'86 Sierra 3dr iS 2.0 Turbo Pinto (planning for bigger spec))
-EDIT- 29.05.2014 Updated the current spec to the first post:
'86 2.0 iS with:
Cossie pistons & rods.
Mildly ported injection head.
Burton BF134 + hard pad followers + Crane valve springs.
Cosworth GrpA headgasket.
Chinese GT3582 turbo.
38mm wastegate.
Big intercooler.
Engine management is Megasquirt 1 V2.2 with:
-TFi mod
-External 3bar map
-Electronic boost control
BOSCH EV14 670cc injectors.
3" exhaust.
307 hp & 380 Nm @ ~1.5 bar
XR4i discs at front (Ferodo brake pads) and disc brakes at rear.
XR4i front antirollbar.
Spax -40 springs.
Sierra ZF PAS rack with Astra G electric hydraulic pump.
7.5" 3.62 diff with "tightened" viscous LSD.
Stripped interior, bucket seat for the driver (+ Momo Prototipo
).





From here on the original post continues:
-EDIT- 20.8.2011 updated the facts to the current state and some new pictures too:




Old pictures from the original post below:






As you may see the paint job on engine bay is fugly but it'll do for now.
Got this for really cheap because it didn't start at all, no spark or fuel. Hours job of testing wires relays etc. and finally we realized that the problem was just a one faulty connector on a wire what goes from battery + to the fuel pump relay. After replacing the connector it fired right up and ran beautifully!
After that we disabled the recirculation from the dump valve and after that fired it up again and adjusted the ignition timing to where it should. Let the engine warm up and listened the engine and it sounds really good.
EEC-IV with the Cossie injectors is an interesting combination, needs some tuning because now under 2500 rpm it doesn't run properly, so rich that it actually gives a strong black smoke, but after 2500 smoking stops and feels really rev-happy (like turbo engine should).
Anyway had some fun teasing neighbors with thick black smoke.
Hopefully adjusting the spring in the MAF is enough to get leaner AFR on lower rpms, get it stiffer so it won't open the flap inside much before it hits boost.
Some blue smoke and dump valve spitted a bit of oil out, but the engine has been standing for at least a year so I'm not badly concerned yet. Tho it is possible that the turbo needs an overhaul, we'll see about that when I get to drive it at least a bit.
Water hose leaks, gonna be an easy fix (reason for the dish under the car).
Current to-do-list before MOT:
Oil change
Replace timing belt
Get engine to run properly
Remove dump valve
Replace right track rod
Some electric work
Lighten it up, meaning that the interior is going to get stripped some
Tidy up the cockpit
+Some other little stuff like the front grille, gonna put a standard iS one in white color
Plans don't include much buffin, or making it a looker of any kind. Semi-rat-look sleeperish style is something I have in my mind.
LSD would possibly be in future buy list too.
Dunno what kind of clutch it has, if it's stock it's possible I have to get a better one before I can put enough boost for 200+ bhp.
Already have stripped quite much from the interior, there's not much to strip behind the front seats anymore.
'86 2.0 iS with:
Cossie pistons & rods.
Mildly ported injection head.
Burton BF134 + hard pad followers + Crane valve springs.
Cosworth GrpA headgasket.
Chinese GT3582 turbo.
38mm wastegate.
Big intercooler.
Engine management is Megasquirt 1 V2.2 with:
-TFi mod
-External 3bar map
-Electronic boost control
BOSCH EV14 670cc injectors.
3" exhaust.
307 hp & 380 Nm @ ~1.5 bar
XR4i discs at front (Ferodo brake pads) and disc brakes at rear.
XR4i front antirollbar.
Spax -40 springs.
Sierra ZF PAS rack with Astra G electric hydraulic pump.
7.5" 3.62 diff with "tightened" viscous LSD.
Stripped interior, bucket seat for the driver (+ Momo Prototipo





From here on the original post continues:
-EDIT- 20.8.2011 updated the facts to the current state and some new pictures too:




Old pictures from the original post below:






As you may see the paint job on engine bay is fugly but it'll do for now.
Got this for really cheap because it didn't start at all, no spark or fuel. Hours job of testing wires relays etc. and finally we realized that the problem was just a one faulty connector on a wire what goes from battery + to the fuel pump relay. After replacing the connector it fired right up and ran beautifully!
After that we disabled the recirculation from the dump valve and after that fired it up again and adjusted the ignition timing to where it should. Let the engine warm up and listened the engine and it sounds really good.
EEC-IV with the Cossie injectors is an interesting combination, needs some tuning because now under 2500 rpm it doesn't run properly, so rich that it actually gives a strong black smoke, but after 2500 smoking stops and feels really rev-happy (like turbo engine should).
Anyway had some fun teasing neighbors with thick black smoke.
Hopefully adjusting the spring in the MAF is enough to get leaner AFR on lower rpms, get it stiffer so it won't open the flap inside much before it hits boost.
Some blue smoke and dump valve spitted a bit of oil out, but the engine has been standing for at least a year so I'm not badly concerned yet. Tho it is possible that the turbo needs an overhaul, we'll see about that when I get to drive it at least a bit.
Water hose leaks, gonna be an easy fix (reason for the dish under the car).
Current to-do-list before MOT:
Oil change
Replace timing belt
Get engine to run properly
Remove dump valve
Replace right track rod
Some electric work
Lighten it up, meaning that the interior is going to get stripped some
Tidy up the cockpit
+Some other little stuff like the front grille, gonna put a standard iS one in white color
Plans don't include much buffin, or making it a looker of any kind. Semi-rat-look sleeperish style is something I have in my mind.
LSD would possibly be in future buy list too.
Dunno what kind of clutch it has, if it's stock it's possible I have to get a better one before I can put enough boost for 200+ bhp.
Already have stripped quite much from the interior, there's not much to strip behind the front seats anymore.
Last edited by BigPeBe; Oct 3, 2015 at 08:12 PM.
Did a fast little test on the driveway today, turbo seems to spool up really nicely. Only tried in first gear but when I pushed accelerator down almost immediately got ~0.7 bar of boost. Then a boost pipe came off because I forgot to install the hose clip on lol.
But at least it seems like it moves without any outside help.
But at least it seems like it moves without any outside help.
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This one was 900 euros tho I probably got it cheaper than most of them go for, since it had been sitting for a long time and was kinda of a risk buy with engine not starting and all. But yeah they're not big money and I think there are already some people buying older cars from here and exporting them out to other countries.
love the 2.0i S - when i was a kid my dad had a black one and we all used to call it "Kit" from Knight Rider
still remember the reg - C314 RPH.
now i wish i kept the pinto in my 3dr and just turbo'd it rather than spunking loadsa cash on a cossie lump and breaking down on the way back
still remember the reg - C314 RPH.now i wish i kept the pinto in my 3dr and just turbo'd it rather than spunking loadsa cash on a cossie lump and breaking down on the way back
Timing belt & tensioner changed, oils changed, removed dump-valve. Also drained the coolant out since I was supposed to start fitting the sensor for the electric cooling fan, but I had bought wrong sized adapter and it didn't fit the coolant hose so didn't got far there... But I already started the wiring job for it and also noticed that the fan wasn't attached from the bottom end at all so made a mounting for it and now it fits nicely.
TY
Nice comments always give some motivation...
Today I finally got to convert the cooling fan so it works automatically. Seems to work fine. Bleeded coolant system. Adjusted the spring in MAF so it's tighter now and now engine works even at low rpm's beatifully. Did a little test on the driveway again, now in second gear, pulled quite nicely even without much boost. Seems like I read the boost gauge wrong first time cause now there was much less boost. Needs some adjusting.
Made a decision, gonna order TurboSmart Boost Tee, wideband AFR sensor/meter and FMI 4.3 RPM limiter. I wan't the limiter so I can adjust it so it cuts ignition just before it would hit the factory fuel cut limiter. Don't wanna let it lean out.
Nice comments always give some motivation...
Today I finally got to convert the cooling fan so it works automatically. Seems to work fine. Bleeded coolant system. Adjusted the spring in MAF so it's tighter now and now engine works even at low rpm's beatifully. Did a little test on the driveway again, now in second gear, pulled quite nicely even without much boost. Seems like I read the boost gauge wrong first time cause now there was much less boost. Needs some adjusting.
Made a decision, gonna order TurboSmart Boost Tee, wideband AFR sensor/meter and FMI 4.3 RPM limiter. I wan't the limiter so I can adjust it so it cuts ignition just before it would hit the factory fuel cut limiter. Don't wanna let it lean out.
Last edited by BigPeBe; Jun 4, 2011 at 05:37 PM.
Damn the lower coolant hose still leaks. I tried to seal it yesterday but doesn't seem like a success then I guess... Need to sort that out still, maybe it's possible that there is a little crack on the hose not seeable to the eyes and only opens after the coolant system gets some pressure.
Last edited by BigPeBe; Jun 6, 2011 at 03:48 PM.
Continued with the interior stripping today. Rest of the belts & back seat removed. Also found a little spot what needs a bit of a welding. Already knew this place but now I removed the floor mat over it and banged it a little with a screwdriver to see how it really is. Nothing major gonna be a fast fix I think.
Also removed rest of the glue stains on the roof what the roof lining left behind.
Starting to look less confy (like it's supposed to):

Also checked the number on injectors 3522/10, anyone knows where I could search them and get some proper info on them?
Also removed rest of the glue stains on the roof what the roof lining left behind.
Starting to look less confy (like it's supposed to):

Also checked the number on injectors 3522/10, anyone knows where I could search them and get some proper info on them?
Dunno really yet because engine isn't tuned yet and only has little boost so haven't been able to really drive it just done some quick tests... But on stock Pinto approx 0,7bar of boost should give about 200bhp maybe little under maybe little over. And should be very torquish.
Last edited by BigPeBe; Jun 12, 2011 at 10:04 PM.
Nope, it's original EEC-IV with Cossie injectors. Needs some fiddling around with MAF and maybe fuel pressure to get it running right.
Yesterday I changed the valve cover seal and adjusted valve clearances.
Yesterday I changed the valve cover seal and adjusted valve clearances.
Installed AFR meter/sensor & calibrated it and wired the RPM limiter, but didn't yet attach it to anywhere since the lower part of dash isn't installed yet. Also started putting interior together.
Been quite busy with other things lately but good thing is that at last I got the Turbosmart boost controller installed and changed the air filter and changed the leaking coolant pipe.
Sorry can't really say anything from that. Would just be a guess work.
Maybe you could make a new topic explaining all the symptons and all the specs of the engine amount of boost type of carb etc. etc. I guess you could get some help?
Maybe you could make a new topic explaining all the symptons and all the specs of the engine amount of boost type of carb etc. etc. I guess you could get some help?
Oh lol again I was jumping to conclusions too fast. It wasn't the coolant pipe what leaked, it's actually the water pump / or / and it's seal. Oh well gonna buy one and probably change it during weekend.
Installed the injector resistors but now I have some problems. Still works fine when on full throttle but impossible to drive carefully at low rpms and doesn't wanna idle. Before installing resistance was 2 ohms and now it's 3.
It ran beatifully before even the AFR meter readings on boost & off boost were perfect, so don't think mapping the ecu is needed. But now with the resistors it did this which is quite weird I think. Many people use resistors with low resistance injectors without problems. Tho the next thing on list is to drain the old fuel out and put some new in because it's probably really old. Then I will make a new test.
Last edited by BigPeBe; Jul 24, 2011 at 07:41 PM.
TY for the link tho didn't really give me any new info.
To answer my own question, yes Cossie & iS standard injectors are 75mm in size.
Also got some info on the required resistance and at least in theory 3 ohms isn't enough. I'm probably gonna order bigger resistors AND mathcing high resistance injectors and gonna try the resistors first only if it fails I'm going to try with the different injectors.
To answer my own question, yes Cossie & iS standard injectors are 75mm in size.
Also got some info on the required resistance and at least in theory 3 ohms isn't enough. I'm probably gonna order bigger resistors AND mathcing high resistance injectors and gonna try the resistors first only if it fails I'm going to try with the different injectors.
Today I installed bigger resistors and now I have approx same resistance for injectors in both Sierras so it should be ok. Also bought pair of short type head lights and a slightly pervy looking bucket seat.
Done a lot of different things lately, spent pretty much whole last weekend on this, just haven't had enough interest in reporting. Getting very close to MOT now. Now with the turbosmart we did a little more testing and now the boost was just under 0.7 bar and less laggy and the turbo kick was much more aggressive gotta say pulled quite nicely actually.
After changing the water pump my friend noticed that the thermostat casing was leaking but already sorted that out with a new gasket.
Installed windscreen washer.
Interior is starting to be MOT ready. After all decided to not to install the lower part of dash + glovebox but instead installed a "codriver" bag. Meaning that I man'd upped a man-bag and secured it with few zip-ties to the place where glovebox originally was. Also I don't need a center consoler for the heater and rpm-limiter as you may see from the pictures below.
I'm tempted to strip the door guards (or what the hell they are in English) but I'm afraid that the exposed lock linkages etc. may be too attractive for thiefs and other scum like that.
Probably forgot to tell something, but here's some pictures for you:



Done a lot of different things lately, spent pretty much whole last weekend on this, just haven't had enough interest in reporting. Getting very close to MOT now. Now with the turbosmart we did a little more testing and now the boost was just under 0.7 bar and less laggy and the turbo kick was much more aggressive gotta say pulled quite nicely actually.
After changing the water pump my friend noticed that the thermostat casing was leaking but already sorted that out with a new gasket.
Installed windscreen washer.
Interior is starting to be MOT ready. After all decided to not to install the lower part of dash + glovebox but instead installed a "codriver" bag. Meaning that I man'd upped a man-bag and secured it with few zip-ties to the place where glovebox originally was. Also I don't need a center consoler for the heater and rpm-limiter as you may see from the pictures below.
I'm tempted to strip the door guards (or what the hell they are in English) but I'm afraid that the exposed lock linkages etc. may be too attractive for thiefs and other scum like that.
Probably forgot to tell something, but here's some pictures for you:



Last edited by BigPeBe; Jul 29, 2011 at 06:55 PM.
Plan was to drive some tests and tune engine & boost today for MOT & road usage but my "daily drive" had another plans:
https://passionford.com/forum/restor...ml#post5564390
https://passionford.com/forum/restor...ml#post5564390
Seems like it's impossible to get it working with the bigger resistors. When throttle is opened just very little AFR goes so lean that Innovate runs out of scale.
Next thing to do is to try getting it to work with the resistors I had on earlier and also probably gonna order big resistance injectors and try them out at some point.
Oh well at least tested the rpm liter out today, works good.
Next thing to do is to try getting it to work with the resistors I had on earlier and also probably gonna order big resistance injectors and try them out at some point.
Oh well at least tested the rpm liter out today, works good.
After some frustrating moments it seems that resistors are a no no.
But I read somewhere that the EEC-IV can actually stand low resistance injectors quite nicely so I'm not majorly worried. Altho I bought myself a set of 332cc/min 16 ohm injectors so maybe at some point I will be installing them.
Changed the spark plugs to colder Motorcraft ones.
After all the problems I've had with this today finally I got it running right.
Funny incident happened, while I was on my maybe second or third test run suddenly it stopped making boost and started to jerk annoyingly, but good thing is that I was still able to drive back home. At home when engine was running I popped the hood and didn't seem to find any disconnected boost pipes or anything so it got me wondering whattehell was this. Then I applied some throttle and it became very clear, the little "patent" (piece of iron wire) what was holding wastegate actuator's linkage to the wastegate itself had failed and the wastegate arm was jumping around like mad.
After mending this little problem I was good to go and had finally found a quite good setting for the VAF spring so now I had really good AFR readings and car was very drivable no any jerking or anything weird as easy to drive as my N/A stock injection Pinto.
Maybe some people with their 500 bhp Cossies don't feel this as anything special, but I gotta say it really felt awesome to first time in my life to have a nicely pulling turbo engine under the command of my right leg.
Also gotta love the turbo chatter even if it wasn't really that loud with the current boost (about 0.75 bar was the peak). Tomorrow I'm probably going to make the VAF's spring a tidy bit tighter and hopefully it's going to make the AFR a little bit leaner on lower RPM without affecting on boost ratios.
Also noticed that really the back muffler needs to be removed. Just too civilized sounding for my taste currently, I like my engines in a bit of a hooligan side.
-EDIT- Forgot to add, yesterday I bought myself a full rear axle with LSD and disc brakes. Going to make it under this car at some point.
But I read somewhere that the EEC-IV can actually stand low resistance injectors quite nicely so I'm not majorly worried. Altho I bought myself a set of 332cc/min 16 ohm injectors so maybe at some point I will be installing them.
Changed the spark plugs to colder Motorcraft ones.
After all the problems I've had with this today finally I got it running right.
Funny incident happened, while I was on my maybe second or third test run suddenly it stopped making boost and started to jerk annoyingly, but good thing is that I was still able to drive back home. At home when engine was running I popped the hood and didn't seem to find any disconnected boost pipes or anything so it got me wondering whattehell was this. Then I applied some throttle and it became very clear, the little "patent" (piece of iron wire) what was holding wastegate actuator's linkage to the wastegate itself had failed and the wastegate arm was jumping around like mad.

After mending this little problem I was good to go and had finally found a quite good setting for the VAF spring so now I had really good AFR readings and car was very drivable no any jerking or anything weird as easy to drive as my N/A stock injection Pinto.
Maybe some people with their 500 bhp Cossies don't feel this as anything special, but I gotta say it really felt awesome to first time in my life to have a nicely pulling turbo engine under the command of my right leg.
Also noticed that really the back muffler needs to be removed. Just too civilized sounding for my taste currently, I like my engines in a bit of a hooligan side.
-EDIT- Forgot to add, yesterday I bought myself a full rear axle with LSD and disc brakes. Going to make it under this car at some point.
Last edited by BigPeBe; Aug 6, 2011 at 05:35 PM.



