Mk4 Lew

iTrader: (1)

lol hope its sorted soon

clyde 1800

sorry to hear about your engine
maybe the compression is too high?
thanks for the pictures
my problem is that the previous owner must have cut my water pipe from the head to the radiator

i will have to buy a new one
when your car is running does the water curculate freely and what type of radiator is in your car?
i have the 4x4 cosworth one
thankyou adam if you have any queries just ask

BigPeBe

Compression shouldn't be too high because of the pistons and even stock Pinto's usually take boost quite nicely.

Cooling system is all stock.

BigPeBe

Ok I guess that was enough driving for 2011. Headgasket seems to be ok. Piston in first cylinder not so much...
There is a piece of it missing, probably piece of pistong ring gone too. Oil goes thru without problems. Fooked is fooked what can you do...

If it's possible winter means build time, so maybe 2012 will be a happier year.

Pictures for all of you to enjoy...

Mk4 Lew

iTrader: (1)

shit mate, thats a right kick in the teeth

Tev

iTrader: (2)

Gutted fella but it gives you a excuse to build bigger and stronger

BigPeBe

Yea I guess so. I was thinking about Cossie pistons & rods, but can't say anything sure yet.

clyde 1800

any new updates buddy?

BigPeBe

Nope, haven't yet bought anything.

clyde 1800

ok was your compression too high before and thats why it blew a piston

i have an injection engine and have set it into my engine bay although im having doubts about the compression as many people are telling me its too high

i was wondering do you know the answers to these questions?

will cosworth pistons and conrods fit directly into my block and directly onto my crankshaft?

and what are the differences between cosworth conrods and pinto conrods as i already have bought cosworth pistons although there are no conrods

BigPeBe

No the pistons are low compression pistons so it wasn't the compression. Reason for destroying the piston was most probably too much ignition advance. I had a tad less advance than stock injection Pinto but it still was too much.

If you take care that AFR is good and there's no knock you should be fine with even a stock Pinto, many people run stock compression Pintos with +1 bar of boost with no problems but it's always better to lower it.

Cosworth rods & Pistons should fit Pinto block & crank. 205 injection Pinto block is actually the same block than 205 Cossie one, the bore clearances just are more tight on the "selected" Cossie blocks.
Pinto crank is fine, it's even a bit lighter than the Cossie one.

Pinto rods are shorter than Cossie ones so if you fit Cossie pistons to Pinto rods you will get even a lower compression, but the pistons won't reach the deck of the block. I think Cossie rods and pistons are better because you have better shaped combustion chamber and the compression is good with them, compression with Pinto rods & Cossie Pistons is even a bit too low I guess. Of course all this stuff depends on what spec you are building. But I would go for Cossie rods too.

clyde 1800

thankyou for your advice you are very helpful i will post more pictures of my car and my project for you to see
i will go with your advice and put in cosworth pistons and rods
i have one more question
how much boost can i achieve with cosworth pistons and conrods?
and what would be a safe bar of boost be for this set up and what bhp is it likely to achieve?

BigPeBe

If you get a proper headgasket like GrpA Cossie one like I have going for the next build you can pretty much use as much boost as you dare, if all is being measured properly during engine build so you know you have a proper engine this combination can take big amounts of boost. People have been able to measure dyno graphs of 400+ bhp with 1.5-2.0 bar of boost with Cossie pistons & rods + Pinto head with some work & mild cam.

I would suggest you to also measure the volume of combustion chambers in the head so you can actually calculate the real compression ratio, just to be sure. These are old heads already and many of them have been skimmed at some point of their lives.

I myself probably are going for 1.5 bar of boost at some point but at start 1 is enough, it's pretty safe if everything is done properly & engine is tuned with care.

I assume your engine is going for stock injection Pinto head? Assuming any bhp numbers is always a bit of a guessing game, every engine and builder and tuner are unike so of course you can never be sure. But with this kinda engine I wouldn't go for anything less than 200 bhp. With 1bar of boost you are most probably already way past of it and the torque of boosted Pinto is awesome.

Glad to help tho you have to remember I'm not a guru or anything I'm still fairly new to these things, this all is just knowledge I have been collecting from all around for last few years.

clyde 1800

im in the same boat mate im learing too learnt alot from you and i am very grateful
will my car run ok with the standard pinto with the turbo for now until such times as i put cosworth pistons and conrods in?

take a look at my thread now and see my progress

BigPeBe

It should run fine there's loads of stock Pintos running boost so shouldn't be a problem if the engine is in good nick and you can tune it properly. Of course you can never be 100% sure but I guess it's a part of this hobby.

clyde 1800

how is your build coming along bepe?
i have a few questions if you can please
1.)can you show me picture of your adapting bracket from the airflow to the air cone just to give me a few ideas please
2.)can you also show me how your dumpvalve is positioned and all its connections
thats all i think i need thankyou with all your help to date and i will be sure to keep in touch even when my car is complete

BigPeBe

Nothing have happened yet, I'm slowly saving the money for the parts and looking for good opportunities.

1. I bought it as a ready piece for about 7 euros, basically it's just a flat plate with screw holes in it and a hole for the airflow meter and then a short tube welded to it 7" in sice IIRC.

2. There's no dump valve, I prefer the chatter. It had a crappy plastic BOSCH recirc dump valve but I removed it and blocked the hole. But it was in the tube between IC and throttle body and the pressure pipe was connected to the intake manifold and the recirculation was tubed to the pipe between airflow meter and turbo.

I guess this means you're going to run it with the EEC-IV too? What injectors are you using and do you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. You need these + tighten the airflow meters spring to get it working.

-EDIT- Found a picture of the adapter http://www.biltema.fi/osteri/data/we...e/33-248_l.jpg

clyde 1800

have you got a link where i could buy one of these adapters?
im just going to run a standard engine with standard loom atm its much easier and not as costly
and thankyou for the advice
could you show me how to tighten the spring?
and i am taking the car to a turbo specialist to put it on the rolling road again he will fit a fuel pressure regulator for me and set the engine up

BigPeBe

Nope sorry. I bought it from a local Biltema, dunno if you have similar stores over there.

What kind of injectors you have? Or is the tuner going to fit better injectors too? The stock injectors are only good for about 140 bhp I guess so you really need bigger ones. It's easy to tighten the spring, if you just open the cover from the airflow meter you will probably get it it it's a very simple mechanic. But if a specialist is going to do the tuning he will probably do the tightening too, at least for me it was a case of several tries and errors before it was good for the injectors I had. The injectors I had were even a bit bigger than Cossie injectors and the idle fuel pressure was as high than 3 bar + tightened spring this was good for about 0.9 bar of peak boost without it leaning out.

-EDIT- Now thinking more of it I would actually assume that the tuner is going to chip the ECU for your spec? Since it's more common I think. Don't think many tuners will fiddle around with airflow meters and stuff.

clyde 1800

he probably will map the brain although i would like some advice on the injectors if you have any?
and so you say my best bet is to get a bracket for my airflow made?

Paul_RS

iTrader: (4)

Nobody here can map EECIV management? Nobody here can do the Cosworth Webber stuff either. So the only way to get your car mapped here is to change to aftermarket management

BigPeBe

Well the injectors I have are 332cc SMP D17208A. It had a 4wd Cossie injectors but I changed to these because for EEC-IV it's better to have high resistance injectors.

If you can't find a bracket or make by your own I guess so then.

clyde 1800

ok i really hope im not bothering you bepe its just im totally clueles and you seem to have all the answers

these injectors what do they belong to oridginally? cosworth? what colour are they?
youve been much help to me and ive given you a rep power thankyou and i will update my post with lots of pictures next week when i get home

BigPeBe

No problem glad to help.

Like I said, the injectors it had originally were 4wd cossie ones (blue injectors). But I'd suggest to not to use Cossie injectors because they are low resistance injectors and can potentially fry your ECU.

332cc SMP D17208A are my current injectors and I'd guess their not originally from any type of car. They are aftermarket injectors I just selected from the catalog of one shop that is here near by me. I'm only guessing but there should be some sellers in Ireland too (that's where you live?) what can deliver you the injectors you want.

Basically I just checked the catalog and picked the high resistance injectors what were closest to the stock Cossie injectors by size (332cc/min). Don't remember what was the size of the Cossie ones but it was close to 320cc IIRC so these are tad bit better.

clyde 1800

to put this into perspective what prices would the injectors be?
what price would a mega squirt ecu be?

and just out of curiousity what price is your engine standing? going to stand?

BigPeBe

IIRC the injectors were ~200 euros. Megasquirt can be anywhere around 200 to 500 euros depending on the setup and how much of it you DYI.

Impossible to say, there is really no big market for these parts so if I'm lucky I'll find them cheap or it can go really up and cost big numbers. I'm not even sure about next spec it all depends how much the first parts on the list will end up costing and if there is any left over money I could spend it on another upgrades like bigger turbo & ic & more aggressive cam but just by now it seems unlikely.

I don't like to calculate much I pretty much just buy what I can whenever I can.

blue oval 24v

fair play but id just do the work to the pinto (head work big cam and 48's and so on seam like a lot off work and hard ŁŁŁ to get the with good bhp and boost??have been in turbo'd pinto's and they do go well but why not just fit sr20/24v cosworth/s2000 and so on and leave the pinto with carbs the way they where meant to be

BigPeBe

Much cheaper than the other options and easy to fit. + I'm familiar with the Pinto already and kinda fond to it.

BigPeBe

Well now it's ready for winter. Would be better if I had proper garage, but this has to do now. Last pictures before snow fall. Looking a bit sorry for itself, but should be getting better next spring.







Bits and bobs:

BigPeBe

Finally my set of 2wd Cosworth pistons & rods and piston rings arrived.
Connecting rods even have a good looking bearings in them, tho I'm still gonna order new ones for the build.
Now just gotta find a 205 block in std size.





Guess these are the marks of someone else's misfortune.

robrs2

nowt wrong with pintos with turbos on. Ford did it then cosworth sorted the week bits.
My mk2

BigPeBe

Yeah actually in Finland there were some "Stockmann turbo" Sierras and Scorpios available from new. They were the 1.3 and 1.6 Pintos turbo'd by the importing firm in the 80's. They weren't really performance cars but still boosted OHC engines available from new.

I myself find the Pinto turbo or in this case "ohcworth" engine appealing because of the widely available parts and knowledge and they have been proven strong and good when done properly.

BTW I love mk2's was actually saving for one before I bought this Sierra but ended up spending all on this.

BigPeBe

Bought a MegaSquirt 1 V2.2 unit. I have to mod it some before it's ready for my usage. It was before in another Turbo Pinto Sierra, but it used a wasted spark system and a VR sensor. I will use the Ford TFI with the original distributor so that extra board (I believe it's a VR conditioner) has to be removed then the board modified like this.
I'm not 100% sure about the procedure but I posted few questions on Finnish Megasquirt and Ford forums.

Pictures:




I also ordered a T3/4 and a Tial style 38mm wastegate, so I guess I'll be listening the scream of the screamer pipe next summer.

BigPeBe

Bought an YB 205 std size block. It's already been honed. Slight scratches visible but I'd say it's fine for my use. Little surface rust on the journals but don't think removing the rust will be a much of a hassle. Oiled it up to prevent any rusting while it's being stored.

James-W

How much shorter are pinto rods? What comp ratio would a standard pinto engine give with cos pistons and pinto rods?

BigPeBe

Don't remember. I might be wrong but Cossie pistons + rods and OHC head (with stock combustion chambers) would be somewhere around 7.9-8.2:1 so with Pinto rods it would be even lower. BUT this is only a figure I remember reading somewhere and my memory might be wrong.

DaxRiders

Do you know skogenracing.com ?

BigPeBe

I'm familiar with their work.

DaxRiders

Me too.

BigPeBe

Today arrived an almost ready to use wiring loom and COM --> USB adapter and I also went and bought few different resistors for the TFI mod.