Mk3 fiesta si 2 litter zetec
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Mk3 fiesta si 2 litter zetec
HI PEPOLE'S THIS IS MY MK3 FIESTA SI 2 LITTER ZETEC I HAVENT OWENED THE CAR TO LONG I BOUGHT THE CAR FROM HCS PIMP ON FIESTA TURBO WEB SITE THE CAR IS AN AMAZING CAR REALLY WELL BALACED THAT WILL AND DOES PUT A LOT OF BIGGER CARS TO SHAME SPEACIALY ON THE COURNERS THE SPEC LIST IS AS FOLLOWS
THE SI NOW
THE FLOOR PAN IS IN MINT CONDITION BUT A SMALL MISS HAP INVOLVING TURNING A COURNER INTO LOADS OF DEEP POT HOLES AND MADE A LONG CRACK IN THE PASSENGER FOOTWELL NOTHING A QUICK WELD WONT SORT OUT
THE HOLE UNDER BODY HAS BEEN WAX OILED TO GIVE MORE LIFE TO THE LOVELY CLEAN UNDERBODY
- 2 LITTER ZETEC CONVERTION
- 2 LITTER MAF SENSOR
- K&N 57I INDUCTION KIT
- POWER FLOW BACK BOX
- DE CAT
- ESCORT COSWOTH 4X4 CALIPERS
- H&R COILOVERS
- PARADA SPEC 2 TYRES
THE SI NOW
THE FLOOR PAN IS IN MINT CONDITION BUT A SMALL MISS HAP INVOLVING TURNING A COURNER INTO LOADS OF DEEP POT HOLES AND MADE A LONG CRACK IN THE PASSENGER FOOTWELL NOTHING A QUICK WELD WONT SORT OUT
THE HOLE UNDER BODY HAS BEEN WAX OILED TO GIVE MORE LIFE TO THE LOVELY CLEAN UNDERBODY
Last edited by THE HOG~; 20-02-2009 at 08:38 PM.
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bad news for my fez today (dont worry i havent crashed it lol )
but it is of the road as i jumped into it today and it was totally undrivable really unsettled thruw the revs wonts to pull dosnt wont to pull goes crazy then goes flat.
i have replaced the spark plaugs leads and unplugged the maf still no change i have had issues with smooth pull thruw the rev range before but its largly to do with the maf and clutch cable and the 1.6 manifold didnt help.
but this has to be somthing difernt maybe some wiring has been friged of a plug loose some were but i have exsasted my brains all day looked and looked i cannot see anthing tomorow i am goin to take out the wiring loom and check every cm of it and the ecu also as i have had problems with wiring looms and ecu's before but never with a ford.
i havent made any more mods to throw out the engines sync like wakin mods in wi out a chip to bring it together so i cannot under stand it hopfully tomorrow will have some answears i hope lol also i have tried all the filters and stuff for blocks nothing all clean and fine. :x
but it is of the road as i jumped into it today and it was totally undrivable really unsettled thruw the revs wonts to pull dosnt wont to pull goes crazy then goes flat.
i have replaced the spark plaugs leads and unplugged the maf still no change i have had issues with smooth pull thruw the rev range before but its largly to do with the maf and clutch cable and the 1.6 manifold didnt help.
but this has to be somthing difernt maybe some wiring has been friged of a plug loose some were but i have exsasted my brains all day looked and looked i cannot see anthing tomorow i am goin to take out the wiring loom and check every cm of it and the ecu also as i have had problems with wiring looms and ecu's before but never with a ford.
i havent made any more mods to throw out the engines sync like wakin mods in wi out a chip to bring it together so i cannot under stand it hopfully tomorrow will have some answears i hope lol also i have tried all the filters and stuff for blocks nothing all clean and fine. :x
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found the fault today was a roasted wire in the loom sourted it now runs fine but i am goin'g to have to adress heat issue's in the engine bay and wire organasition so i'm going to tidy all wiring up make sure it's took'd safe away to stop any wires gettin melted again and also i think i will cover all wires with heat sheath and thermo tape to stop wires gettin burned as i am plannig a street track slag so the sheath should be a big help under hard use will post some pics when the parts get delivered and i have fitted them
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also thaught i would post some pics of the car after a t cut and a good wash wi shampoo and a lick of wonder wheel's came up a treat and i had not even put on the polish ither would be twice the result if i had but it started to rain just like typical british weather lol
Last edited by THE HOG~; 10-03-2009 at 08:29 PM.
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all depends really on what fiesta your going to convert it from its a lot more work with the 1 litter to 1.4 litter and not really too much work to convert the 1.6 and its a dodle to convert the 1.8
here is a link ul get all you need from this
http://www.escortevolution.co.uk/for...howtopic=87890
here is a link ul get all you need from this
http://www.escortevolution.co.uk/for...howtopic=87890
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Here is a revised list for fitting 2.0 Zetec Silvertop to a 1.6/ 1.8 Escort/ Orion.
Where 1.8 is mentioned you can substitute this for your 1.6 part.
Here is the list of parts I would advise you to buy:
New clutch kit
Water pump gasket
Sump gasket
Oil pick up pipe gasket
Auxiliary drive belt (Ł14 new)
Cam belt kit
New Zetec oil filter (Ł3 new)
Oil pump seal
Oil pump gasket
Inlet gasket
Exhaust gasket
Water pump (Ł35 new)
Here is the list of parts you want to salvage from your old engine:
Oil pump (Ł90 new)
Alternator/ power steering pumps and assembly (ac too if you have it)
Sump
Oil pick up pipe
Rear engine mount
Gearbox and mounts
Exhaust and manifold
Inlet manifold
Dipstick tube
Front breather
Gearbox dowels
Throttle linkage system
Here is the list of parts you want to re-use from your new engine:
MAF
TB
ECU please see the other guide.
Source yourself a Mondeo engine. Goes without saying really.
Disconnect all wires, remove the rad, clutch cable, throttle cable, speedo cable, heater matrix pipes, power steering pipes, inc the one which fits into the rack, air box etc. You really should know this for yourself.
Remove your engine and box, Id suggest as one piece and dropping it out the bottom of the car, you may prefer splitting them in the car and taking them out that way, but to me its easier to do that when removed. If you are not confident enough to remove your engine STOP NOW. Be sure to empty the oil/ coolant/ power steering fluid first, unless you are really careful and wish to leave the power steering intact and tied out the way on the shell.
Right, you start by stripping all the ancillaries from the 2.0 and all the associated brackets until you are left with a bare block, in doing so you should have also removed the auxiliary drive belt, now take off the cam belt cover and remove the cam belt making sure you lock the pulleys before cam belt removal. They will only lock one way, and can be done with a 5mm piece of metal bar if you dont want to buy the correct tool from Ford. Now remove the water pump, clean the mating surface on the block, fit the new gasket and then fit the new 1.8 pump, reassemble the cam belt kit. At this stage it is a good idea to swap the oil pump for the one off your 1.8, as this angles differently to the 2.0 one, and allows the use of proper size filters, and means the sway bar isnt in the way of an oil filter change. Again clean the mating surface, apply the gasket, and fit the pump. You will need to remove the seal on the pump so you can get it to fit the crank correctly. Once its on refit a new seal.
Now turn your attention to the other side and remove the 2.0 flywheel and replace it with the 1.8 one. NOTE that if you have used a Mondeo auto you will have replaced its flat wheel with a fly wheel, you will need to fit the correct CPS, and holder. Do this while the fly wheel is OFF. Now remove the sump and the oil pickup pipe and again replace with the 1.8 items making sure you replace the pick up and sump gasket. At this stage I left the oil filter on until the engine was in situe in the car.
Now fit your new 1.8 clutch kit, this can be substituted for a RS Turbo kit dependant on what power you plan to run with the engine, and all the engine brackets and ancillaries from the 1.8 until it looks exactly like the one you took out of your car, you may need to remove some studs from the 2.0 block to fit your bits, if you do not have the correct tool you can use the method of locking 2 nuts together to release it.
Refit your exhaust manifold with its new gasket, and then the power steering/ alternator set up, as these can obscure the exhaust studs. Next move onto the inlet, you may wish to use a 1.8 one instead of your 1.6 as different people claim different things. This is up to you. Change the fuel rail and injectors for the ones off the Mondeo, and fit to the block. By now your engine should be looking more like an engine again.
Change the dowels that the gearbox locates on for the ones from the Escort, as there a slightly different size, fit your clutch and refit your gearbox.
Refit to the car, making sure you refill your coolant, power steering, and oil (nows a good time to change the oil filter too). Refit all the cables and wiring, along with the 2.0 MAF.
The throttle body was a bit more complicated, and required a lot of messing around witht he cast manifold, as you want to use your escorts throttle linkage system on the new throttle body. So I will cover this soon.
If you are using the plastic Escort manifold then you only need to change the plate that the throttle cable attatches to.
Refit the throttle body with the 1.6 parts added, and connect everything back up.
That should be your lot.
Please note this is an updated version of Simon H1s guide, so thanks to him for adding that in the first place. If you think Ive missed something out please pm me to notify me.
Where 1.8 is mentioned you can substitute this for your 1.6 part.
Here is the list of parts I would advise you to buy:
New clutch kit
Water pump gasket
Sump gasket
Oil pick up pipe gasket
Auxiliary drive belt (Ł14 new)
Cam belt kit
New Zetec oil filter (Ł3 new)
Oil pump seal
Oil pump gasket
Inlet gasket
Exhaust gasket
Water pump (Ł35 new)
Here is the list of parts you want to salvage from your old engine:
Oil pump (Ł90 new)
Alternator/ power steering pumps and assembly (ac too if you have it)
Sump
Oil pick up pipe
Rear engine mount
Gearbox and mounts
Exhaust and manifold
Inlet manifold
Dipstick tube
Front breather
Gearbox dowels
Throttle linkage system
Here is the list of parts you want to re-use from your new engine:
MAF
TB
ECU please see the other guide.
Source yourself a Mondeo engine. Goes without saying really.
Disconnect all wires, remove the rad, clutch cable, throttle cable, speedo cable, heater matrix pipes, power steering pipes, inc the one which fits into the rack, air box etc. You really should know this for yourself.
Remove your engine and box, Id suggest as one piece and dropping it out the bottom of the car, you may prefer splitting them in the car and taking them out that way, but to me its easier to do that when removed. If you are not confident enough to remove your engine STOP NOW. Be sure to empty the oil/ coolant/ power steering fluid first, unless you are really careful and wish to leave the power steering intact and tied out the way on the shell.
Right, you start by stripping all the ancillaries from the 2.0 and all the associated brackets until you are left with a bare block, in doing so you should have also removed the auxiliary drive belt, now take off the cam belt cover and remove the cam belt making sure you lock the pulleys before cam belt removal. They will only lock one way, and can be done with a 5mm piece of metal bar if you dont want to buy the correct tool from Ford. Now remove the water pump, clean the mating surface on the block, fit the new gasket and then fit the new 1.8 pump, reassemble the cam belt kit. At this stage it is a good idea to swap the oil pump for the one off your 1.8, as this angles differently to the 2.0 one, and allows the use of proper size filters, and means the sway bar isnt in the way of an oil filter change. Again clean the mating surface, apply the gasket, and fit the pump. You will need to remove the seal on the pump so you can get it to fit the crank correctly. Once its on refit a new seal.
Now turn your attention to the other side and remove the 2.0 flywheel and replace it with the 1.8 one. NOTE that if you have used a Mondeo auto you will have replaced its flat wheel with a fly wheel, you will need to fit the correct CPS, and holder. Do this while the fly wheel is OFF. Now remove the sump and the oil pickup pipe and again replace with the 1.8 items making sure you replace the pick up and sump gasket. At this stage I left the oil filter on until the engine was in situe in the car.
Now fit your new 1.8 clutch kit, this can be substituted for a RS Turbo kit dependant on what power you plan to run with the engine, and all the engine brackets and ancillaries from the 1.8 until it looks exactly like the one you took out of your car, you may need to remove some studs from the 2.0 block to fit your bits, if you do not have the correct tool you can use the method of locking 2 nuts together to release it.
Refit your exhaust manifold with its new gasket, and then the power steering/ alternator set up, as these can obscure the exhaust studs. Next move onto the inlet, you may wish to use a 1.8 one instead of your 1.6 as different people claim different things. This is up to you. Change the fuel rail and injectors for the ones off the Mondeo, and fit to the block. By now your engine should be looking more like an engine again.
Change the dowels that the gearbox locates on for the ones from the Escort, as there a slightly different size, fit your clutch and refit your gearbox.
Refit to the car, making sure you refill your coolant, power steering, and oil (nows a good time to change the oil filter too). Refit all the cables and wiring, along with the 2.0 MAF.
The throttle body was a bit more complicated, and required a lot of messing around witht he cast manifold, as you want to use your escorts throttle linkage system on the new throttle body. So I will cover this soon.
If you are using the plastic Escort manifold then you only need to change the plate that the throttle cable attatches to.
Refit the throttle body with the 1.6 parts added, and connect everything back up.
That should be your lot.
Please note this is an updated version of Simon H1s guide, so thanks to him for adding that in the first place. If you think Ive missed something out please pm me to notify me.
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