wondering if this is enough to affect the cps signal causing it to be really flat?

 

Well, being loose isn't good..........it should really not move at all because it gets sandwiched between the belt pulley and the bolt.

But movement is more then likely going to affect the signal.

When you change the belt, clean up the back of the pulley etc, if theres bit of dirt etc stuck to it making the contact faces uneven this won't help, use some emery paper or whatever.....if you get me?

 

yep i no what u mean, il put new belt on and clean up the pulley surface see if that makes a difference

 

i found this on rs bible

"The E-DIS 4 module uses the SAW signal to control the DIS coil. If the EEC-IV module develops a fault, a Limited Operation Strategy (LOS) comes into effect allowing the driver to continue the journey but with restricted power and economy"

this is like what mine feels like

 

think i found it, dodgy connection to last reminal on the e- dis unit

 

Theres usually some tell tails signs if theres a fault.

Have you tried giving it a good thrashing now?

 

ill slap a new timing belt on 2mura first as it looks like it could go ping at anytime and fix that wire on the e-dis unit, then fingers crossed

 

Ah TRUE

 

new belts on, fixed the e-dis wire, went down the road SORTED, efi conversion done

 

 

i creamed my pants when i heard the chatter

 

TOO MUCH INFO

 

Get ur finger out mr safe chav and join the club

 

Fuck me ur havin a laugh just been packing a head up for eBay and im sweating like a paedophile in a playground, let alone working on the car

Ive got a Series 1 to fix for someone this week anyway, and i get to use it while hes away on work

 

Glad it's all running mate. Get it chipped and set up. It'll fly.

 

Do you offer a satisfaction guarantee with the quote "it will fly"

 

I'll leave the 'satisfying' of the boys to you mate

 

well..............

what can i possibly come back to that with.........


















ive clearly been taught by the best MASTER