b_kennedy

Morning everyone. Yet again I call on the knowledge of you guys.

Drove the car twice Thursday morning no problem. Sat outside for a couple of hours. Went to go out again and nothing. It turns over but just won't catch. I plugged in the laptop and no error codes. I did notice that if you stand at the front of the car there seems to be a loud rapid clicking coming from the back left top of the engine. I can't say I'v heard this before. The usual Ecu Egr clicking etc yes but not this.

Am I also right in thinking there is no fuel pump relay or fuses and I can't see them in the manual?

Also noticed on live log the FRP is 4 bar. Is that low or normal for cranking? This is also assuming the software is telling me the right thing.

Thanks in advance

Ben

jamie's

4 bar fuel pressure is as good as none on a common rail,
The ecu wont fire the injectors till around 300 bar
And running pressure will be around 800-1000 bar

Also look for a crank signal(rpm)
And check for crank/cam syncronisation

Csm

When was filter changed as very very common for blocked filters stopping car from starting on the 1.6 tdci/hdi engines

b_kennedy

Thanks Jamie. I'll plug the lappy back on it and have a look. Thanks for the reply.

b_kennedy

Hi CSM. I changed the filter about a month ago. I suppose it could be that it's failed but was running fine 2 hours previous. If it was the pump wouldnt it have at least started briefly with the fuel that's already in the injectors??

Thanks for the reply.

b_kennedy

Video added. Any one have any ideas.
https://youtu.be/UM127Elp3CU

I also noticed the fuel filter was empty. Primed the fuel through but still no start. Could this narrow down to the pump? Does it push through filter or draw it after?

Thanks

DangerousBryan

Will it run on brake cleaner/easy start? If yes then it's definately fuel related.

botters

iTrader: (2)

if the filter was empty its possible that you have fuel leaking back to the tank so i would inspect all fuel lines and connections, see if it will fire on easy start also just to confirm a fuel related fault

b_kennedy

Thanks guys. I havent tried easy start yet but it's on my list. I did read somewhere that the crankcase sensor sometimes doesn't ping a fault code. I got one for Ł21 so thought worth a shot. Tried to change it this morning but it looks like the pulley will have to come off to. Does anyone know the tightening torque for when I replace it? I'm guessing the noise may be that the pump has run dry.

b_kennedy

OK so i replaced the crank sensor. Now i'm getting a RPM read where as I wasn't before. I primed fuel through the filter again and she sounds like she wants to go but just doesn't want to have it. After a few tries I checked the pump again and it had emptied. Primed some more through. Still getting the metallic noise from the pump so I'm still guessing thats cos she's dry. Is there a way I can prime fuel through the pump or to each injector?

Thanks

tony66

iTrader: (7)

i use a cheap vacuum pump to draw the fuel through rail via the return line on the modern diesels-vags/transits all a pain if you dont do it
but make sure you are getting fuel to the filter first-or its a waste of time
fuel rail pressure sensor may be suspect
also if an injector is knackered the rail loses pressure that way also

b_kennedy

Thanks Tony. Where would you draw the fuel through the rail?

I will try that first then maybe look into getting another fuel rail sensor?

Does the fuel go via filter then pump or vice versa?

Thanks

stevos

I would image the fuel will go through the filter first mate so don't get crap in your pump.

jamie's

Connect vac pump to the return line in the bay, then pull fuel thru till theres no air coming thru
Then it should be bled enough to start it up

tony66

iTrader: (7)

make sure filter housing is full of fuel first-power up in tank pump if fitted
or fill it with syringe etc
find return line off rail-this will either go to the filter or back to tank-use this line attach cheapo vacuum pump to it and draw fuel through until no air present- then power up pump again to ensure filter housing full[you will possibly hear the note of the pump change as it gains pressure] then start car

to power pump you can simply power it up independantly using a battery onto is connectors or a workshop tool such as solus etc using the prime function-some cars prime on accessory via the ignition-some only when turning over

b_kennedy

That was my thought as it common sense but we are talking about the Peugeot engine 🙈

b_kennedy

Thanks Jamie. Will try that first thing tomorrow!

b_kennedy

Thanks Tony. Aren't the pumps mechanical on this as it's on the timing belt. Does it have to be a vac or can I use a priming bulb. I'm guessing it will take quite a while to prime it through just wandered if the primer bulb is strong enough. I don't suppose you know where the return line would be on the rail?

Thanks