cosmik

Yesterday I finally finished rebuilding my cossie started it up and it ran prefect went with the first turn off the key but I have come back to it today n it had devolped a knocking from the top and bottom End. I have replaced all the big end shells the little end shells all the cam shells is had new pistons and rings the oil pressure is reading 2.4 bar cold then just over 1 bar when warm I haven't replaced the oil pump but it was working fine before I spotted the car and the old shells hardly had any wear on them. If anybody has any ideas is love to know to save me having to rip the engine out again and starting from scratch. Cheers

dug112y

iTrader: (1)

did you measure everything during the build or just buy n fit? did you strip pump and check it?

tones

iTrader: (1)

Sent yo a pm

cosmik

Just bought n fit everything. Everything fitted snug into the new shells the only thing thay I did notice was there was some side to side pay in the con Rods not sure if that is normal or not and no I didn't strip the oil pump as I thought it was working fine before but reading up on the pressure it should be mine seems a bit down on what bar it should be

ickey818

Have you checked all the pulley bolts are tight? I had one work loose on the auxilary shaft that drives the dizzy and that made a knocking noise.
Worth checking all the pulley bolts are tight before you start stripping the engine again.

DixieTheKid

iTrader: (2)

You replaced the cam shells?

Paul_RS

iTrader: (4)

What are cam shells?

dug112y

iTrader: (1)

How do you know if the clearances are right??
Did you gap the new rings? Oil pressure seems low. What's a cam shell?

DixieTheKid

iTrader: (2)

You replaced the big end and small ends but you didnt replace the mains?

Did you measure the journals and check them for wear? Plasigauge them and check the end float?

Why did you replace the pistons? Are they oversized? Did you have the block honed?

Where did you get the cams shell from? I forgot about those. Ill speak to MAtt Lewis in the morning.

dug112y

iTrader: (1)

Drop the oil out it and see if it looks silvery or if there is debris in it.

Minirotty

Is this Mo?

cosmik

I meant to put mains not cams dont no why I put that... I changed the pistons because I was going to get the valve cut outs put into the originals but I got offered a deal for new pistons with the cut outs already in and a set of grey injectors. yes all the pulleys are tight I have checked them all.

botters

iTrader: (2)

lots of cars have cam shells these days , cossies dont like!

DixieTheKid

iTrader: (2)

What make are the pistons? Did std pistons come out?

Did you measure the journals, plastigauge and check the end float?

cosmik

They are standard mahle pistons that came out and the new ones are mahle pistons aswell also standard. The clyinders gave been honed n no I never checked them... is it going to be the case of engine out again or can I get away with removing the sump to check them?

DixieTheKid

iTrader: (2)

No offence here bud, but pull the engine out and take it to an engine builder.

Have it done once, and have it done properly.

james kiely

iTrader: (5)

cosmik have you used mineral oil to run it in ?

graham c

iTrader: (5)

did you lay the engine on the oil spay pipe as it only just clears the crank and many people have bent this

rstoughy

iTrader: (5)

Have you checked it's timed it up properly?
It's very easy to time it up a tooth out.
On a Cosworth time the bottom pulley to the lug NOT the V.

Stick a ratchet / socket on, turn it over by hand to the marks and check.

I have seen ones a tooth out clipping the valves / pistons when running.
Got to be worth a check before going any further.

Hope it's an easy fix.

LHD220Turbo

iTrader: (4)

I suspect the tolerances are too big, hence the knocking.

costina

iTrader: (1)

and the low oil pressure at idle

costina

iTrader: (1)

This is very true and it will touch the inlet valves if timed up like a pinto which was a common mistake.

L1AM_RS

Hope you get it sorted mate!

As said, you NEED to remove the engine and unfortunately rip it to bits. I'm currently 80% rebuilding my engine. If you need any advice ask.

Before installing the crank finally you should of checked your clearances with plastigauge to ensure you are within tolerance else you will run into issues. You also need to consider ring gaps, end float etc etc! There's alot to get right!

I'd suggest you buy a workshop manual also as it gives you all the relevant torque settings / clearance's etc.







I did weeks of research before i tackled mine.

Good luck!

Rod-Tarry

Agreed. Do you do your own dentistry as well same risk of the unskilled making a hash of it as building an engine with out knowledge of the job in hand.