Problem changing clutch cable
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From: Bonnie Scotland
In my wisdon i took it upon myself to change my clutch cable before it snapped. I have now made it worse than it originally was
I eventually managed to connect the new cable to the pedal but can't connect the other end to the clutch fork thingy as i need about 1 or 2mm more length
I remember when i changed it on the xr2 i levered the fork in with a screwdriver and hooked the cable on the end. In the S2 there is nothing to wedge it against except hoses which aren't strong enough
Anyone got had any experience with this??
Cheers
I eventually managed to connect the new cable to the pedal but can't connect the other end to the clutch fork thingy as i need about 1 or 2mm more length
I remember when i changed it on the xr2 i levered the fork in with a screwdriver and hooked the cable on the end. In the S2 there is nothing to wedge it against except hoses which aren't strong enough
Anyone got had any experience with this??
Cheers
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From: Bonnie Scotland
Originally Posted by Jano_OddKidd
Big fook off shiny bar
or crow bar 
or crow bar BTW Jano i wish i didn't even bother now as the dam thing is off the road
You're doing it the wrong way around. First put the other end to the gearbox. Then Apply force to lift the pedal and at the same time rotate the quarter wheel all the way forward. Now it's very easy to slide the cable on. This is not a power contest.
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From: Bonnie Scotland
Originally Posted by JesseT
You're doing it the wrong way around. First put the other end to the gearbox. Then Apply force to lift the pedal and at the same time rotate the quarter wheel all the way forward. Now it's very easy to slide the cable on. This is not a power contest.
BTW i have no idea what you mean by rotating the quarter wheel all the way forward
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Thread Starter
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
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From: Bonnie Scotland
Originally Posted by Jano_OddKidd
Dude just get a crow bar and stop Fcuking about

What a bloody awkward position it's in cos i can't get any strength at this stupid angle. What the hell were ford thinkin trying to squeeze all this stuff into such a small engine bay!! THERE IS NO BLOODY ROOM
Rant over
P.S. I've now spent 3 days on this. The moral of the story - if it aint broke don't fix it
With KE its easier from underneath as you say there is no room from the top. With EFi its easy to get to as everything is.
If you use the top edge of the front gearbox mount with a crow bar it is just enough to engage the clutch a little to be able to put the cable on.
Remove a boost pipe etc.. to gain access if needed.
Not that much of an issue mate once you figure out where to lever from.
Regards
Jano
If you use the top edge of the front gearbox mount with a crow bar it is just enough to engage the clutch a little to be able to put the cable on.
Remove a boost pipe etc.. to gain access if needed.
Not that much of an issue mate once you figure out where to lever from.
Regards
Jano
No no no
This is a 30s two-finger job. Absolute no tools or force required. Yes, first put the cable on to the gearbox end. Then gently lift the pedal as this will unlock the self adjuster. With the adjuster unlocked, turn the adjuster wheel all the way forward (against the spring force). Now place the cable to the hook at the adjuster wheel and let go of everything. Done.
This is a 30s two-finger job. Absolute no tools or force required. Yes, first put the cable on to the gearbox end. Then gently lift the pedal as this will unlock the self adjuster. With the adjuster unlocked, turn the adjuster wheel all the way forward (against the spring force). Now place the cable to the hook at the adjuster wheel and let go of everything. Done.
Originally Posted by JesseT
No no no
This is a 30s two-finger job. Absolute no tools or force required. Yes, first put the cable on to the gearbox end. Then gently lift the pedal as this will unlock the self adjuster. With the adjuster unlocked, turn the adjuster wheel all the way forward (against the spring force). Now place the cable to the hook at the adjuster wheel and let go of everything. Done.
This is a 30s two-finger job. Absolute no tools or force required. Yes, first put the cable on to the gearbox end. Then gently lift the pedal as this will unlock the self adjuster. With the adjuster unlocked, turn the adjuster wheel all the way forward (against the spring force). Now place the cable to the hook at the adjuster wheel and let go of everything. Done.

The above works 100% on a cossie, not sure about an RST
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