i normally just use auto glym polish but i want a better shine, so ive just got some auto glym wax,

for the best results whats the best method to use??

wash, polish then wax or wash, wax then polish? or just stick to a wax or polish ????

or dnt use auto glym at all as i no some people are not fans!! lol


cheers andy

 

From what you have mate..

Wash
Polish
Wax

But i would sudgest getting a clay bar kit to remove all the bonded contaminants and get the paint feeling like glass.

With that it will go:

Wash
Clay
Polish
Wax

Nothing wrong with Autoglym mate, most people who dismiss it i believe are not using it correctly..Yes there are better products but for working by hand (rather than machine) i think you will be hard pressed to see a difference from one product to another

Hope this helps

 

Wax and Polish are two different things. Polish is there mainly to get the "top layer" of crap off your paintwork and reveal and fresh layer underneath. However, to seal in this shine for longer, you then need to apply wax after. One thing to note down though, you need to clay bar a car FIRST before applying polish or wax, as the grit stuck to the paint will be rubbed in.

To get the ultimate shine, you should really look into getting a claybar on the car and then using a rotary to correct any swirls the paintwork will have, as swirls are the exact thing that rob a paintjob of it's shine.

If your only wanting to do it by hand though, then I would do it like so...

Give the car a good rinse, then a wash. Use the two bucket method (One with clean clear water, and the other with your shampoo in). When washing the car, always do the wheels and arches first and then do the body top to bottom. Only use MITTS (Lambswool preferably. You can find budget ones in Halfords.) and DO NOT use sponges.

Once the car has been washed and rinsed, proceed to clay bar the car. Don't bother drying the car after washing as you need to keep the paintwork nice and lubricated, so the water will help with this, as well as the spray that comes with the clay bar kits. The clay bar helps pick up all the grit to stop you from rubbing this grit into the paint when waxing or polishing. A car only needs to be clay barred every month I would say.

Then re-wash/rinse/dry the car. Only dry the car with the proper drying towels or a blower if you have one. DO NOT use one of those squeegee things I see the "Ł2 car wash" people use.

At this point, you need to polish the car. Quite simple, apply between 1-2 coats and let it cure a little, then buff off with a microfiber cloth.

You could re-wash/rinse/dry the car again, but if there's not much polish dust, then you could probably get away with blowing off any polish dust with a blower.

Now you wax the car. Apply as many coats as you like. The more you apply, the more protection your car gets and the easier it will be to clean next time. 3-4 coats should be sufficient, and you can also use wax on the wheels. A little tip for you, apply the wax with a clean, damp microfiber cloth. The dampness of the cloth will help you in applying the wax.

If you have the spare cash, you should also invest in some finishing detail spray.

And just to note, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE use the correct cloths, and not ones that are old clothes or random cloths riddled with tags. This will only do your paintwork more damage than good.

 

cheers guys for the advice, u no what ill b up to 2mora! lol

appreciate the replys

cheers andy

 

how much swirl correction can be done by hand using products like G3??? I know a rotary is quicker but dont have access to one all the time.

 

Not a lot to be honest Warren. You may be able to get rid of some of the swirls by hand, but not only will it take you fookin hours, but your arm will be knackered by the end of it. From my experience, the best way to get rid of some swirls is to use something like Autoglym Super Resin Polish. While this polish does not get rid of the swirls, it does fill in the swirls ever so slightly, and hides them a little, thus making them not so noticeable to the average joe.

Here is a picture of what CAN be achieved with a rotary though. (Picture is not mine FYI.)

Before:


After!

 

For inexperianced people i would recommend staying well clear from G3..
In all honesty i think 90% of bodyshops should not use it, as in my opinion they use it incorrectly and do not finish the job properly.

G3 i am led to believe is a constant abrahsive, by that i mean the polishing particles do not break down.
Most other products that are availiable break down as you work them so you can get a nice finish as posted above but this will require the knowledge of what to use for what job.

I have seen bodyshops machine polish a car with G3 in less than a hour and the car looks great....that is until the sun shines on it and you can see all the buffer trails down the side of the car etc

The best advice is always to use the least agresive polish you can get away with.
G3 is one of the most agresive you can get.

Also Frenchy0204
You mention claying the car once a month, in my opinion it only really needs doing once every 4-6 months and the same with polishing.
Also i keep to 2 layers of wax and only top up if needed between polishing times.

 

Hi yeh all good advice. The autoglym super resin is more of a cleaner and filler than a true polish, although i have had many great results with it.

On all polishes i do even if there a cheap hand polish i always use the same system,

foam
wash
clay
wash
cleanser
polish
cleaner
wax

Important to wax as its like wood-- you can sand the wood untill perfectly smooth but if you dont protect that shine it will go and fast. hope it helps any more info required just ask

 

i sed all auto glym products except clay[meguiars]

washed
clayed
washed
resin polished
sealer
and 7 hours lol

i was happy with it

 

clay
polish
glaze
seal
wax

job done

bin auto glym it's poo, product has never changed since the 90's

 

Some top advice there.Ive used auto glym for years.I think there HD wax is mint.