could any body tell me what hoses connect to the amal valve.i have got a new amal valve aint sure as it has a in car adjuster that needs bining off.

cheers

 

C - compressor
W - wastegate actuator
forget the other letter but it goes to the metering unit.

 

some people dont use the amal vave they just pipe a bleed vave in mines like this from a previous owner it works ok but would only advise it if its chipped gonna pipe the amal valve back up an have a 2 stage switch in place

 

thanks.

the car hasent been chipped but when i had it set up the amal valve was only allowing 4 psi so was bypassed.

switchable 2 to 7 psi

 

Although I've owned various Ford's for years, my S1 is my first turbo'd car and I've noticed my amal valve has a bleed valve on the pipe that goes to the actuator. Why is it there and what does it do? There's also a bleed valve going from the dump valve as well, what does this do? Any help would be gratefully received, thank you.

 

the bleed valve on the amal valve will be for boost control, and is commonly done. But as for a bleed valve on the dump valve

By any chance is it a diaphram dump valve??? I know RS's don't run with them but i can imagine there are people who have tried ways of fitting a diaphram dump valve.....

 

If it's standard, pipe it up standard!

Bleed valve is only for running more than std boost (7/8psi+)

 

bleed valve for dump valve is a age old naughty trick to allow u to run a diagphram dump valve with out the engine stallin bin it mate and getta double piston one.......... the bleed valve bleeds off the vaccum to the dump valve there for creating an air leak makin ur engine run rich..... been there done that years ago lol

 

I've looked through the receipts for the car and it has a fairly recent one for a Bailey piston type d/v and comparing the d/v on my car to one on a friends which is a diaphagm type this would appear to be the case. So why the bleed valve?
I'm not sure if the d/v is what is causing the other problem of when I stick my foot down sometimes, it sounds like loads of air / boost is leaking from somewhere, then all of a sudden it's like something snaps shut and it goes hell for leather. Ideas?

 

That was exactly what i had in mind, very crude Get that bleed valve off if its a bailey twin piston then it shouldn't be there, and it will contribute to some very poor idling problems among others.

 

It idles perfectly ok, albeit at just over 1000rpm. I'll remove it at the w'end to see if it improves the other no-go / go problem.

 

The idle has probably been turned up that high as a result of a poor idle problem. When you start loading up the alternator etc they tend to struggle and start hunting and can quite often stall.

Be worthwhile having a set up done when you remove it if you can afford it.

 

Right then, I've had a good look around how things are plumbed in and this is how it goes: -
There is a bleed valve with t-piece on the pipe which goes from the d/v to the inlet manifold. The pipe from this t-piece then comes all the way around to another t-piece coming off the amal valve. From the top pipe coming off the amal valve to the turbo there is another bleed valve.

I'm now more confused than ever on what does what and why they are fitted. HELP ME PLEASE!!

 

Sounds like a right bodge up mate, no disrespect to yourself. Is it possible to get a picture, which might make it easier to understand?

This is my engine and pipe work:



Out the inlet manifold, T'd off, one to the ecu and T's off again behing the heater box for the boost gauge, and the other pipe runs straight to the DV.

I'm not using a bleed valve at the moment, standard boost. You say your DV ties in with the amal valve??????

 

i have plumed my amal valve back up properly but still the car wont boost up
it will start to build boost i supose to about 2psi then pulls flat no more boost. the av is brand new from ford and i can here it click on with the ignition.

 

When you flick the ignition on its normal for them to click about 3 times quickly.

Sounds like theres something else up. If it had an in car adjustor chances are the actuator has been set so it runs extremely low boost, and can be turned up with the valve.

If you are sure the amal valve is all piped up correctly, you could try adjusting the actuator yourself although its going to be a trial and error process, a couple of turns at a time until you get it where you want it.

 

Right then: -

If the picture turns out then this is how it goes:

The pipe from the d/v goes to the bleed valve t-piece, these then go the inlet manifold (clear pipe) and a t-piece on the amal valve respectively.

The blue pipe to the right of clear pipe on the inlet manifold goes to the ECU and to the boost gauge.

 

I knew your engine bay would be nicer than mine

Right well, as you can see in mine, everything comes off the right outlet (please exscuse that 17mm bolt in the left pipe thats only a temporary thing as i was having some idling problems)

I'm still a little confused about the AMAL valve bit? No disrespect but are you 100% its the amal valve you are talking about?

 

Definitely sure its the amal valve it all connects to, had another mate look at it and he's a bit confused as to why there's the 2nd bleed valve if its a piston d/v, he's asked that I get it double checked that its a double piston type instead of a single. And if it is a double then re-pipe it all to get shot of that bleed valve and the t-piece on the amal valve.

 

Take the dump valve off, and take a picture looking inside the large end of it and i can tell you if its a twin piston or not. Take me a picture of the amal valve aswell, it may help